Hi all I hope some can help me out. I am new to bowhunting, well also bow shooting. Have been hunting with a rifle for a long time, but like to give the bow a try. It sure looks interesting. But, what do I need? A 70 pound bow? PSE or Hoyt? I was told in a shop that I was best off with a PSE/Hoyt bow. I do not know, but I will not go after a moose the first fall, maybe some deer, hogs and so. Arrows and broad heads to, will a 2 blader be a better blade in a light bow? Giving me better penetration v.s a 3 or 4 blader? I am not sure, but I guess a light bow, around 50 pound will be ok to start with and also one who is longer to the axel-axel. Just thinking as a rifle man, longer barrel more easy to start with, lighter recoil makes you a better shooter to. So, a 50 pounder with a long axel to axel, is it a good start? All help is good for me Thanks
Your choices don't have to be limited to PSE and Hoyt. There are several good bow companies out there. My advice would be to shoot as many brands as possible and choose the bow the feels best to you.
My guess is they suggested PSE/Hoyt because they sell PSE and Hoyt. Others that should be looked at are Bowtech, Bear, Martin, Dimond..... the list go on and on. I would suggest visiting several shops and shooting as many bows as you can before deciding. Selecting a bow brand is the ultimate "Chevy vs. ford" argument. Don't let someone else tell you what bow is right for you. You will know yourself when you shoot it. Also, don't worry about broad heads yet. Just get a bow and practice shooting with field points. That's the first step. You can always choose a broad head later. Higher axel to axel bows are more forgiving but more cumbersome in the field and you lose a little speed. Again, shoot both and decide for yourself. In regards to poundage, choose a bow that you can comfortably pull back. You should be easily be able to pull back the bow holding it parallel to the ground. If you have to lift the bow to eye level or higher to pull it back, the bow is too much poundage for you. Most bows today make plenty of KE and speed to kill any big game animal. Don't fall into the obsession with speed. Look at the 50-60lbs bows for starter or if you are a bigger stronger guy try the 60-70. Bows are more efficient at their max poundage rating so you are better off getting a 50-60 lbs bow and shooting at 60lbs than getting a 60-70lbs bow and shooting at 63lbs. Don't be afraid to ask more questions. Knowledgeable group of guys here. Good luck.
I have shot both Hoyt and PSE, but there are numerous other choices out there. I'm not trying to be a jerk, but the shop that said that shouldn't just be giving new archers just two choices. It's probably what he carries. The BEST ADVICE I good give you is to shoot as my bows as you can from different manufacturers and even then try out different bows in each ones line. I would also think about starting out not with junk, but rather a good used bow if you can find one that fits you. That way your not dropping a ton of money on something you have never done. I would also keep in mind that there is nothing saying you have to shoot a 70# bow unless your comfortable with that. I can shoot 70# no problem, but choose to shoot a bow that max's out at 60# instead. It's more fun to shoot, I'm more accurate and it's more then enough for whitetails, bear and elk. Just something for you to think about...Also keep in mind that whatever draw weight you want make sure that's what your bow is maxed out at. A bow will perform better shooting at top end. For EX. if you want to shoot 70# then get a 60-70# bow. If you want to shoot 60# get a 50-60# bow. Most importantly don't feel obligated to a local archery shop. Look to travel around a little bit to try out different bows and get a feel for the knowledge different shops have. Finally, make sure your draw length is measured correctly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! There are alot of people on here who can help you, but keep in mind you need to find a GOOD PRO SHOP AND TRY NUMEROUS BOWS! Take Care and good luck, not to mention Welcome to the world of Archery.
Hello all Thanks for the help and good tips. First, how is the draw length measured right???? I mean, I did go to 2 bow shop`s today, great to try some bows, honestly I was not able to say if a PSE or a low priced one was the right one......maybe its just me, not knowing what to look for. But, I was able to draw a 55 pounder with comfort, (not getting to red in the face.......the seller was a lady....) Guess my draw weight then will be 55-60 pound in a bow. But, the draw length, I was told in one shop I am a 28" and the lady sad I am a 30" draw length.Hmmm? Some tip? She told me, it was better to go for a long draw, rather than a short draw. Why? She was not able to tell me, just saying it was for sure going to help me with my accuracy. So, next hunting question, do I need a silencer? I like to get the bow as close to hunting ready as I can, when shooting it I think that will help me in the field to. Arrow shover? Need one on the bow? Or is the hip one also ok? When looking at the modern bows, the type you have on the bow is the ONLY one I see. Coz its the best? Thanks for helping
Better to go long? Sounds like she doesn't know what she is talking about to me. It will not help with your accuracy. If your draw is to long then you will have trouble with your anchor point being consistent. I had a similar experience starting out. The first bow I bought had a draw length to long for me. After a year of reading and learning about bow stuff I realized I was overdrawn. Once I got a bow that was the correct draw length my accuracy increased. This link here will help you get an idea what your draw length will be close to and you can get it nailed down exactly in a knowledgeable shop. By silencer do you mean stabilizer? If so I would recommend one personally especially starting out along with a wrist sling. Outside of sound dampening and vibration help, the stabilizer will help you with the follow through on your shot and keep weight out in front of the bow. Now if by silencer you mean string leeches, then those are not as important in my opinion. They will have some pros and cons. Also in this area are limb savers that I would recommend. Now by arrow shover I am assuming you mean quiver. I think the quiver mounted onto the bow is best for a hunting situation. However you will want to get one that can be removed once you get on stand. Transporting the arrows on the bow are easier and quieter then having them bang around on your hip while walking in the woods. The reason you'll want to remove the quiver when shooting however is because the added weight can cause you to lean the bow one way or the other. Now it is possible to shoot correctly and with proper form with a quiver mounted on the bow, the key is just to practice which ever way you decide to do it.
Hello and welcome! I sent you a personal message on a site to look at that is very helpful. Message link top right of page by your user name. Good luck and now you are hooked you will be hooked for life.
Welcome... As a fairly new bow hunter myself, suggest you become a friend of google and the search function here. I took about a month to research what I wanted and am pretty happy with what I have. I sunk about a grand into my bow all told - and am pretty happy with it. I will upgrade as I go, but once again I learn as I spend more time reading. Good luck, and don't be afraid to ask questions, I have learned a ton just lurking here and have actually linked up and hunted and scouted with one member. Lots of great folks here. Sean
Thanks all Thanks for the info and good tips. I know understand a LOT more about bow and bow shooting. Hope I can get around and get what I need for a bow hunting trip to the US in the late fall, a dream. Will lett you know how it goes All help is great for me
It is NOT better to go long with your draw length like mentioned above!!! It sounds like this PERSON HAS NO IDEA OF WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT! The people on this thread odviously have more knowledge then the person you talked to. Draw length needs to be as close to exact as possible if not a hair shorter. By decreasing my draw length just a little my shooting changed for the better dramaticaly. You really need to find a proshop that KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT! It doesn't do any good to go around trying out bows that do not have the right draw length. You will NEVER get a propper feel for the bow like this.
Thanks for the reply Well, I did use the link I got here and got some good help. My draw length is 28". So with that in mind I did go to the local range today, and did try some bows, with 28" draw. WOW, what a different. Well, I am as far from an expert one can be, but the bows did feel easier to pull back and hold/aim with. So, now I know what length to look for, and also the weight, a max of 60 pounds it is. Next week I will go to another pro shop, and look at some bows. Thanks all
That's good to hear. Be sure to post any more questions you may have. There is a lot of knowledge on this site. Good luck!
