Tuning, WB, Blazers

Hello, this is my first post i have done alot of reading on the site ,tons of great info.I have ran into a little problem with tuning in my bow, i am getting a high tear about 3/4" above the point inpact. I just cant get rid of it.I have check several things on the bow. I did checked the cam sync and tiller I went out and bought new arrows with the correct spine for my setup and still there. I put the nocking point so that the arrow is square with the string it was still there and the more you bring it down the worse it gets.So i set it about a 1/4" above square and it got a little better but i cant get it under a 3/4" high tear. So now im thinking that my fletching is hitting on the bottom part of the whisker biscuit cause it gets really bad when i lower the nocking point . I would try a bare shaft test but i dont have one and they are brand new arrows..lol.What would cause that to happen ? I should be able to shoot the Blazers Throught it ...right? I am completely out of ideas.. Any info would be great Thanks

 

You shouldnt have a problem with shooting Blazers thru it .....Is the WB in the correct position to start out with ??? Sounds like its mounted too low


You could get into the nock travel & that of your bow / Cams in sync , ect ?? IDK about them Binary type of cams or whatever Hoyts have ......

 

Steal a tube of your wife's lipstick, and line the very edges of your blazers with it. Now go shoot it through your biscuit, and look for unusual contact. You will know when you see unusual spots of lipstick on the biscuit frame.

Just don't let your wife catch you stealing her lipstick, or she will wonder about you for sure. :D

 

Yeah i set the wb so that the arrow crossed over the mounting hole. I will give the lipstick a try to see if it is hitting .I also thought that since im using axis arrows with the regular medium sized biscuit that it could cause that but the arrows i was shooting before these where the regular size and they did the same . Also getting alot of wear on my wb espesially at the 4 o clock position.

 

If you're shooting a string loop make sure that it isn't pinching tight on the bottom of the nock at full draw.

Make sure that your fletchings are not hitting the black bristles at the bottom of the WB. I shoot full helical Blazers through a WB without issue on one of my bows so you should be able to get it to work. Make sure that your cams are timed correctly and that your limbs are tillered evenly (screwed down all the way and then backed out the same number of turns on each). Also make sure that your brace height and Axle to Axle length are in spec. Your cables may be elongating unevenly as they wear in causing you a timing issue. I suspect it's the loop being too tight but if you make it through all of these and it doesn't clear up then I'd suspect the arrow spine and tweak with that.

 

I have checked the tiller and cam timing and the ata is dead on. Yes i am using a loop on my bow. when i adjusted the loop i tightened it up so that arrow would not move up and down on the string any. how tight or loose should it be..

 

The loop should not touch the bottom of the nock at full draw. For most bows that means that it should be spaced below the nock a couple of serving wraps. It can be tight on the top of the nock.

Here's pretty good instructions on tying in a loop but be aware to leave a little more room than Greg does between the bottom nockset and the nock. I'm pretty certain that will solve your problem.
http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/technical/196301-how-tie-nocksets-d-loop.html

 

I moved the bottom part of the nock loop down about 1/16" so that my arrow has a little play i will check to see if its tight at full draw. I will see if that helps out. I will post the results tomorrow.Thanks for the help:D

 

If you are using a 100 grain point, Easton Technical says you should be using a 340 spined shaft. Weak spine/fingers = side to side, weak spine/release = up down.

http://www.eastonarchery.com/products/selection

If you aren't having clearance issues (and the WB has that "built-in" spray-on foot powder makes a great tell tail), a lighter point would be a good start.

This is assuming your tillar and nock set height are set properly.

 

well i have lowered my draw weight down to around 60 but that did make any differents. I did do what kodiak said and that did help a lot . I have about a 1/4 " high tail now. But i think the some of the problem is coming from the wb cause just the weight of the arrow makes the arrow settle down into the black whiskers...so im going to give that a try to... keep the ideas coming guys .. thanks for the info, hopefully i can get back out hunting soon..

 

How old is the WB that the arrow is settling down into the black whiskers. The black whiskers are a thicker bristle to make sure the arrow doesn't settle down.

 

If I had just a 1/4" high tear through paper I'd be smiling from ear to ear. That's pretty good. Now move to broadhead or bareshaft tuning and you can get it dialed.

 

the wb is only about a month old but i have put lots of shots through it.. i did just do the lipstick test and the first time sure enogh the 5 o clock vane had lipstick way up on the metal ring and the next two was right at the ring but not on top of it. Yeah i am geting a 1/4" to 1/2" high tear. I just didnt know if that was real bad or ok. But its not grouping that good, at 20 yds its a 1" group , but when i get to 30 it about 3-4 in and at 40 its about 5-6" groups. Could it still be my arrows spine with the speed the bow is shooting

 

thought about just going with at drop away rest but not sure if that will help or not. I was going to go with the ripcord rest. Are these decent rest?

 

They are a decent rest. I personally prefer the QAD since it has a lockdown feature to prevent bounceback and it'll stay cocked if you let down on a critter. There's no reason the WB won't work though. Chances are you'll have the same problem with another rest... it's not the rest.

 

Im not sure what else to do. How do i stop the fletching from hitting the edge of the wb?

 

If you set the fletchings of an arrow in the rest do the fletchings touch the frame? They shouldn't be tall enough to reach it. If they are touching it during the shot but not on a static pass through then you know it is something to do with the shot. Lots of people shoot Blazers through the WB successfully... You can too, you just need to figure out what's going on during the shot that's causing the contact.

 

Yeah your right they dont touch if i just pull the arrow through. They are hitting when i shoot . would a weak spine cause this? If so how do i would i test to see if thats it for sure. The people at my pro shop are just costing me more money by leading me down the wrong road. They said that my arrows would be good for up to 70lb draw but all the charts i see says i should be using a 340. I keep seeing alot about cam timing, When i first started messing with this thing the bottom cam stop touched before the top by about a 1/8" so i add a twist to the bus cable and now they both stop at the same time. is that all i should be looking at as far as timing, besides the performance marks hoyt has on the cam( which is good). Also as far as tiller the top was 9 1/16" and the bottom was 9 1/8" so i turned the top weight bolt in a quarter turn and turned the bottom out a quarter of a turn, and there both the same now. My question is did i do that right.. Thank so much for the help hopfully i can get this all straight and get out huntin , and bag one for the freezer.:D

 

Tiller: turn both limbs all the way in and then back them out equally to the poundage you want.

Spine: There's no way a 29" 400 deflection arrow is going to take you to 70# even with just a 100 grain head the Easton charts say 66#. You should be fine at 61# though.

Cam timing: I'm honestly not familiar enough with the Hoyt Cam 1/2 system to answer this but it could be the culprit in up/down tuning issues. Check your manual and make sure it's in spec.

Your nock point should be level or very slightly above to start. The arrow shaft when on the rest and viewed from the side should cross through the rest mount holes. Depending on the bow you can go up or down a bit from that initial position to get a more stable draw. I personally find that a little lower is a bit better in most cases as it puts the nock point closer to the center of the string.

With the WB you want to be sure that your fletchings are indexed so that they do not contact the black whiskers as they go through.

With Blazers you need to ensure that they aren't contacting the cables or slide on the way by.

 

This is the exact reason I hate the WB,the only way I have ever had any luck with them and paper is with feathers.