Vanes Hitting Cable

I've noticed my vanes are hitting my downward moving cable. The center shot is on and I can twist the knock so they don't make contact, but I feel like there shouldn't be an issue. I am using a NAP Apache currently, and the arrow shelf hangs about 1/8-1/4" into the rest window. This does not affect flight but maybe I should get a rest that better fits my bow?

 

How do you know centershot is set?

 

I had the bow shop tune it. He was the one that made me aware of the issue.

 

Check centershot yourself. Very simple. Draw a plumb line on your target with a carpenter level. Once you have your perfectly vertical line,stand at about 3 feet and shoot arrow at line. Adjust sight until arrow impacts line. Then move back to a comfortable distance. Further the better but 20 will work. Shoot arrow at line and adjust REST to bring arrow to line. Repeat process until you hit line at both distances.

That will give you the true centershot.

Of course eliminate all contact before doing this. Turn fletch if necessary.

Once you know you have the correct centershot,then you will be able to tell if you truly have clearance issues.

 

I use to have a Mission voyager and it did the same thing. I would have to twist my nock to keep it from hitting. I think that its a flaw in the manufacturing. I have since switched to PSE and they have an adjustable bar that allows you to adjust until you get clearance.

 

Twisting the know will not affect your arrow flight especially with a drop away rest but if your rest does not fit your bow perfectly get a new one. my pholosophy is to buy the absuluote best gear and accersories you can afford when it comes to archery cuase i know i dont want any variables i have to over come when i have a nice shooter infront of me.

 

I have upgraded to a QAD Ultra Rest LD. My problem now is occurring during bare shaft tuning. My center shot is on and I have gotten the bare shafted arrows to hit dead-on, however, they hit at an angle to the target. The point hits about 4-6 inches to the right of the knock. Again, the point hits where I want it to every time, but it is obvious the arrow is fishtailing during flight. How do I correct this? If my center shot is on, it should be something other than the rest, right?

 

Bareshaft tuning is as much a testiment to how well the archer releases an arrow without ANY induced torque,either by the bow hand or face as anything. If the point is hitting with the fletched shaft and your broadheads are with the field points,then I would think you are pretty well tuned.

Are you seeing a tear in paper with your fletched shafts?

 

I am setting up a paper tuning rig as I type. I will update soon. Thanks.

 

That's talent.

 

LOL,I do good to type at all. I only use 2 fingers and it takes all the concentration I have.

I don't think I could set up a paper tuner and type with my search and peck method.

 

Alright, so here's what I did.

First off, I had the bow shop install the rest. He basically only does a rough-cut job at tuning. He eyed it, shot through paper, holes looked good and that was that. Yesterday I was hitting way off so I decided to try to tune today.

1. I adjusted the center shot following the instructions above. I used a 6 oz. fishing sinker with a string for the vertical line. First I adjusted the sight, following the arrow with the pin when adjusting. Then moved back to 20 yards and moved the rest in the opposite direction of where the arrows hit.

2. I then shot bare shafts and fletched arrows at 20 yards. The bare shafts were hitting right of the fletched arrows so I moved the rest a tiny bit to the left. This fixed the problem and my bare shafts were hitting in the correct spot, but at an angle.

3. I logged onto bowhunting.com and posted the latter question.

4. I changed my form slightly and my bare shafts hit straight and true.

5. I paper tuned. My tears were a tad bit high. I raised rest and this seemed to fix it.

6. I shot fletched field points and bare shafts at 20 yards. The field points did not fly consistantly. They hit dead center, but kind of tailed a bit getting there. Meanwhile, my bare shafts still flew perfectly.

7. I shot from 30 yards. Again, I was driving tacks, but the arrow flight looked bad.

8. I adjusted the center shot again. At this point it was just about too dark to shoot. Although, my center shot is now realigned perfectly.

My problem lies in that my fletched arrows are flying poorly. They're hitting the right spot, but look ugly getting there. I think it may be because I raised the height of the rest. I'll also add that of my 3 fletched arrows, 1 had flawless flight almost every time. Could this be strictly an arrow issue?

 

One is flying true,you probably have contact issue with the others. Poorly timed rest? Shoot the unfletched shaft through the paper at a couple feet.Then compare it to the flecthed.

Once you have set centershot with the french tune method,DON'T move it to adjust bareshafts. Adjust the split yoke. If hitting left,put a half twist in the right yoke and take a half twist out of the left side. Repeat until they are together. Opposite if hitting right with bare shafts.

Repeat french tune once you have the 2 together.

If there is no contact or torque issues,you should have clean flecthed flight even if you can't get clean bareshaft flight.

 

Oh,what arrows are you using?

 

The arrows are Easton Carbon Raider Platinum.
What is the split yoke?

 

The split cable on the top of your bow.


What spine arrow are you shooting?

 

I wanna say 340? The shaft says 65-80.
I don't have a bow press to mess with the yoke. I'm hoping its not an issue with that.

 

Then I wouldn't mess with the bare shaft.

Eliminate contact first and foremost. Set centershot best you can and then go to broadhead tuning. You should be ready to hunt at this point. Unless you are getting a really bad arrow flight,then you may need some fine tuning of either your bow or your form.

I am not familiar with that shaft but I would also assume 340 . I don't usually like "cheap" shafts,Easton usually makes good low end shaft. Low end shafts have a tendancy to kick,even when they shouldn't but there again,not familiar with that one.

 

Here is a picture of the tears I've been getting.

 

Nothing wrong with that. Will it do that at 3',6'and 9'. THat is good provided centershot is correct. Don't move rest to get a good tear.


What happens sometimes to a shooter is they THINK the arrow is kicking when it really is an optical illusin. They see the fletching in the sunlight and it appears to be kicking when in fact,it isn't. OR,the wind is blowing and they see the kick caused by the wind.