For those of you whom have well water. What is your cut in/cut out pressure range on your tank switch? I'm trying to do a little troubleshooting with a pressure issue I'm having, and I'm just trying to get an idea of what "most" people are set to for their tank pressure cut in/cut off's.
I'm pretty sure mine is 30-50 psi. Mine is a pretty long run from well to building, I vaguely remember having it at 20-40 and increasing it (not possitive though)
I have mine set at 40 psi. The pressure tank is at 60 psi and when it gets down to 40 the pump kicks on.
I have a constant pressure set up. The range of the pump is from 40 - 100 PSI. Since I'm running it to a travel trailer, I keep it at 60 PSI and run it through a pressure reducer of 55 PSI. That's the pressure needed to make life comfortable in the trailer when all you have is 1/2" Pex tubing through out. I have a pressure gauge to help with troubleshooting as well.
30/50, at least that the last switch put in our older well. Can't remember what the new one is at, but it's close.
Pressure inconsistencies in the house. Pump doesn't seem to build pressure at times, and others, it doesn't seem to build as fast. I was going to try and adjust the cut in/out pressure, but I may just replace the switch all together first.
Hopefully it's just the switch but it actually sounds like the pump itself. The switch just turns the pump on and off, it don't control the speed of building pressure. Either that or you got sediment in your line.
I worded that incorrectly. The switch kicks on a 30psi, and shuts off at 50, but I'm not sure it's consistently or accurately doing so. I tested it the other day with a faucet in the next room to the pump, and it worked, but lately, the gauge seems to be sitting down toward the 30psi mark, and not INDICATING the pressure building. Then again, if I'm experiencing actual pressure loss, you could be right.
Our switch went bad. In our case it would not kick on. The pressure would drop, so I'd have to walk down to the pump house and give it the "Fonzie" tap. AYEEEEE!! Then it would run fine for a month, week, or day. Finally had it replaced this August. Been working fine since.
I agree. The switch just kicks the pump on and off. Shouldn't have anything to do with the pressure functioning. Maybe sediment at the faucet head itself? Take them apart and check it out. I chased a similar problem around forever once. Come to find out there was a small leak in the 90 degree elbow at the top of the well casing where it fed to the holding tank. My well has a cap on it and buried. It was the last place I thought to look. I took the lid off and water gushing everywhere. Explained the screwed up pressure at the faucets. Put a new 90 on and good to go.
Sediment filter is good on both the tank itself as well as the faucets. I'll have to check under the cap, too, I never thought of looking there. Were you experiencing a consistent drop in pressure, or were you getting periods of high/low at them? I'm getting the latter, but not as a result of demand (i.e. the pressure dropping down to 30, and waiting for the buildup back to 50).
If you have a leak big enough to affect pressure then I would think that you would notice air in your line. You would definitely hear that when the water is running. Could be wrong though, been known to happen....
Check out your pressure tank. If your tank is loosing air and has a bad seal in the bladder it would cause your pump to kick on and off and have pressure changes. Drain all the air out of the pressure tank and fill back up with 50-60 psi or what ever you want. Watch it for a week or two and see if it holds the pressure. If not, you may need a new pressure tank or just milk it out like i do and fill it with air once a month or so.
