You got me again. Keep thinking your paper tuning is doing the best job possible. I dont think paper tuning is a complete waste of time as all tune is beneficial and has it place. You and Bruce can keep thinking that paper tuning is the best thing ever I really dont care but dont insult me.
I think this is one of Bruce's first post on this thread.... "No tuning is a waste of time. If done correctly paper tuning is just as effective as walk back, BH, group, french or any other tuning method. Any tuning process, done incorrectly, is a waste of time. Proper form, or lack of, affects all tuning methods. An improperly set up bow and/or arrow will affect all tuning methods. That guy you saw is why I don't go to "pro" shops." So what is the hang up? Looks like you both believe it has it's place in tuning.
Quite the read here. Paper tuning Is a very good method of tuning and very productive when done correctly.
This is whats nice about archery , there are many opptions and oppinions , i for one paper tuned for years with no reason to stop , i just do a good bench set up to my previous set up then a french tune and a walk back tune , with no issues , then walk back tune with fixed blades and field points , when i'm finished my bows shoot field points , expandables and fixed blades directly with each other , like i mentioned there is no right or wrong way if paper tuning is the only way you want to tune your bow thats great , i have for years but shooting and adjusting to get perfect bullet holes , to only move the rest to broadhead tune is a waste of time , thats why i french tune first then walk back . Thats just my oppinion , i'm not saying whats right or wrong thats just what i do and works for me
Okay i am new to this so cut me a little slack. What is french tuning and how is it done?. I don't quite have the ability to walk back tune yet.
sight the bow for 8 to 10 yards. Then place an orange dot at the top of the target and shoot an arrow into the dot from that distance , I also put a strip of tape using a level down the target from the center of my orange dot , Leave the arrow in the target and go back to 35 yards and shoot at the same dot with the same sight pin. If the arrow appears to fly erratically, it is probably hitting the arrow rest. To make a correction, move the nocking point up 1/8 inch. With a clean arrow flight, the target points will hit low. If the low arrows are left of the perpendicular line from the top arrow, move the rest to the right. If they are to the right, move the rest left. Repeat this process until they are directly below the top group of arrows.
sounds easy enough. I will have to try this and see how good my paper tune job was. Thank you for the information Just checking but walk back basically has the same type of deal only you shoot at each distance as you move back and see how your arrows impact right?
I just got back in from french tuning and resighting my pin back to the 25yrd mark and this was the result.
Good deal !! thats why i use and mentioned french tuning it will put you right where you need to be with little to no effort
i would put in that effort to replicate this result day in and day out. broadhead tune looked great too. needed no adjustment from what i could tell.
The problem with paper tuning is that it takes more time, its much more complicated for the same or possibly poorer results & is a pain to set up. walk back tuning is easy.. shoot at the line then move the rest where you want the arrow to go. paper tuning is done at 10 yards or less, its just showing how the arrow is coming out of the bow, it dose not show how it's going to be flying at 30-40 yards away, thats why IMO walk back tuning is fare better.
I can paper tune in 5 shots.It is not complicated at all and doesn't take much time if you know what you are doing. Paper tuning is easy.... shoot the paper and move the rest where you want the arrow to go. Paper tuning is done at 5 yards and less. It shows how the arrow leaves the bow, which is important because that affects your arrow flight before the fletching has time to control the arrow, which is what is happening at 30-40 yards away. There is good and bad with every tuning method. The bad far outweighs the good when you don't know to properly utilize a particular tuning method.
That makes cents, I did not really think of it like that.. thats interesting I thourght paper tuning was done bare shaft? & you were just after the bullet hole? could be why I had such trouble with it possibly. and 5 years not 10? sounds like I may have been way off !! Still sticking to walk back but I do stand corrected brucelanthier.
For what it's worth I agree with Bruce. If you arrows aren't coming out of the bow correctly then it doesn't really matter what they're doing at 30 yards. By then you have lost speed and energy from the arrow working to recover. I like to paper tune first. That way I know the arrow is coming out of the bow correctly. Next I go on to french tune, then walk back, then check it on the paper one last time. If all these give you good results, then you have a good tuned bow.
Usually I paper tune as a reference point to begin with. From there I got to walk back tuning. Sometimes, some bows just wan't paper tune, but once walk back tuned, they shoot very well.
