I have a 27-28 inch draw length an my arrows stick out past my rest two inches or so. I hunted this way last year and killed two deer no problem and was wondering why would i cut them down? I have no problems with accuracy or speed so it seems pointless but im ignorant in these things so just wondering if there is a solid reason to do it. any input would be helpfull thanks.
You cut them down to a certain length to stiffen your spine a weak spine can flex to much an snap sending part of the arrow through your hand or arm
My very 1st deer I ever shot was with a Rage. As I was drawing back, I caught a blade on a branch and it came loose. While at full draw, I was able to push the blade back into position with my bow hand. Wouldn't have killed that doe with a full length arrow.
Nice, Fitz:D in all seriousness, an arrow can be shot full length assuming spine has been matched properly. Once you start talking spine, FOC, speed, finished arrow weight, etc, that's when cutting becomes necessary. Not to mention on some arrows, runout occurs, and you will get the tightness tolerances trimming off the front and the back to start. Tofx can expand upon that more hopefully.
Few of the benifits of an arrow cut specifically for your DL would be less surface area on the arrow which may help arrow drift from cross wind, knock some grains off your arrow which will allow you to pick up some speed, not triming may affect your spine selecton too... For example in your case, depending on what arrow you shoot and your exact draw length - you may be able to trim 4-5 inches off the shaft - that much difference can start to affect your whole shaft/spine selection...
so the extra couple inches will cause more flex in the arrow therefore making it more likly to shater/go into my arm?
Yes. The reason being spine is measured at 28" on bare shaft once you add inserts broadhead an every it's actually weakened it an a longer shaft weakens it more. For example a shaft with a 400 at 28" actually becomes more like 425 spine when broadhead an everything is add so add a couple inches put it more towards a 500 spine making it more flexible an more like to break
There are basically 2 flex points on an arrow shaft. They are called nodes and they are located near each end of the shaft IMO,we want the rest to be located very close to the front node without being behind it. An arrow sticking way out past the rest will have a little more recovery to do if there is a problem during the shot. Basically making it less forgiving. However, this is splitting the finest hairs of the nether regions. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
I have a 26" draw and my arrows are cut to 29". I need 'em to be long in order to noodle up the spine enough. On the upside I can shoot snaro bird points and gobbler guillotines without needing different shafts. :D
You do know that they make 600 spine arrows and even higher if needed right?:D Of course you would have to switch arrows to shoot quillotines. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
I use software called OnTarget, software for Archers and it gives me a lot of information. Arrow length and spine are spelled out clearly so you can determine exactly what would be needed length for proper spine. My arrows are about 1" longer than my draw and are within range of proper spine. remember slight difference from target points to broadheads. Also, if the shafts are long and weak in spine you can always add some weight to the nock end of the arrow to stiffen the spine. But it is easier to cut them to the proper length.
I did try lighter spined arrows but the quality seemed to be lacking. Plus, I had a bunch of these shafts from when I was shooting higher poundage. (and I like to see the weird looks I get at the shoots) heh.
Fyi, the easton axis 600 is an excellent shaft. Add the 75gr (or 50 gr)brass inserts and you have an awesome short draw, low poundage shaft. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
Need an arrow saw. They aren't exactly cheap. I have seen people do it with hacksaw and small table saws before but an arrow saw is best. Probably need to find a local pro shop and have them cut them down for you. Another option is hunters friend.com. They cut arrows to length and do everything to the arrow you need. Ship them out and you have ready to shoot arrows about 10 days after ordering them.
Let a Archery shop cut them or you'll have to buy a arrow cutting machine. If you don't have them perfectly perpendicular to the shaft it can reek havoc with your arrow flight.
Your basic idea is right on, but the physics involved are a little off. Cutting the arrow to proper length won't change the position of the node in relation to the rest DIRECTLY. Rather, it will change the position of both nodes in relation to each other. A shorter arrow will shift both nodes closer to its center of balance by exactly the same amount. The change in node/rest orientation is pretty slight. Also, those nodes don't really exist until energy is transferred to the shaft. So if you're shooting out of alignment vertically or horizontally, you're applying force in a way that will shift those nodes into unpredictable positions. Essentially, the node on a perfectly released arrow will be just in front of the rest, while releasing that same arrow from a misaligned draw could result in that node being almost anywhere on the shaft. If your release is bad enough, you could theoretically move that node forward of the point of the arrow and cause the shaft to only flex at one point. Sent from my HTCEVOV4G using Tapatalk 2
Boy I bet the op didn't expect such in depth information lol the info given here probably went over 90% of the viewers heads. Bad thing is I understood what ya'll were talking about lol
