Who has sucessfully paper tuned a bow with a Whisker Bisket?

I'll pay you $5 shaft for every one you return, intact. You pay me $5 for every one that comes back "short".

Deal????....lol

 

Okay so I am reading the Easton tuning guide and have a couple of comments.

1. It talks about finding the limb centers with tape to properly center the arrow. I don't REMEMBER my bow shop doing this when I bought the bow over a year ago. Maybe it's just poor memory. Is that something that all bow shops do? I would not think they could do that in advance until the buyer chooses and installs a sight correct?
2. You guys are talking about bare shafting and in the guide, it lists the applications as RF (Recurve-Finger release) and CF (Compound-finger release). It does not give my situation of CR (Compound-mechanical release). Is this just an oversight on their part or is there something to this? I can't see how this would matter. Either the arrow is flying true or it is not.
3. I gotta admit, this is scary to start loosening stuff to check and set. If I am not able to get it set back I would have to walk into the bow shop with my tail between my legs looking like an idiot. This is defiantly on the realm of my skill level at this point. I don't know any other bow hunters that know anything about Tuning either otherwise i would of exhausted that long ago.

 

The hardest part about working on your own equipment is the fear factor :D . Write things down and don't make too many changes at once. Something like: back out limb bolts 1 turn then see how things shoot. then put the limb bolts back. Move the rest left/right a specified amount, see how things shoot, then move the rest back. You can also take close pictures of where the rest is right now and then move it all around while see how the arrow reacts and then put it back where it was.

Make one change at a time, see what it does, then keep it or put it back. Write down all permanent changes to help you keep track.

after you do it enough, and I would do it a lot just to learn, then you won't have to write things down and it will make a whole lot more sense than it does right now.:D

 

1. The limb center has nothing to do with the sight and most people can eyeball it. I have a laser center guage to do it for me but I quit using it after it showed me how good I was at just setting it by eye. The Mathews bows have it down the center of the grip for you.

2. I found that guide to be lacking on the bare shaft tuning section. I think it even references the way the arrows are sticking in the target and I find that causes as many headaches as papertuning. Pay attention to where the groups land in relation to one another and move your rest so that you're moving the fletched shafts toward the unfletched or correct the arrow for the spine change necessary.

3. It's all part of the learning process. You're on the steep side of the curve and you'll get a few bruises along the way but in the end you'll be better for it and more satisfied with your accomplishments and successes since they'll be your own. Careful of your buddies, you're going to be the one they're coming to soon...

 

the easton tuning guide is a good guide but don't think of it as a detailed instruction manual. They try to give you a broad set of tools to work on a very wide variety of bows and arrows.

 

If you've got the cheap WB, one of the first things you're going to learn is why the more expensive one is worth the extra money!

 

So much truth in that, not only for WB's but for most things archery and beyond.

 

I think I remember someone on here making that same reference to hookers last week...

 

I ment rest not sight. So I probably can assume that is correct then.

I don't even know if I have a cheap one or not to be honest. I bought it part of my package with the bow so I have no idea how much I paid for it. Any idea how to check that?

 

Now the question comes in. Let's say I have my bare shafts and fletched arrows grouping well. Let's say I put my BH's on. How do I know that they are flying true?

 

Well....I think you know the answer. But remember....you don't have to shoot at the same spot to test "grouping".

 

You don't need the rest on there to determine the centerline of the bow but the point is to set the rest on the centerline, so it's kind of pointless not to.

If it doesn't have reference points on it for making adjustments it makes life tougher when moving it around. I try to get all my adjustable accessories with micro-drives on them but you don't see them on rests too much anymore. (tear, sniff)

 

Yeah I don't think that would be a good idea hey? :D

But seriously, does this ever occur (bareshaft tuning OK and BH's don't group well)? Assuming everything else is equal i.e. true running BH, etc.

What do you do if this does occur?

 

I've yet to have bareshafts and fletched shafts impacting to the same point at 30 yards and not have broadheads impact to that same point. Just make sure you pull the others before shooting the broadheads!

 

I will shoot the BH and then the field tip. Usually, the other way around gets expensive LOL :D

 

If the Easton guide is not a comprehensive guide then is there one available that is? I need it as basic and step by step as possible because quite frankly, I'm (can be) stupid!!

 

This is WHY I paper tune.

Shooting trad......bare shaft tuning is the gold std. When I get to this point......I paper tune for optimal tune. Honestly, bare shaft tuning (only) is "good enough" for targets. When I need to get more precise (i.e. when I screw on BH's), I paper tune.

 

There can't really be a comprhensive guide because it would have to reflect your exact setup. Same bow, same arrow, same DW, same DL, etc. Experiment, you have all offseason.

 

Just so I am understanding you correct. You bare shaft tune first, then screw your BH on and then Paper tune? I realize your equipment (being trad) is much different than mine but just curious.

 

Paper tune, walk back tune, group tune, bareshaft tune, BH tune. A lot of that tuning is redundant but I like shooting