I am not a procrastinator and that is why I am getting started now. There is no "off-season" for bow hunting for me (yet). I obviously didn't want to screw with it during the hunting season but now I have 9 months to get it figured out.
LOL absolutely! after hunting season is "testing season", time to check out new stuff (techniques, theories, equipment).
Going back to quality. Are the Trophy Ridge WB's typically a decent one or cheaper one? Here is mine.
I'm not a WB fan, and I hardly ever paper tune. I have setup several WB rests for customers and never had a problem tuning them, walk back, bare shaft, & broadhead. If that's the rest you want you should have No problems tuning it as long as everything else is what it should be, arrow spine, foc, etc. One other thing I might add as far as fletchings are concerned Blazers are a match made in heaven for a WB. Dan
Yep, that's the one I was afraid you have. No index marks on it for reference when you start moving things and in order to move up/down you also have to reorient the disk to be parallel with the string which usually causes you to mess up the in/out. This is the easier one to work with: http://www.lancasterarchery.com/product_info.php?cPath=40_117&products_id=6734
IF I was going to buy a new rest. Is there one out there that provides full containment and follows my K.I.S.S. attitude other than the WB? The only one I know of is the Octane Hostage Pro but I have read too many issues with the bristles wearing out. I might take a look at getting the WB with adjustments because this is going to hard enough without having equipment that makes it harder yet.
Nope. I paper tune with FP's. What I've found is.....bare shaft tuning gets me "close". Paper tuning with FP's gets me dead nuts. If I screw on BH's after only bare shaft tuning, again.....I'm "close". After paper tuning, I can screw on BH's and my POI will be the same with either tip.
Interesting. Is that primarily because you shoot trad or did that apply when you shot compound as well? In your case why bare shaft tune at all? I would think troubleshooting would be easier PT because you have the rip to help tell the story.
Due to the inherent design of the compound bow....I never learned to "properly" tune (bow/arrow marriage) until I started shooting trad.. Center shot designs allow archers to utilize a wider range of arrow spines. I didn't have too many folks in which to draw info. from (shooting trad.). I went through a LOT of trial/error in learning what I have. I'll also say that shooting trad. makes you learn something you might not have to learn, shooting a compound.......the importance of tuning the ARROW (or marrying it to your bow). I see a lot of compound archers who feel that "tuning" ONLY involves bow adjustments (and, they're not entirely wrong). I also see a lot of compound archers who are either oblivious or unwilling to address arrow tuning. An example of this would be....an archer who chooses his tip weight and arrow length.....before starting to tune......by someone who is unwilling to adjust draw weight. I fit into that category when I shot a compound. Full disclosure. And...to answer the BS tuning question....I'm sure there are trad archers who COULD "only" PT. But, bare shaft tuning is quick. Really quick.
Well I went back to the bow shop tonight knowing that the very helpful and knowledgeable guy that helped me buy the bow was working. I told him the same thing and he said no problem we can help you tune your bow. So there you go. Talk to the a different person at the same shop and get a different answer and in this case the correct answer came second. I intend to only work with this guy from now on going as far to ask him what his normal schedule is. I ordered a 1/2 dozen 350 maxima hunter arrows and are going to wait until the ATA show is over and the new sights and rests come in and then make some decisions.