Paper tuned my new bow the other day to shoot bullet holes. Shot yesterday to readjust my sight in. At 20 yards I'm hitting arrows on every shot, dead center. At 30 yards I'm 6" to the right, all grouped together. When you look down the bow, not drawn, I'm used to the string, middle of the rest and the sight to be in line. If I line up the string and middle of rest, the sight is 1/2" to the left. The sight is almost off of the rail - only about 1/4" left holding it on. Never run into this problem before. Any thoughts? Diamond Outlaw, 71.5# pull, 29.5" draw.
I think you need to tune your rest. Try moving your rest to the left one tick at a time. Shoot it at 20 yards, then shoot it at 40 yards to confirm.
Do a search on "Walk Back Tuning". You'll find several sites that explain it pretty well. Like Sgt Tal said, you need to tune your center shot/arrow rest. I had this same problem, only to the left, and walk back tuning completely did away with it. My bow shoots great now. Jim
As others have said, you should try some walkback tuning. There is some great info out there on it if you search. Bare shaft tuning is another method to use. What arrows and what length/gr tips are you using?
I would double check your form as well as walk back tune...move your rest in very small increments when doing this
Paper tuning is a ROUGH method of tuning that in some cases you may NEVER get a bow to shoot bullet holes, yet you can zero a pin, and walkback tune a bow and get it pretty close. Screw on some BH's and get everything exactly where you need it, assuming the spine is right. Weak spine or severely stiff spine, then you can chase your tail for days and still never get it quite right. If the OP doesn't have a .340 or maybe even stiffer arrow, then the right flyers are just a sign of the spine. I'm assuming that's not the case considering the sight alignment though. But once it's tune correctly, something weaker than a .340 spine will likely drift right with BH's still.
My question is this : If there were a problem in alignment between the rest and the string why did it not show up on a paper tune ?? I have read several procedures for paper tuning and not one of them mentioned walk back tuning. I can see how both could be used to adjust rest/string alignment and one could be used to confirm the other. But what I can't understand is how it could pass a paper test and be that far off. I also don't understant why the procedures on paper tuning didn't mention the walk back tuning. I am glad I read this thread because I will use the walk back tuning as a check. This answers as to why I can look down my arrow and string and they are in line while my pins are slightly to the left. I thought this was because there was something wrong with my form or something.
At what distance did you papertune??? Here's the down and low on it.... Paper-tuning is a waste for most applications. As long as you're somewhere near where you should be, getting a walkback tune done, and then getting a Broadhead tune should be relatively simple as well. The ultimate goal is getting arrows to fly consistently, whether there is a BH or a FP on the front end of that arrow.
Doug, we have disagreed on this before and I'll disagree with you again:D. Done correctly, paper tuning is as effective as any tune method. That is the problem though, it is rarely done properly and that is why people say I paper tuned and my arrows are still off....Some tuning methods are harder to screw up than others and, for most, BH tuning is the best method because it is the hardest to screw up. Plus it gets them ready for hunting. I would suggest to anyone that tuning is not just one method, only paper, only walk back, only BH. Tuning should involve 3-4 tuning methods. That way one checks the other and you will likely weed out form deficiencies and bad habits from the process. If you have a crappy arrow that is ill suited to your bow, DL and DW then going through the tuning process is a waste and you'll(anyone) probably need rage BH's because, hey, they fly like FP's. Most poor shooting/tuning problems would probably go away if folks started the whole process with a well built arrow. At least folks are trying to tune their setups, though. That's always a good thing.
Got tired of trying to tune the Hostage rest - put a TR Revolution drop away rest on last night. Had the guy at my local pro shop install and set it up for me. Only had a 20 yd range at the shop, so no walk back tuning, but paper tuning was spot on and groups were tighter with this rest. Gained about 10 fps as well. Shooting a 405gr total weight at 298fps. After resighting in, started knocking arrows against one another on every third shot or so. Hopefully I'll get some time to do a walk back this weekend. Bow setup is: 29" draw (dropped it .5"), 71.5#, arrows are 28", Cabela Hunter 350's.
Spine should be about perfect assuming you're using a 100gr tip. If you notice any issues with flyers to the right, you may want to drop a few pounds on the draw weight, but you should be pretty good. Often times, you can "eyeball"a rest, and make sure it is aligned with the center of the riser, and in line with the limb bolts, and start from there, and be VERY CLOSE. I've set up many rests where my adjustments were probably less than 1/16" either way just based off of my eyeballing them. I have a hostage on the bow I'm currently shooting, and it's not a GREAT rest, but for the containment type that I need currently, it's does the job. As for gaining speed one chrono or the other is off, you won't gain anywhere near that much speed with a rest change, and you certainly aren't gaining speed when dropping draw-length. But speed is really not an essential factor in the overall realm if you can't put the arrow where it NEEDS to be. I find that the "most tunable" set-ups tend to be ones that shoot in the 270-280fps range when setting stuff up. Seems to be just enough speed to be "fast" without getting on the edge of out of control....
The only thing i didnt like about paper tuning is after you do this and then go to broadhead tuning it most of the time throws off papper tunning . It can drive a person crazy .
Precisely why I say papertuning is a WASTE of time for most of us.... What is our real goal??? To have our bow tuned to shoot arrows precisely where we want them to go at 40yds or whatever distance, or to have our arrows go perfectly straight through a piece of paper??? I know what I'm trying to accomplish, and it don't have anything to do with paper. Beyond that though, paper tuning is only part of the picture. After a good broadhead tune, most people will find that their FP tipped arrows tend to fly a bit better as well, because you have nock height and rest alignment nearly perfected.
Any tuning, done improperly, will not produce good results. Any tuning, done improperly, is a waste of time for anyone. That is why there are rage BH's, for those that waste their time.
Did a walk back to 40 yds - the variations were in my shooting, not the tuning. Shooting 2" groups at 40 yds, about an inch low right now. The Revolution rest solved all the tuning issues. Broadheads are flying same as field points at to 30 yds, and I mean the same and the refletching I have to do proves it. Picked up a few Carbon Express Maxima Blue Streaks and through two different chrono's shooting at 308 now, with groups much better than the Cabelas Hunter arrows. 71.5#, 29" draw with a 27.75" arrow (cut mid riser), total arrow weight 375, KE at 80 ft-lbs. I could move to a 125 BH and my KE would barely change, according to calculations and speed would go down abou 8-10 fps so I'll probably just stay with the 100 gr tips. Haven't figured FOC yet, but the arrows are flying great, true and consistent so probably not going to worry about it. Only issue I have now is a numb pinkie and ring finger, with the tip of the middle finger thrown in. I can shoot about 10-15 times before my hand gets weak enough to justify not pulling back anymore. I've tried my wrist strap looser, tighter, further back, further forward, etc. Going to wait until the numbness goes away and try a thumb release to see if it helps. Sucks getting old. Got out of bowhunting for 8 years, pick up a new bow and 2 weeks later can barely shoot because of the numbness.
See RED above. Bruce, Didn't address this the other day, as I was having a mind jumble, but I know at some level paper tuning CAN be excellent, but for MOST of us, it's just a PITA that can sometimes creates more problems than it's really worth. I let a guy take my bow and try to paper tune it one time to the extent that he had my nockpoint about 3/8" above square before I finally said...."Now that you've completely SCREWED it up, I'm going to take it back and tune it the RIGHT WAY (according to me.)!!!" He still tried to tell me that to get the bow to shoot correctly, it MUST be paper-tuned. I couldn't honestly tell you what the issue was, but I RH'd a few arrows with that bow, and shot BH's and FP's to a very similar POI out to 40yds, using the walk-back, followed by a BH tune, so it worked for ME for my purposes. I don't see well enough to shoot much past 40-50yds anymore, therefore, my "needs" are different than a lot of peoples.
Let the hand rest for a few days - numbness is much better, but not totally gone. Went and shot 4 different thumb releases last night - about 20 shots total. The Tru-Fire Edge 4 Pro thumb release was the clear winner for me - just felt right. Hand got slightly more numb, but nothing at ALL compared to what it was doing with the wrist release, so I'm hopeful this is just a temporary issue at this time. Going to give it a few more days and go back and shoot it again. If it gets worse again after shooting, it's off to the doc.
