Hey gusy another question, when i tuned my monster the rest was way off centershot line up the handle and i couldnt see the whole sight? What did i do wrong? I seemed nicly paper tuned and stuff but i couldnt see the whole sight?
I don't put much stock in paper tuning any more. I set everything up with lasers and levels and move on to walk back tuning, bareshaft tuning, and broadhead tuning. Rarely do I have to move anything very much to get dialed in Dan
Your arrows are likely the wrong spine. Moving the rest compensates for a weak/stiff spine and, if you are extreme in one of those, you will likely see the result you saw. You moved the rest to compensate for the wrong spine so your arrow was shooting "tuned" which is why you got a good paper result. If you had left your rest at centershot then you would have had a bad paper result which you could have remedied by fixing the arrow instead of moving the rest. Lasers and levels won't do anything for tuning except get you at centershot with a level arrow. Once you are at centershot the tuning starts and how you get tuned can involve different things. Some folks move the rest, some shorten/lengthen the arrow, some change tip weight , some change DW and some do a combination of all of that. I do not like to move the rest once centershot and level is established so I usually build an arrow that will be a bit weak and then turn down DW to get tuned.
I agree! Starting with the correct arrow is of major importance. I personally think that is why I have to do very little adjusting once I begin tuning, but since I usually swap bows at least every year I don't mess with the arrow in the tuning process. It is what is! If I am tuning someone elses bow, different weight, different draw length, I sometimes have to do a little of all. I think the last bow of mine I tuned I moved the rest 1/32" horizontally and not even that much vertically. It all will work just depends on how you wanna saddle the horse On another note most charts lean towards the stiff side, so keep that in mind. Dan
well i shoot 70lbs with 28in draw and a 340 arrow spine 27in arrow...is there anything that i need to change arrow wise?
The levels and laser will help with getting the rest installed in the correct position, but, that's it. You still need to tune your arrow spine to the bow. I try to choose an arrow that, in theory, is near correct for my DL, DW, and poundage. Then, I do a little paper shooting. If all looks good, I go to bareshaft tuning, it's here that I begin to play with arrow length. I start with an arrow that's a touch longer, and, cut down from there. I dont go to great lengths to tune, but, I do more than I see most people doing. I shoot mechanicals, so, I don't need to broadhead tune. Where my field points hit is where my broadheads will hit.
I'll disagree with that. Your FP's and BH's may hit the same place but your bow and arrow combo are not performing as efficiently as they should if they are not tuned together correctly. You may get pass throughs but, the fact is, high DW's make up for a lot of poor tuning where mechanicals are concerned. At least that is my observation in many conversations on these subjects.
Which tip weight did you tune with? Why would you practice with something you don't hunt with? Why two different tip weights? You know, the problems you were having with your bow and rest, your setup, may not really be the problem you think it is.
i had a mix up and got camo arrows and black arrows...both nanos buy have diff gpi so i made up for lack with tip weight...i know thats prob wrong but it cost me 130 for the arrows so i had to make due haha
When one is broadhead tuning, one is looking for his broadhead tipped arrows to impact in the same spot as his field point tipped arrows, correct ? My arrows do this. Whether I have practice tips(mechanical practice tip) or field points, they hit exctly the same, so I'm "broadhead tuned"...?? I keep my set-up as tuned as I can get it. For example, I started with an Easton Axis 340 at 29-1/4", 68.72lb DW, 28" DL. 100 Grain tip- 443-444 grain complete arrow.(all arrows weighed on an zeroed scale). Paper shooting with ME shooting- perfect tear while maintaining both windage adn elevation centershot. I went to 20 and 30 yards for bare shaft tuning. The results were indicative of a weak spine, which I had anticipated. I began to cut the bare shaft down 1/4" at a time. The more I cut off, the better the impact was. At 30 yards I was able to get my bare shaft to hit within 2 1/2"(to the right) of my complete arrows. I stopped here, that day. When I resume, I anticipate that I'll come down a little bit more on my arrow length, and, I'll be good. The arrows at the original length were performing great out to 80 and 100yards. However, the bareshafts were not. This is as far as I'll take arrow tuning. I'll get this arrow as close as I possibly can, fletch them up at the new length and I'm good.
I do the exact same Dan. I honestly couldn't care less what my arrow looks like going through paper at 3'. I want every single arrow I shoot with any tip, fletched or not to impact the same point. The easton's tuning guide is extremely effective and simple.
Paper tuning, done correctly would accomplish just that. Paper tuning is a method, and it certainly isn't the only one, to get your bow and arrow shooting efficiently. As long as you do that it doesn't really matter which, or how many, methods you use to accomplish it. I could jjust as easily say I never BH tune and that I want every single arrow I shoot with any tip, fletched or not, to impact the same point. Why some need to make the point that they never paper tune baffles me. They say it like it is some bizarre outdated method that no one should do. It is as valid as any other tuning method out there if you know what you are doing but then, that is true of any tuning method, you need to know what you are doing for it to achieve good results.
Explain this to me, please. When someone says they're broadhead tuning, I think they are taking their bow that is tuned to their arrow with specific grain head. They shoot field points dead on, then, shoot broadhead tipped arrows. After that, they make any required adjustments to the rest/nock point, in order to have the broadhead tipped arrows impact the same location as field points, right ? My bow is tuned, so I'm not worried about it. However, apparently I have misunderstood the theory behind broadhead tuning.
Broadhead tuning is done with a fixed blade BH. The arrow reacts differently when it has "wings" on the front and must be tuned accordingly. Mechanicals, by their very nature, do not have the same "wings" that a fixed blade does so that renders the BH tuning with a mechanical ineffective, like BH tuning with a FP. If you want to BH tune get a big 2 blade BH (Muzzy Phantom comes to mind) and put that on your arrow. See if it hits where your FP's hit. If it does out to, say, 50 yards then I would agree, you are BH tuned. IMO, The whole point of mechanicals like rage was to get BH's hitting with FP's without tuning because most do not know how to actually tune their setups and could not get BH's to hit with FP's. Then rage comes alongs and "fixes" that problem. Now, though, there is a new problem and that is lack of pass throughs due to inefficient setups, poorly tuned setups, that waste energy that could be used for penetration. People fix the penetration problem by increasing DW. No reason to fix it by tuning because the, hey, the mechanical BH and FP impact the same.
