How many of you know how to read a soil test? what you can tell me about these. Here are 2 samples from different farms. Which one would be better for a clover plot? Why? Both have a very good ph, but are very very different soils....one of them simply will not grow clover well at all...but the other grows amazing clover plots. Understanding what condition the soil is in...not just ph...is very important to plot success.....I'll post my thoughts later
I like how they spell out what is needed for bulk and bagged doses and even recommend what to add for what you are planting.
Your 1st sample has a great CEC and you're organic matter % is very good as well. Better nutrient holding capacity in the soil of the first sample vs the second. I'm assuming that's what you're alluding to?
WTI does a great job with the soil test info. if you already know that one will grow clover better I guess I don't know what you're asking.
I'm hoping to help shed some light for those who are not familiar with soil test results. The first time I saw one it might as well been Chinese
Your PH levels look good. The 7.5 is slightly more towards the alkaline side but within range for most clover variants. I fear the low potassium in PIT2 is causing the growth of the clover to be stunted. While in MC1 the high level of calcium should support root growth.
Yes.... CEC is often overlooked. In simple terms the CEC is the ability of the soil to retain Moisture. If the number is below 11, the soil is pretty well drained.....and therefore not suitable for clover. Low potassium can be corrected with fertilizer, but you can't change the soils ability to hold water unless you want to truck in clay or introduce an immense amount of organic matter. A CEC of greater than 11 means the soil is heavier and holds moisture better. That's why sample Pit 2 well never be a good location for clover, even with a near perfect ph. brassicas, oats, extreme, and beans have done really well here though. Mc1 on the other hand, grows really lush clover every year.
Once I get the seed in I am going to fence off the plot and put a berm of compost around the plot let water and gravity do it's thing. I noticed that when I brought in compost on the edge of the plot to plant pumpkins that the clover around the compost was noticeably better than the rest of the plot.
Organic matter definitely helps hold moisture...but not nearly as well as clay. Top dressing a really well drained soil with dump truck load or two of clay ave mixing in would help even more
Adding clay to sandy (well drained soil) is a step in the right direction for that circumstance. For other soils adding clay would generally not be as beneficial to the goal of retaining moisture as organic matter. SOM can be raised naturally with no-till and intense/diverse crop rotations. That will naturally raise the CEC. That CEC number has a direct correlation with how much N that soil can hold before leaching out. Multiply that CEC number by 10 and that's what it can hold in N. Any crop needs above that 52 pounds (they recommend 60) will run off with rain water. That plot needs a high N needing crop planted on it, a grass or a brassica or mixed. Add the 52 pounds and top dress it with N a couple of times. The crop residue will retain the N and release it slowly as it breaks down as a mulch, organic matter and will boost soil organic matter from the root growth. Phase out tillage, tillage destroys SOM. Before long you can grow anything you want in that plot. Why do they not show a N reading?
Will whitetail institute help recommend fertilizer for blends other than their own such as a custom blend?
Yes....they have an "other" box you can fill in with whatever you are planting....I did one for my vegetable garden and one for switchgrass also
