I have a Diamond edge max that I bought in June ‘24 and practiced with how it came so cheap sight and whisker biscuit. Practice every other day since buying it and shooting 4 inch groups at 40yards, 2 1/2 inch groups at 30 and closer. I tagged a nice buck in early season so I decided to wait till after gun season to go back out for a doe and took the down time to go buy a tru glo 5 pin and a qad hunter drop away and try to increase my accuracy. As a kid I would shoot 2 inch or tighter groups to 50yards with a similar bow and wanted to get back to that. Since installing the drop away my groups at 20 are touching and that’s the furthest I’ve been able to shoot since getting it. The problem is when trying to paper tune and get ready to broadhead tune I’m getting tears with the tail to the right and no adjustment to the rest is helping. So I’m watching my form closely. Proper grip and release. Holding tight to the back wall and following through. Nothing is helping the tear. Before the drop away I didn’t have this issue. What am I missing? Do I bare shaft tune? Go straight to broad heads? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You can try to increase your point weight on your arrow. Where is your rest, post a pic. You can try moving it to the right. Have someone check timing on your rest and cam timing. Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
I was thinking to move from 100s to 125 but unsure if that would throw off the FOC. Still trying to learn about that. I will post a pic when I can but the rest is in plane with my sight and string and mounted to where the arrow is level with my nock when the rest is at 90 degrees. I changed out the sight first and lined everything up and sighted in the 20yrd pin with the whisker biscuit then a few days later put on the drop away and only had to make adjustment down about a 1/8 to be sighted in at 20 for the drop away. As far as I can tell everything is on the center line. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
your FOC would be tad higher going to 125grs, it also will weaken the spine some too .. if border line weak spine, that usually isnt good for broadheads.... I want spine spot on or a tad stiff ..
Also could be vane contact with the rest. I had a bad time with that on that rest. Can try turning the nock to orientation of vanes are different. For example your cock should be straight up from whisker biscuit, so turn turn it so cock vane is left, if right handed bow. Also check nock pinch on your string at full draw. Also it could be a spine issue of the arrow.
Been checking different positions in case of vane contact and actually having the best groups with odd one down. Nock pinch was a concern when I first started shooting this bow but not a problem after switching already. I checked the gold tip chart on the back of my arrows to check recommendation for spine based off draw weight and length. I’m set at 67 lbs on a 29 inch draw shooting blackout brand x1 pro 340g arrows with standard insert and 100g field points and broad head. I’ve considered upgrading arrows for better consistency at longer distance but also for if I get the chance to elk hunt or take on bigger challenges. I can’t afford multiple sets so limited to one set of all around arrows for now. Any recommendations will help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Try shooting 2 arrows at a dot at 20 yards. First one a broadhead, then second a field point. See if you have same point of impact. If a noticeable space between them, then there is a tuning issue somewhere. Of course a bare shaft will show a bad tune of a bow also. But if you have any form or grip problems, that will show on the bare shaft also. I would start simple and do the broadhead test first.
what length are the arrows ?? .... on my Elite Ritual, at 60 lbs I use 300's ... on my Bowtech sr350 @ 57lbs I use 340's (XT Velocity for both), both are cut 27.75" cut to cut (28" with nock) (30" draw for both).. you can also turn down limb bolts in 1/4 turn increments to see how those arrows perform(mark the starting point with a pencil ... if groups tighten as you turn the bow down, you may be a tad under spined .... better to be over spined a tad ..
Plan to do after I pick up my broad head target, have it loaned out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You wrote 340g on the post above. That your total arrow weight? Or was that supposed to be the spine of the arrow? If weight, what is the spine of the arrows?
You seem to be right on the edge of the spine being to weak. Might have to go up to a 300 spine arrow. Is your bow right hand? You will get a uncontrollably right or left tare with your arrows if the spine is too weak or too stiff. Sometimes you can fix this with just adjusting the length of a arrow. If you need to keep your arrows you have, maybe try taking a 1/2 inch off your current arrows. This will make the spine stronger. Dont add weight to the front, this will weaken the spine.
I was reading about that which could make sense with it being a tear to the right. It is a right handed bow. I’d rather be too stiff so will look into 300s. Just not understanding why I didn’t have this issue before the drop away but also didn’t try to tune as much with the whisker biscuit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ll be shooting groups with broad heads and field tips tomorrow. If I have to go through route of new arrows and I want a all around arrow that can handle turkey, deer, elk and 3d is there anything I should be considering with my current set up when it comes to the arrow to buy. Should I be looking into weighted inserts and heavier tip for bigger broadheads? I’m currently using fixed 3 blade and had excellent penetration on my buck this season. Only made it about 30 yards with a good clean shot, not a pass through but arrow exiting to the fletchings. My concern is grouping at longer ranges and also penetration on bigger game when I get to that point. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Did you install the rest yourself, or have a shop do it? If yourself, and you used the little football clamp, those are notorious for slipping and then the rest timing is off. It is much more trouble free if the activation cord is put through the down cable, which requires having a bow press. If a shop is a long drive for you and it is just way more convenient to use the clamp, then it is a good idea to serve above the clamp after setting its position to help keep it from pulling up the cable. For an FYI if you put the rest on yourself, it is recommended to have the activation cable attached to the down cable about straight across from where the bottom of your bow grip is. Another FYI, it is very common for a bow's centershot to be 13/16". That is measuring from the side of the bow riser near the Berger hole to the center of the arrow. Another thing about the hunter version QAD is it has no brake, many have trouble with it dropping in time but then it hits the shelf and bounces back up a bit, making contact with fletching when it does that. Some thicker felt to help cushion where it hits the shelf (plus it will be quieter) can help or try to slide the rest back away from the shelf (towards the string) so the launcher does not hit the shelf at all. Like said above, shoot a fixed broadhead (BH) tipped arrow and a field point (FP) tipped arrow. Start close at about 10 yards, if the tune is off very much you may miss the whole target at 20 yards. Shoot the BH first, so you don't cut the fletchings off your other arrow if they are hitting close. But if you're seeing a nock right tear, I think you'll find that the BH arrow hits left of the FP arrow. A lot of string to face pressure can give you a nock right through paper. Forearm/elbow alignment to the arrow (draw length) can do it. Grip torque can give you that also. But since you had no issues until changing the rest, I would really focus on how well the rest is functioning. Center shot position, timing, and if it could be bouncing back up after dropping.
Mod-it id great at explaining things. Definitely read thru his post. If the only thing you changed is the rest, then thats the problem most likely. Could throw the WB back on and see if it fixes the problem? Ive had 3 QAD rest in my life, and had bad problems with 2 of them. So went to Hamskea and haven't looked back. Never a problem with them. One of my QAD rest wouldn't release on the shot. The arrow fletchings would knock it down, so it looked like everything was normal, but my arrows were constantly off. Saw heavy black marks on my vanes and figured it out pretty quick.
I set the rest up myself. I installed a 5 pin sight to replace the 3 pin while it had the whisker biscuit on, then after shooting a few days installed the qad rest and used my eyes to line up center shot between the string- sight and then to the tip of the arrow to adjust the rest. Also checked for square off the string to the rest with a micro square I use at work, I’m a carpenter. Shooting field tips my shots are grouping great and right in line with my sights left and right. Slight elevation change on the sight and dead on at 20. But while tuning before shooting with broadheads I’m having weird rips and can’t fix the tail right rips. Also used the clamp for the rest. watching my draw and shot I can see the rest rise right before full draw. I don’t have a trustworthy shop near me, I could drive to bass pro but last time they touched my bow I had to tighten everything down myself and the tech kept having to go find someone else to explain how to do the work. The tech even struggled just to tie in the peep sight. Took a few times to get it right and it still pulled out. I will keep looking for a shop but would like to learn to fix it myself to avoid the problems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Shot broadheads and field tips side by side tonight with 1 broadhead followed by 2 field tips. First few sets at 10 yards had same elevation but broadhead hit 5-6 inches to the left. Made small adjustments on the rest moving it to the right towards the field tips. After moving from 6 (center mark on the rest) to 4.5 I was stacking arrows on top of each other. Broke a nock where the groups were so tight. Moved back to 15 yards still tight groups. Stepped back to 20 and the groups opened up with the broadhead hitting a little lower than field tips but I’m thinking it’s just from getting tired and difficult to see the target with it getting dark. I’m pretty sure I messed up those shots. Plan to try to set up again tomorrow to check at 20 and move back. If hitting low again at 20 or further back should I move the rest up to follow the field tips like I did with left and right or is there another issue I’m not considering? I need to confirm if the problem was me or the bow still but want to be ready to fix the issue if needed. Thank you everyone for your help and input Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I know this is a Hot take but I am a through paper tune. I don't adjust tune to BH. If you are not getting at tear at 3yrds 10 yards and 20 then you should be good to bare shaft. Get that locked down and you should be stacking. If you have to, make a paper rig out of whatever is around. Keep it tight and make micro adjustments until you are there. I could be way off here but it's what I do . Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
