Long story short I have been suffering from sporadic arrow flight. After trying to paper tune, decrease draw weight, and focus on my form nothing got better. Went to the pro shop today and he just centered the rest to my string then my sight. Now my arrows seem to b flying strait and hitting the target level. Any one out there ever hear of paper tuning being a waste of time because that's basically the attitude I got from this guy?
That is the first time I have ever heard of a Tech or anyone at a pro shop say something like that. All of the shops around here paper tune for you or suggest you paper tune. If nothing else shooting through paper tells you exactly what your arrow is doing when it leaves the bow. I am about to paper tune one myself for the first time tomorrow. I have seen a huge improvement any time someone I know has theirs done. using the tools he used probably got it way close but from what I understand, paper tells the truth about your arrow launch.
No tuning is a waste of time. If done correctly paper tuning is just as effective as walk back, BH, group, french or any other tuning method. Any tuning process, done incorrectly, is a waste of time. Proper form, or lack of, affects all tuning methods. An improperly set up bow and/or arrow will affect all tuning methods. That guy you saw is why I don't go to "pro" shops.
Sounds like my best bet is to shoot through paper and see how things appear. My bow only has a single cam with a wheel on the top limb so I am assuming there are no timing issues and the rest position/ nock point are the only real issues when tuning. Is this true?
Also check to make sure arrow spine is correct and there is not any fletching contact with your riser.
X2. Depending where you are standing you can get the result you want from paper tuning. Pro shop love paper tuning because they can show the customer a perfect hole/ tear even if your bow isn't tuned well but they'll charge you for it.
Paper tuning, done correctly, will give you the result you want, a tuned bow and arrow. If you are not "standing" in the correct spot then you are not doing it correctly. If I wanted to, I could walk back tune a bow and arrow and get the result I wanted without actually tuning the bow but that kind of defeats the whole purpose of attempting to tune in the first place, doesn't it?
Bruce. I went out and paper tuned today. Not sure i did it right so just check my process. I shot at 10 yards. eyes closed and focused on form. fletching tailed left so I adjusted the rest right about 1/8". next arrow was a bullet whole. I stepped back 2 yards and shot a bullet whole and the same at 15 yards. Arrows seem to be flying straighter and hitting the target like i think they should. Just goes to show the wealth of knowledge on here and the lack in some shops.
Paper tuning can be like a dog chasing his own tail if you don't understand how it works. I stress that one must know all the ins and outs for it to actually be productive. I for one use it as an initial tool and a final check to see what is happening. But my tuning is done by shooting.
A tear can be caused by torque, timing, spine, wheel/idler/cam lean, multiple rest issues,and fletching contact. There are a few more but I think you get the point. It is not a waste of time but there needs to be an order to things and an understanding of each potential issue.
The same thing happened to me. The shop centered my rest and it was shooting excellent. Then we did a paper tune later on and adjusted my rest left to get bullet holes. From this my broadheads started shooting a 6" left at 40 yrds. I looked down my limb bolts (lined up limb bolts with arrow) and saw my arrow was pointed left. So I brought the rest back to the pre-papertune position and dialed the broadhead and fieldpoint flight back to groups at 40. I think paper tuning does have its advantages (tell if your spine is potentially mismatched) but the broadhead tune work best for myself.
I only paper tune to get close and to set elevation, then its off to real tuning. Walk back, followed by bareshaft. If the cams are straight, timing good, and spine matched to the bow, this should be easy. Cam lean can make this a nightmare to do with false indicators. Fletching contact can also kill you.
sounds to me that paper tuning is only a gateway tune leading to final tuning methods that are about as different as everybody's broadhead preference. Thanks for all the information and insight on how each of you tune.
If your saying walk back tuning isn't tuning your bow you are sadly mistaken. You can't manipulate your arrow impact on a walk back tune like your can doing a paper tune.
I can't torque my bow, have improper form, creep my draw, or just flat out shoot poorly during a walk back tune? Anything that can affect your shot during paper tuning can affect your shot during any other tuning. Paper tuning has its own little idiosyncrasies but, then, so do all other tuning methods.
Walk back tuning takes place using many shots for a grouping at 10,20, and 30 yards and repeating it. This will take out you inconsistency's. Where paper tuning is just a rip on a piece of paper at whatever yardarge you see fit or 16 feet. Your arrow might not ever recover out of your bow by then. This is a good read http://archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/The_Nuts&Bolts_of_Archery.pdf
So your guaranteeing every time you walkback tune, your BH's will shoot straight? Walkback is a good start for target shooters. But most of us here are hunters.
