Does the rest move up or down depending on the tear, or not at all? I'll give it a shot again tomorrow. I considered the illusion idea, but there was that one arrow that seemed perfect. Thanks for the help. I appreciate it.
It is usually a safe bet to move the rest up or down,according to a tear. BUT there are cases where you get a false reading there as well. Improperly timed fallaway. Nock too high causing arrow to slam into rest but kicking up through paper.That can be a tuning nightmare. I have a vice I put a bow in .Mounted by the stabilizer hole. I adjust the string so it is level vertically(perpendicular to earth)I check the string with a level and then I put a level on an arrow and run it through the center to just below the berger hole.(mounting hole for rest). I adjust a hybrid cam or 2 cam system dead level and 1 cam systems with a slight nock high setting.This is where I tie my nock in. This has served me well for years. Broadheads can tell you alot about your tune.
Well, its safe to say that the clearance isn't an issue anymore. Now its more of a tuning problem. This is all new to me, but I feel its essential to learn and to become proficient at properly tuning my bow. The knock is not too high. I can tell by looking at it. If anything it needs to be higher. I'm gonna give it hell tomorrow and get everything figured out.
I've been at work for the past 33 hours with 15 to go, so I haven't had a chance to do anything. Tomorrow during the day I plan to do the rest of the tuning, as well as some long range shooting if the tuning goes well. Then it's back to work tomorrow night.
What is your field point weight? I can't shoot a 340 spine arrow with a 125 tip. It will cause just the ever so slightest of cable contact. On a side note, glad you're posting this. It's good help to us all.
That should never cause contact with a cable. You have some tuning issues going on.Going from 100 grain to 125 grain should never weaken a shaft to that degree.
Ok, so I just shot for a bit. I readjusted my center shot. I found that I had it way too far out to the left. For whatever reason, it was shooting well at close range there, but the arrow flight was way off. I moved it back to the setting it was when I left the bow shop. After doing that I noticed the felt on the rest was starting to fray. Ah ha! My vanes are hitting my rest. BUT, the issue started altogether from a vane contact issue. I'm going to adjust the timing on the rest so that it doesn't rise until the last inch or so of my draw. If that doesn't fix the problem then I think I'm going to have to stop using 2" vanes and go back to 4" vanes for the lower profile.
I tried to adjust the timing of the rest's drop. Didn't work. It was already timed to be as delayed of a rise as possible. I found 2 old arrows that had 4" vanes and shot those and they fly much better, but still seemed to be making contact with the rest, as the felt appears pulled up where the vanes pass. I'm hoping with some fine tuning and a new set of vanes I can correct this problem because I truly like the design of the QAD rest. I need to get the new arrows before I do that, though.
Make sure the pull cord is tied in a few inches low. Coming up in the last 1/2"-1" (sounds like you did that) Make sure the arrow is level for a hybrid or 2 cam bow and slightly higher on a 1 cam. If that doesn't fix it, change the launcher arm to the ts1 arm. They come with the rest. Your shop should have them laying around. Also, make sure the cams are timed correctly. This can screw with the nock travel and cause the arrow to slam into the rest. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
I just switched out the launcher to the TL1. I think it may have helped. The 4" vaned arrows are flying pretty well, but the 2" vanes still hit significantly. I will be able to get a better read on the 4" vanes when I replace the felt on the launcher. There are fletching marks on the fork of the launcher from shooting the 2" vanes, but its to the point where I can't tell if the 4" vanes are making new marks or not. The flight appears to be better with the 4" vanes, however.
