Only thing you got to play with on a bare bow recurve is brace height, and nocking point. Several ways to do it, but the most common for recurves/longbows is bare shaft first followed by broadhead tune. Ol Adcock has a good page on it http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm Also check out easton tuning guide. Same deal, same instructions. You start out shooting bare shafts with fletched shafts and making adjustments to the nocking point to where they have same POI and the bare shaft isn't sticking up or down. Then you can play with brace (by twisting the string) to get the bow the most quiet or to get the arrow fishtailing down. The Brace adjustment can't get you much so you must be in the ballpark in the first place with the arrow stiffness. You can adjust arrow stiffness by adding or reducing point wieght. In some cases, you might have to start over. If your arrow spine is too stiff, it can effect nocking point. So you might have to add enough head wieght to get that close, and then go back to nocking point, then go back to adding or reducing point wieght. By the time you finish, bare shafts should be straight in the target hitting with fletched arrows at 20 yards. Next you polish it off with BH tuning.
BC has got you on the right track. Good advise. If you did everything right above there really should be no worry on shooting any BH.
Starting off, the problem is usually the shooter. I know when I started I changed bows weekly, had like 10 different spined arrows, point wieghts from 75gr to 250gr, when in all honesty, it was my poor release. When I finally found a combo that worked for me, things changed over time. The arrows became too weak. Because my release and form got better. I have slacked off this year and my shooting needs work again.
i know its all me and my lack of experience, skill and form but im working on that but its the fact of reading as much as i can and having to reread it 50 times to attempt to figure out what i just read lol i need trad archery for dummies! lol
BC is right. Most trad bows, you do not tune the bow, unless you are building it. And in that case, i would not need to explain positive and negative tiller. You adjust brace and knock height and tune your arrows to the bow. On top of that, practice, practice, practice.
ok im starting to get it the hamster wheel is turning in my head lol thank you guys for your patients in helping me understand this when you read giant articals everything blends together and it becomes alot more complicated then it really is but you guys are doing a great job simplifying it for me and im starting to understand thanks yall! but keep the tips tricks advice and techniques coming i love learning!
