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Wood post sealer/protector

Discussion in 'The Water Cooler' started by BJE80, Jun 21, 2012.

  1. BJE80

    BJE80 Legendary Woodsman

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    So I have some used treated telephone poles that I plan on using to build a meat pole and gate posts. Before I build them I would like to re-treat the poles to make them last longer.

    What would you use? Creosote used to be the best but you can't buy it anymore. I was looking at asphalt fence paint but it seems you either love it or hate it. Mixed reviews.

    Some people even suggest motor oil or diesel. Not sure about that. Doesn't sound like a good idea to me.

    Thanks.

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  2. USFAN51473

    USFAN51473 Weekend Warrior

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    Wood stain?
     
  3. BJE80

    BJE80 Legendary Woodsman

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    I don't think stain is a long term sealer like creosote is. There has to be something out there better. At least I would think so.

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  4. Rancid Crabtree

    Rancid Crabtree Die Hard Bowhunter

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    How about a saturation with Thompson’s water seal and after that dries, apply a heavy coat of roofing tar (black asphalt)

    I’ve used minwax wood hardener on knife handles. It is a plasticizer. A few coats of that and then roofing tar would work.

    Another idea would be to use Lifetime ™ wood treatment and then roofing tar.
     
  5. BJE80

    BJE80 Legendary Woodsman

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    Rancid do you know anything about asphalt fence paint?

    http://www.tractorsupply.com/fence-...ack-beauty-asphalt-fence-paint-5-gal--3414177



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  6. Dan

    Dan Senior Member

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    I was going to suggest roofing tar as well.
     
  7. BJE80

    BJE80 Legendary Woodsman

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    Can I just go over the top with the tar or do I need to use tomsons first?

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  8. Rancid Crabtree

    Rancid Crabtree Die Hard Bowhunter

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    I looked it up at this link

    http://www.gardner-gibson.com/linedetails.aspx?id=136

    But because its topical I would think thompsons water seal or minwax wood hardener or even tung oil applied first and allowed to soak into the fibers would be a good idea. All are easy to get and relatively inexpensive.

    My tipi poles are coated in tung oil and have been on the ground for about a decade. Its a great product. Adding roof tar would really prolong the life but it would look really bad on tipi poles. My tipi poles are not treated woof. They are just pine.
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2012
  9. BJE80

    BJE80 Legendary Woodsman

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    So perhaps tung oil first. Then let dry. Then a coat of roofing tar might be the best way?

    Sounds like a he'll of a good sealer. He'll with the poles already being treated maybe the would outlive me? Ha
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  10. Dan

    Dan Senior Member

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    Rancid thinks you should I don't know that it will matter a whole lot since they were soaked in creosote.
     
  11. Rancid Crabtree

    Rancid Crabtree Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Tung oil and roofing tar in conjunction with the posts already being pressure treated will protect them for a very very long time. As far as that duration exceeding your life span, I cant speak to your durability and longevity without a complete battery of tests and a good working knowledge of your family history. (let alone factoring in that you could get hit by a bus tomorrow which would hamper your desire to finish the project).

    As to your family’s medical history, it reminds me that I always get confused by the words

    Genealogist and Gynecologist. I know one of them looks up a woman’s ……………………………………………………………. Family history and descendants and the other is a doctor dealing with lady parts but I digress. I would apply the tung oil above the expected snow line to keep them from being exposed to water that would seep its way down into the post behind the treatment you applied for the under ground portion.
     
  12. davidmil

    davidmil Grizzled Veteran

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    When they initially treat those poles they do it under pressure to force the preservatives deep into the wood. I wouldn't worry too much about deep sealing. Just coat it up with something and let it be. Hell, they'll probably outlive you as the are now. That preservative they use is not really human friendly. You don't want to be breathing the sawdust if you're cutting and all that.
     
  13. BJE80

    BJE80 Legendary Woodsman

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    Something like this?

    [​IMG]

    Or

    [​IMG]

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  14. Rancid Crabtree

    Rancid Crabtree Die Hard Bowhunter

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    exactamundo. If it can seal concrete foundations from water, it should work for you.
     
  15. BJE80

    BJE80 Legendary Woodsman

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    The green labelled one right?

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  16. Rancid Crabtree

    Rancid Crabtree Die Hard Bowhunter

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    The negro one. LOL

    Either will work and my guess is both are about $10 a gallon.
     
  17. Finch

    Finch Grizzled Veteran

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    When I built my shed, I applied roofing tar to the 6x6s that support the shed. Hindsight, it was a waste of time. The posts cracked and the tar isn't doing a thing for that.

    There's also debate whether a post will last longer in concrete or just stuck into the ground. Do some reading...you'll pull your hair out. When I built my fence last summer, I put the corner and gate posts in concrete and backfilled the in-line posts with crusher run (gravel) and dirt. They are sturdy as hell. Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2012
  18. brucelanthier

    brucelanthier Grizzled Veteran

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    I would vote for concrete also. I have a skinning/butchering gambrel with the pressure treated post in concrete and it has been good for quite a few years now. The dog pen posts (PT) are also in concrete, 10+ years, and all 26 are still sturdy as they day they were put in. Prior to putting the posts in the hole I put in a few rocks, approx 4 inches, first. It is supposed to help keep the posts from rotting. Works for me.
     
  19. BJE80

    BJE80 Legendary Woodsman

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    The colmuns are getting concreted in. No question about that.

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  20. Finch

    Finch Grizzled Veteran

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    Bruce...good point about the post sitting on rocks/gravel. I did that as well.

    Don't most posts PT or not usually rot at the base of the ground anyway? I believe so.
     

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