Russ, Steve, Jeff... can someone explain how to tune my recurve. I've been reading quite a bit and have started shooting it a lot more. It's a Martin X-200 that is 50# at 28". I began shooting Beman 340's with a 150gr. point a couple of years ago and the arrows (to me) were flying true. But I never got very scientific with it because it was working for me. I have some time now and plan to hunt with it this season, and since I have some time and you guys have the knowledge... I thought I'd start over to make sure my stuff is set up right. :D All info is appreciated. This is the bow and my first bird killed with it. Trohpy fee was $5. (No that's not my house with the Colt 45 over the door) :D :D
1st of all I'd get the brace height where It's suppose to be If It Isn't right. If It don't say It on the bow I found a link on your Martin X-200. 8 to 8 3/4 Is what the recommended brace height Is suppose to be. After you get that set and ready I'd recommend doing some bare shafting. When bare shafting you'll know right away If your nocking point on your string Is too high or low. With my experiences kicking up usually means to high of a nocking point, kicking down to low of a nocking point. As for the right arrows/weights I'm sure you know that procedure with bare shafting. This Is the 1st year I've ever bare shafted, I sure was missing out!! If your arrow Is kicking to the right, too weak of spine. Kicking left, too stiff. I'm sure you know all this but I thought I''d mention It anyway.
Thanks bud, my brace height is 8 3/8" right now... I think you are correct in the "user guide" it said between 8 and 8 3/4. I guess, I didn't realize that there's not a whole lot of difference between tuning a compound and recurve. I think I should be able to handle that. :D
You lost me here Jeff. Perfection can be found, you just need to find It and when you find It you'll be happy you did. For 13 years I shot an arrow that was good but not great. 14 years later I found the exact arrow I need to be shooting. Little did I know I was shooting an arrow that wasn't stiff enough for my bow. Going by the specs the 2216's I was shooting should've easily been stiff enough but they weren't. One just never knows I guess. Best way to learn Is tinker with stuff, you might surprise yourself. Getting the correct set up with your bow and your arrows Is more critical with traditional bows. The less proficient your bow/arrows are the more It will effect your arrows performance with penetration. Traditional bows aren't speed bows by any means so they need to be efficiently set up right.
Interesting Is right. If I wouldn't of adjusted my nocking point down a tad who knows what I would of done for arrow length and weights with my FMJ's. There's a chance It will even shrink more as time goes on. When I 1st started shooting my recurve I have now my draw length was 29 Inches. It's now 28 or 28.5, can't remember which one. :d Good to hear that you got your arrow stuff all figured out. Which arrows/set up did you go with?
My arrow was kicking a tad high and not flying "great". Some people would think there was other Issues with their arrows If they didn't fix what the problem was to begin with. I see. Cool
Mine are the 340 FMJ's Jeff. Everything you need to know Is In this link right here- http://www.eastonarchery.com/products/hunting/carboncore
