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update on my arrow tuning problem....

Discussion in 'Bowhunting Talk' started by Maleko, Feb 24, 2010.

  1. Maleko

    Maleko Weekend Warrior

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    As my last post about my broad head being way off from my field points...
    I have now done the paper tuning method... I was way off . arrows were impacting the paper turning left big time...
    after adjusting my rest in, ( i have a left handed bow) i now get a strait pass through.. this is good.. But, now my sights are off . arrrows going left of original pins. so i adjust the sights to the arrow,Correct? this means i have to move my sights in towards the bow to follow the arrow, my problem now is i cant adjust my sights in closer anymore it bottoms out, but i still have to move them in about a 1/8" or so... now what? if i cant move my sights in what am i supposed to do? need more assistance please..
    Thanks again
     
  2. GMMAT

    GMMAT Grizzled Veteran

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    IF I remember right, you're shooting a .340 (+/-) spined arrow....@ +/- 70# DW.....100gr tip weight.

    What is your draw length?

    One of these compound guys should know of a calculator for you.

    Also.....what kind of rest are you using.....and what fletchings.
     
  3. brucelanthier

    brucelanthier Grizzled Veteran

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    I would cut an inch, maybe even an inch and a half off of one of my arrows, retune using it and see what your results are. You can cut on the nock end and refletch it.
     
  4. Maleko

    Maleko Weekend Warrior

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    Draw length is 28 1/2". .rest is whisper biscuit. when drawn back i have 6 inches of arrow infront of rest...
     
  5. OHbowhntr

    OHbowhntr Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Get everything right, right spine, tip weight, etc, then start from scratch. Post up your "complete" set-up, and I'll give you some feedback on different arrows, arrow lengths, tip weights, etc that SHOULD be good. If you have that much arrow afront of your rest, then you've got too long of an arrow, but that's far better than having too short......:D

    As for the SIGHT adjustments, always remember to "CHASE the arrow!!!" Meaning if you're hitting left, move the sight left, hitting low, move it low, etc.....

    A brief synopsis of what I do to set a bow up is first and foremost, I zero ONE PIN at 20-25yds. I may start shooting from 15yds or so, just to get a basic idea of where it is going to hit, but within 5-10shots, I can generally have a pin pretty well "zero'd." After that, I do a quick "walk-back tune." I make a mark, or just shoot an arrow near the top of my target, then aim for that arrow walking back in 5yd increments. Say at 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40 or so, and look at the pattern to my shooting. If the pattern looks like this " \ ", then the rest needs to go to the LEFT a little, if it looks like this " / ", then the rest needs to go to the RIGHT a little. I move the rest very slightly 1/16-1/32 of an inch unless it's very extreme, then start over. Zero the pin, then repeat the walkback until I have a grouping more like this.... " | ". At that point you can assume you have the rest centered or NEAR center. Then I move on to BH tuning...... Get this far, then we'll go into BH tuning.....
     
  6. Maleko

    Maleko Weekend Warrior

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    i will get my set up as soon as i can,
    i am chasing the arrows. they are left, i am moving my sight left to follow, but the problem is i cant move my sight any further left.. what should i do.
     
  7. OHbowhntr

    OHbowhntr Die Hard Bowhunter

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    If that's the case, then either you've got a spine problem, or you're rest needs moved, or BOTH. If you have that long of arrows, then you likely have a touch of a weak spine, but it shouldn't be THAT weak!!! Move the arrow rest to the right 1/16-1/8 inch, and try again.
     
  8. Maleko

    Maleko Weekend Warrior

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    ok thanks, ill get back to you all after work...

    thanks..... Maleko
     
  9. Finch

    Finch Grizzled Veteran

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    And its "whisker" biscuit not whisper. Just thought you should know. :) Good luck buddy....I can tell you're enjoying the hell out of this.
     
  10. Maleko

    Maleko Weekend Warrior

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    Enjoying yes,,, lol... sorry i knew it was whisker... well maybe i didnt....
    I have found some one local that is a bowtech dealer.. and i explained the problem i am having.. he thinks my arrow are to long and not heavy enough, i am bringing him my bow tomorrow and he is going to cut and make me arrows for my bow, then i will start tuning all over again to the new arrows... i find this all very interesting and a huge learning experiance,, i always thought it was point and shoot.. its like a science...
    i thank you all for your knowledge and a big thanks for all your help. i will update when i get a little further down the road. and im sure i will have more questions for you.
    Thanks again... Maleko............
     
  11. Finch

    Finch Grizzled Veteran

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    Definitely keep us updated...Good luck!
     
  12. GMMAT

    GMMAT Grizzled Veteran

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    Did he really say they weren't heavy enough?

    Red flag.
     
  13. Maleko

    Maleko Weekend Warrior

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    Maybe i shouldnt have used "heavy" he thinks i should have a stiffer spline..
     
  14. Rick James

    Rick James Grizzled Veteran

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    Maleko:

    I haven't read both threads entirely, but I've been following this for a while now, just no time to respond. I'd be glad to help if you can provide the following info for me.

    Exact bow make/model
    Draw length
    Draw weight
    Exact arrow make/model
    Exact arrow length
    Type of fletchings/feathers
    Weight of arrow point

    Once I get this, I'll be able to help you in more detail...........

    ~Matt
     
  15. Maleko

    Maleko Weekend Warrior

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    Matt here is what i know

    2009 Bowtech Admiral
    28 1/2 draw length
    71.9 lbs Draw weight
    316 fps
    trophy ridge whisker bisquit rest
    4 pin tru glow sight
    limb saver 6 1/2" silencer
    Arrows are Carbon express terminator lite hunter 6075 , no idea what the weight is, there is nothing anywhere on the arrow that give any idea what the weight is
    Arrow lenght from nock to broad head tip is 33 inches, about an inch shorter with the field points..
    fletchin is just plastic they are 3 3/4" long
    broad heads are 100grain thunder heads fixed.

    thanks for your help, Maleko
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2010
  16. Maleko

    Maleko Weekend Warrior

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    thinking about a Octane Hostage rest, that way the fletching doesent come in contact with the rest...?
     
  17. Rick James

    Rick James Grizzled Veteran

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    Just as an FYI......your arrow likely weighs roughly 448grains complete with the nock, insert, broadhead, and fletchings. It's shooting around 270 fps.

    Despite the really long arrows (most people would cut the arrow so it's flush with the front of the riser, or maybe a bit shorter), your arrow is pretty close to being spined correctly. It wouldn't hurt to maybe take bottom both limb bolts out completely, and then take one full turn out of each limb bolt. This should bring you down to around 68-69lbs and the spine should be just about perfect.

    What I would do after the above changes to draw weight, is measure from the inside of the arrow shelf to the center of the Whisker Biscuit, where the arrow rests, and adjust the rest so it's roughly 13/16" of an inch away from the inside of the riser sight window.

    Next thing I would do is walkback tune the bow. Start at 10 yards, and shoot with your top pin, and see where it hits. Make sure it's a good solid shot, or start over with another shot. Then step back to 20 yards, aiming at the same impact point, with the same pin. Again, make sure it's a solid shot. Your 20 yard arrow should hit about an inch lower. Then head back to 30 yards, and again, shoot with the same pin, same aiming point, and make sure it's a good shot. The 30 yard arrow should hit several inches lower than the last 20 yard one.

    What you are now going to do, is look at the pattern of the arrows as you walk back. If your centershot is tuned perfectly, you will see the arrows dropping vertically, like the diagram below.

    x (10yd)
    x (20yd)

    x (30yd)

    If your rest needs to be adjusted to see centershot, you will see a pattern like one of the two below, and you will move your rest a bit (like a 1/16" of an inch at a time, maybe less) until they all fall completely vertical.

    Move rest to the right if they look like this:

    ----x (10yd)
    --x (20yd)

    x (30yd)

    Move rest to the left if they look like this:

    x (10yd)
    --x (20yd)

    ----x (30yd)

    Once you have achieved proper centershot through the walkback tuning method above, I would adjust your sight so that your top pin is dead on for 20 yards. Once 20 is dialed in, then use your second pin and get that dialed in for 30 yards, etc........for as far out as you plan to shoot.

    Once you have done the steps above, there are some more advanced tuning steps we can take to ensure that things are spined perfectly, and to get your broadheads/field points hitting in the same spot..........but it's pointless to take those steps until you have achieved a good walkback tune as a starting point.

    Hope this helps!
     
  18. Maleko

    Maleko Weekend Warrior

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    Ok i got my bow re centered, he set it up with a laser,
    made me new arrows.
    the arrows are Carbon Gold Tip Expidition Hunter 5075
    nock to field tip is about 28 3/4 at 9.0 grains per inch with 100 grain gold tip field point.
    i have Blazer fletching 2"
    gonna get me some rage 100 grain mechanical 3 blade
    so i figure total weight of arrow is about 430grain..
    i paper tuned today and it went strait through
    re sighted in my sights and im right on at 20 yrds,,,,
    But my 30 ,40 and 50 yrds im shooting way high, wel about 6 inches high, maybe these new arrows fly truer more strait with less drop perhaps?
    what do you think?
    thanks, Maleko
     
  19. OHbowhntr

    OHbowhntr Die Hard Bowhunter

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    That may spine just a touch weak, but the good news is that you could always cut down and re-insert the Terminator Lite's to about that length, and they should spine real close to what you need. For that set-up you need a .340 spine, and those 5575's are only a .400 spine. They should work okay until you put a fixed blade BH on the tip, then they might fly a little crazy....likely hitting LEFT as you did say you're a LEFTY, correct??? If so, that's what I'd expect. If that's the case, you could have those 6075's cut down to about 28.5-29" or drop your draw-weight a little, and get things spined up a little better.

    As for the pins hitting different, you'll need to adjust them to where they need to be, could be change in the nockpoint or you could've been getting contact if the rest was that far off, and that could've slowed 'em enough to through things off, AND result in groups being a little sloppy.
     

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