Unscrew the arrow from the broadhead, screw one or two (preferably two) small hex-head or square nuts onto the broadhead with a small washer in front of those and use a claw hammer to pull it out. I placed a piece of 1X4 under the hammer so that the pressure was straight out. You can pop broadheads and field points out of wood pretty easily this way. Just keep the claws of the hammer away from the threads so you don't damage them.
Most of you know this already, but there may be some that don't. I've seen a lot of broadhead shooting/tuning threads in my time on the forums and so many times spin testing for broadhead concentricity isn't brought up. In my opinion spin testing your arrow/broadhead combination is just as critical as making sure your bow is tuned when it comes to shooting broadheads. If you screw on a broadhead and it's pointed off to the left when you nock the arrow it won't matter how well your bow is tuned because that arrow is going to fly a little wild. This doesn't apply only to fixed blade heads either. When I shot Grim Reapers a few years ago I found out that even that small mechanical head profile is enough to steer the arrow off course if the broadhead is mounted crooked. The article that Fitz posted above addresses it and lists the Pine Ridge Archery Arrow Inspector as a tool to use to spin test your arrows. That's the one I have and you can buy that very one on this website, somewhere else or you can make your own homemade version, but make sure that before you start trying to shoot broadheads you spin test the arrow after you put them on. You'll save yourself a ton of trouble.
I have shot my G5 Montec's out to 30 yards at my target. They hit exactly as my field points do. YOU DON'T NEED TO TUNE THEM as with the Hell Razors too. Also, I didn't want to get involved in the mechanical broadhead issues that fly every-which-way in arguments. But, I did buy, use and killed deer with G5's T3 mechanicals. So I use for my own reasons on tree stand angles Montec's and T3's in my ground blind. The first deer I killed with T3's was a buck at about 8 yards. I nicked his spine and one blade broke off from hitting the bone. I guess that's not too bad. but I feel safer shooting them in a direct horizontal direction. My Montec's have gone through the shoulder plate on forwarding too shots with my Monster 6.
if you really want to get critical you should know that slick trick are not at all 1 piece as you said , their acctually 4 pieces so yea. they come with the main body of the head, 2 blades, and a ring to hold it all together. slick tricks acctually break quite often as the blades are very sharp, but they do break. that is the reason the company made very cheap replacment blades. so if your looking to shoot a stronger long lasting 1 piece broadhead, slick tricks arent the answer, nap hellrazors or g5 montecs would be what u need.
I love my muzzy mx4's. No problems ever, fly same as my field tips. Although I tend not to shoot trees or the ground either.
Yes, technically Slick Tricks are four pieces, but I'm sure what he was referring to when he said "one piece" was the ferrule itself and not the entire broad head. A Slick Trick ferrule is one solid piece of steel, not aluminum with a screw-in steel trocar tip. As to your statement that they break quite often, I can't say for certain that you're wrong, but I can say that the ONLY Slick Trick I've had break was one that hit a granite rock after a pass through, and no broad head will stand up to that. Regarding your statement that their replacement blades are "cheap", however, I'll come right out and say that you are wrong. Their replacement German made Solingen blades that are the same very high quality scary sharp blades that come with the broad heads. I don't know where you got your information, but you might want to check your sources.
I dunno. Every time I shoot a deer I end up shooting the ground, but the arrow is always bloody by the time it gets there. :D Well, I did spine one year before last so that one didn't make it to the ground.
True, but I've ruined more than one broad head on a pass through into rocky ground. Then again, with last year's set-up (530 grain arrow out of a 70# bow with a 29" draw) my arrows were still moving pretty darned fast after passing through an average size whitetail.
If you know how to tune a bow and tune it properly then it doesn't matter. Fixed blades will fly just like field points.
True... it does take some time and proper arrow spine and balance. Most bow shops (none that I have experienced) are not going to take the time to do all this for you. That's part of the allure of bowhunting... and part of the frustration... its just the way things are in bowhunting. Mechs may be an acceptable temporary alternative but in the end, the tinkering will be rewarded with great flight with any quality head, fixed or mechanical. I usually carry several different heads in my quiver and know that either of them will get the job done... so I don't mind wasting a bent up tip on a coyote, rabbit or fox squirrel.
FWIW, I don't think all mechanicals are alike. If you are worried about them not opening, go to YouTube and watch some test done on grim reaper broad heads. You can also type in grim reaper kills and watch a pass through where the blades deployed in a does ear. If they open on an ear, well, you know they will open on hide. They have never failed me and all critters dropped within 40 yards.
This seems to be a really fair test on a number of mechanicals. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3AygnFKjl8&feature=channel&list=UL
This video also...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0Ec3HLpx_U&feature=channel&list=UL 60 degree angle failure shots.
