I have a new bow and my grouping wasn’t as great as I would like it to be so I figured I would check out the tuning (it couldn’t be me haha). On the paper I was getting a nock high and right tear. I adjusted the vertical out and was left with just a dead right tear. I have adjusted the rest towards the riser and the tear stayed about the same so I assumed that I did it wrong and moved it away from the riser. The tear stayed the same. I then figured that my arrow had to be making contact with my cables and I turned the nock on an arrow to make the cock vane point directly away from the riser and the tear was the same. I tried moving the rest to the point where there was no possible way that the vanes could make contact with the cables and obviously that was too much because it got worse. So long story short I have no idea how to get the bow properly tuned. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’m shooting a Hoyt Powermax at 60lbs with Easton Bloodline arrows 400 spine at 28” and 100 grain field points.
spray your arrow rest with foot spray to leave a chalky residue and shoot an arrow to look for contact.
if you are getting a right tear and its a right hand bow you would move the rest out. Look at your cams and see if you have any lean. In some cases you can get the left right tears out by yoke tuning. There is a chance one of your side have stretched slightly and you just need to add a few twists. This will tell you what you need to know: http://www.lancasterarchery.com/blog/paper-tuning-101/ Good link for yoke tuning: https://shootingtime.com/archery/yoke-tuning-solo-cam-bow/ Hope that helps.
Thanks for the replies. I will be trying out the foot powder spray tonight to see if there is any contact. I guess whether it is babe contact or yoke tuning, I will have to head to the shop since I don’t have a bow press at the house. I’ll follow up again tonight with how the process goes
If you’re worried about the odor of foot spray try some ground up white chalk. It doesn’t stick as well but gets the job done.
I might have to look into the ground up chalk since we are close to bow season here. I don't want to have any more scent than necessary with me. I rock climb so I have tons of chalk powder laying around the house. I had to take a trip home at lunch today to take another look at the bow (I was too busy thinking about it at work) and I tried to check it out and discovered a few things. 1.) The rest had little scuff marks where there was some contact with the vanes so I know that needs to be adjusted. It appears that the rest is set a bit too low by looking at the berger hole. (at least based on what I have seen others post) This would lead me to believe that the "fix" that I did last night was just a band-aid masking the real problem and I need to look a little further into the issue. 2.) The D-loop looks like it might be pinching the nock at full draw when it is coming together so I'm thinking that could be playing a role in the arrow not coming out straight. 3.) I am an idiot who apparently does not know his right from his left. My tear is nock left not nock right as I originally posted. It might be easier to fix the problem if I can at least accurately describe it haha. I've got the bow with me at there is an archery shop right around the corner from my office so I'm hoping that with someone able to actually set their hands on the bow I'll be able to get it set up exactly how it needs to be and have adequate practice with it before hunting season. In hindsight I probably should have waited until after hunting season to buy a new bow but worst case scenario, there's always gun season. I'll post again later with the results either way. Thanks for the help internet strangers.
Visited the bow shop after work and told them what was happening with my tuning. The guy said that he wouldn’t have time to get it done tonight but he could do it tomorrow and I could just pick it up tomorrow. I was under the impression that a bow had to be tuned to the individual shooter. Am I wrong in that? He assured me that it wouldn’t leave the shop until it was shooting bullet holes so I figured I could give him the benefit of the doubt and try it tomorrow and see how it shoots. I’m just wondering if I should expect it to shoot perfectly tomorrow or if I should expect to have the bow back to me shooting the same as it was before. Any thoughts?
Id say your torqueing the bow or more likely under spined.. I had the exact same issue.. paid more attention to my grip mainly, and bought 350' arrows.. problem solved.
I just realized that I never updated with the results. Thank you to everyone who has replied to this. In the end it was a couple of factors that were throwing me off but it is all worked out now. I picked the bow up from the shop and I was told that I wasn't allowed to shoot it through paper there to confirm that everything was good but if I had any problems I could bring it back and they would take a look at it. They said the timing was off and that was probably due to the string settling and stretching a little with it being a brand new bow. I assumed all was well and went home to test it out. First shot through paper was a nock high and left tear (same as before). I was a little upset given that I had just paid them to fix whatever was wrong with it. I grabbed the arrow and sent it through again. Nock high and left tear. By this point I was really upset and I was planning to storm into the bow shop the next morning and go off on them for charging me for a still broken bow. I grabbed another arrow out of the pile of arrows I had on my shelf that was brand new for this season, never been shot (I know I should have been tuning with the same arrow but I was just getting frustrated) and sent it through the paper. This time I got a perfect bullet hole. Grabbed another arrow out of the pile and got another bullet hole. After that I was just confused but I figured that it had to be something I was doing. I'm have been shooting a bow for a number of years and feel like I have pretty decent form but I know that I'm not perfect so I assumed that the tear was just me not doing something right. I figured "close enough" and went outside to sight in my pins and figured I would just do a lot of practicing to work out what was going wrong in my form. I had 9 Easton bloodlines with me (3 from last year and the 6 brand new ones) and shot them each 3 times into the target (taking breaks throughout to make sure my form was still good) and all 3 times I had 6 grouped really tight and 3 flyers. As I was pulling the arrows from the target the third time I realized something. The new arrows that I bought were a 330 spine and not the 400 spine like my old arrows. I had mistakenly grabbed the wrong box when I bought them and it turns out that the flyers were all 400 spine arrows. Talk about feeling like an idiot. I went back to the basement to the paper and sure enough the 330's shot bullet holes every time and the 400's tore up and left. I have no idea how the shop got it set up with the old 400 arrows but at this point I'm not complaining. I've got a bow that shoots bullet holes through and groups amazingly well. TLDR Summary: The bow was a little out of timing (most likely due to stretching of the brand new string like Copperhead said), the arrows were underspined, and I'm an idiot (albeit a lucky idiot) Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while. Thanks for the help everyone.
