Getting new broadheads. I am wondering what kind/grain I should get. I am shooting 48lbs 28" draw length. I have Beman ICS Hunter 400 arrows. I am thinking 75 grain muzzy mx-3. I think I should wait on the expandables till I get to at least 55lb pull. Any help is appreciated.
Your going against the grain as to what order you should select your equipment IMO. First select what BH and what grain tip you want to use. Then select the arrow type and approximate spined arrow that is appropriate for your DL and ~what DW you want to use. Then you can go through the fine tuning process to find that perfect match between your arrow and bow. If your looking to do it the way you suggested I would get a whole bunch of different weight field points and bare shaft tune to determine what weight head gets you close. Good luck.
well I was right on the line between the 500s which i previosly had. I got my draw length moved up to 28 so I had to get new arrows. The Bowtech said 400s. Im just asking, what would be a good grain/recomended broadhead?
A .400 spine is probably on the stiff side for 48# pull and I'm guessing your arrows are 28 inches. There are probably plastic fletches also which will have small but stiffening effect. You may be able to get away with a 100 grain. You can buy a couple of 125 grain and a couple 100 grain field tips and see how the bow and arrow tunes with the 125's first.
So yall dont recommend a 75 grain? If got rage 40ke, but I was thinking that since my arrow is a little heavy then I should get a little lighter broadhead. Do yall think there will be a big speed difference in the 75 and 100 grain broadhead?
For low draw weight you want the heavier arrow but, more important, you want the arrow to tune with the bow. At 48#'s speed is not part of the equation.
What do you mean by tune with the bow? My sights are reset, and the arrows fly good to me. I mean I know my bow isnt as fast as yours but you still need some speed to kill a deer. Im just asking what grain broadhead would be good with my arrows and bow.
It is important you read and understand if you want to do this right. It's not as simple as put the right head weight on. You still will need to shoot and then adjust either your arrow length, DW or tip weight to achieve the correct dynamic spine. It is especially critical you have a well tuned arrow at a low draw weight so you use every ouch of force your bow is capable of putting out. After you read the Easton tuning guide and you still have questions please feel free to ask more questions.
I have been shooting alot lately and have noticed alot of my shots going left so should i just keep moving my sight? Im getting good groupings though. I realize that the arrows I have are a little heavy for my bow but 2 bowtechs from 2 different places recomended them. Im just trying to figure out what broadhead weight to use, either a muzzy mx-3 75 grain or the rage 40ke. Which one would be more ideal? I already have the rage, but ive heard alot of things about them not opening. Could I still use these even at 48 lbs? One bowtech said that it would be fine, it would just break the O-Ring. And I realize how to broadhead tune a bow.
It sounds like your arrows are reacting rather stiff (shooting left) but there is no way of knowing unless you attempt to tune your bow. Neither and certainly not the mechanical.
I recommend finding out what tip weight you actually need by tuning your bow and arrow. Once you know which tip weight you can use then it is just a matter of choosing as there are many good options and none of them would be mechanicals at your DW.
Okay I'll try and lay this out without making this post too long. But it appears you still did not read the complete Easton tuning guide. I'll give you a start. You still need to read it though. You don't know if your shooting left is caused by your rest not being centered or if you dynamic spine (arrow stiffness) is the culprit. So again, if you want to keep the same arrows as you have now then you should buy several different weight tip FP's. Then I would Paper tune to start (see Easton tuning guide for instructions or find a good bow shop to help you). You will need to put different weight heads on until your paper tear is the closest you can get it. The paper tuning will also check your nock point. You should verify that your nock point is perfect and then fine tune your spine. If your arrow is acting too weak then you need to use a lighter tip. If you arrow is acting stiff, you need to use a heavier tip. Once you select the tip that gets you close as possible then you can either adjust DW or arrow length (as long as they don't get too short) to fine tune the dynamic spine until you get bullet holes. Some people do adjust their rest a little bit to fine tune but that is likely putting a band aid on the real problem. If you have to move your rest more than a 1/8" than it's a band-aid. Again, the Easton tuning guide shows it really well what different tears tell you. Edit: Shooting left could be caused by clearance issues as well. Lot's of things to check so that is why you need to make sure you are tuned to properly diagnose this. That is why it's easier to pick the head you want to use and the weight and then build your arrow back from there. If you get your arrow shooting "bullet holes" through paper you know you are pretty close. There are further tuning steps that are recommended but let's not worry about that yet. Let's get you paper tuned first. Is this becoming somewhat clear?
