I am shooting with a release. Even when I shoot my gold tip kinetics 300 slick tricks are still hitting right. I think I have it figured out. Idler wheel needs fine tuning. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
You have a set of arrows with a .300 spine and a set of arrows with a .340 spine? How are you shooting each set, mixed? BH on one set, FP on the other? I agree with tfox that you are spined correctly with the .340, but the .300 would be very stiff for that setup. With a properly tuned bow, you can put a field point, fixed, or mechanical on the front and group them all together.
The .340 spine is cut shorter at 29 inches, making the arrow stiffer and the .300 spine is cut to 30.5 inches. Both arrows fly exactly the same. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
I know that a proper tuned bow will shoot field and broadheads same point of aim and from going back over everything I have done, my bow should be properly tuned. Everything that has been mentioned I have covered. Which led me to believe I had my idler wheel leaning a tad bit. So my thought process is correct then. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
I shoot the thunderhead edges by nap. The offset blades lines up with off set fletchings gave me good accuracy. All I did was walk back tune and BH tune and I was hitting bullseye at 40 yards.
Possible to get a picture of the idler wheel in relation to the string? As if you were holding the bow out in front of you to shoot. Usually if there in a lean it will be noticeable. At your draw length you may need to adjust for lean at full draw vs resting, though. Vane/blade alignment has zero holding in accuracy whatsoever.
If I were to take picture like you are asking it will appear out its straight up and down. I think the issue its at full draw. I will still take a picture so you can see. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Trying to give different shot angles. Just your fun, to definitely rule out any theory of spine weakness. I screwed on the slick tricks to my 300 kinetics and same results out to 20y. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Those pictures are in the static position. The lean may or may not be present at full draw. I am more interested in seeing the arrow on the rest. Center shot can be as much or more of an issue. There is definitely lean at static. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
I won't be able to get another picture till Wednesday. Tell me what angle so I can deliver what you are asking for please. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Will do. Check back Wednesday night. That's when I will be able to take a picture again. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
No real tattle tails there. A pic from above might reveal something but I doubt it. The arrow does appear to be pointed out a little. Try french tuning for centershot. Once that is set try your broad heads, if broadheads still don't tune, adjust on the yoke for lean. (I still suspect this to be the msin issue) On a side note. Notice how your pull cord to the rest is twisted toward the arrow side of the shelf. You can twist/spin the cord and it will turn to the sight side. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
Alright I will check it out today. this morning was the last day got the season and the wind decided to blow 30mph, so I will have some down time at the house. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Tfox I found your thread of tuning your with bareshaft after setting centershot with a French tune. I and going to tackle this Friday evening or the start of it at least. I am not want to strip more then two arrows of vanes. Would I be able to bareshaft well with just one bareshaft. William Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
