Im looking to get rid of my mech broadheads and go to a fixed. Looking at going to muzzy three blade. But im hesitant, because i dont know how to tune a fixed. There was not much to it with the mech becuase they flew like my field points. Any sugguestions on how to tune these, and is it worth it? Im just tired of mech broahead failing. I have shot rage and G5. Thanks for any input.
My muzzy 3 blades shoot just like my field points with little problem. They will shoot great from a well tuned bow.
When I used my Muzzy MX-3s they flew just like my field points but I didn't like the construction of them since I broke half of them before the season even started. Two broke from hitting trees during practice. The last one broke when I missed a doe last season and it hit the roots of a tree behind her. I am going to the Slick Tricks this year with the one piece ferrule, they seem to be built much stronger and are much sharper out of the box than the muzzys I used. I haven't stuck anything with a Slick Trick yet so we'll see how they perform.
If the broadheads hit high, low, left or right of field tips, move the rest very slightly towrd the field tip. My bow shoots the same with almost any broadhead with very slight impact elevation changes occurring with different weights. I have shot Muzzy for years and have shot a few mechanicals but have never had one fail and have found them all pretty tough to break.
Dgable not trying to pick a fight with you, but I dont think you hitting tree's and tree limb's is the broadhead's fault for failure. What happen's to a bullet when you shoot it at a steel plate? It does one of 3 thing's, completely mushrooms flat, disenegrates depending on how fast the bullet was traveling, or if the target is very very far away and hits at an angle, it will mushroom on the side that hit and glide off. Now think of that for your bow. The tree being the metal plate and the arrow the bullet. Get my drift? With as fast as your arrow is probablly going and then hitting something completely solid and stopping im surprised your arrow itself was not harmed bent or frayed (i say bent or frayed because i do not know if you use carbon or aluminum). Just some food for thought, I mean hell look what happens to a biker's head when they dont wear a helmet and crash at a high speed or run into something.
Failing as in HOW? Just curious what you mean when you say that. My whole family shoots Rage 3blade and haven't had any problems with them what-so-ever. My Dad even shoots them from his crossbow with no ill effects
Your right, but the velocity difference between a bullet and an arrow are significant. If you look how the ferrule is designed on the Muzzy vs the Slick Trick then you will see what I mean. I still have my broken heads but no pictures while I'm at work. The threaded part of the ferrule where the chisel point screws on is what broke, right in the middle of the threads on the tip of the head and it left the chisel point in the tree that I missed the doe on. The Slick Trick is all one piece so you don't have the fine threads to take the impact. I'm not saying for sure that the Slick Tricks will hold up better, but to my engineering educated mind it looks that way.
Honestly I dont even know how you are able to recover your broadhead's out of a tree. Because when I was 15, using muzzy's with my first bow after a day of not seeing anything and walking back to the house. I shot a tree for the hell of it. And unless I chopped that tree down there was no recovery of the broadhead.
I have Rage 2-Blades and Muzzy MX4's. I just make sure my bow is tuned enough to where all my points hit the same spot so I can use anything if I want. I'm down to try anything, really. Just get a good tune on your bow and you can shoot whatever you want.
I'm not getting into the broadhead debate, there's a ton of that you can read on this site or others. I will say, I've used four blade 100 gr Muzzy's for the last 6 years and have had no problems with their performance. My buddy uses the 100 gr three blade with the same results. Another friend uses nothing but Slick Tricks and has zero complaints. Our bows are tuned well and shoot mechanicals, fixed heads and field points pretty much the same. I've shot plenty of mechanicals at hogs and have had good success much of the time. I've also seen them fail by opening in the quiver, opening in flight, not opening at all, blades breaking on impact and after entering the animal. In my opinion, anything that is mechanical can fail at some point. That's why I prefer to shoot fixed heads. If I were going to shoot mechanicals I prefer the NAP heads.
I can't count the number of times I've read people saying their mechanical heads opened in flight. How do you know? I can't imagine having such good eyesight that I could watch an arrow and see the head open in flight. That's like a super-power! Holy cow!! And why would you put a bh on your rest, nock it on string, and shoot, WITHOUT looking it over?? Shouldn't that be a prerequisite when hunting? Look your arrow over before you shoot? Oh No! My mech bh came open in the quiver! I can't push it back where it's supposed to be before nocking it. I guess I'll have to just shoot it this way and then have something to blame when I make a bad shot Ridiculous
If you're tuned right, you'll be able to make those fixed heads fly just as well as the mechanicals. Here's a good article to read: http://www.bowhunting.com/publisher...2008/9/2/field-point-accuracy-with-broadheads
The ridiculous part is putting up with that type of mediocrity. I NEVER have to look at my fixed heads before shooting. They will always be exactly as they were when I put them in the quiver. If you want to take the extra time and make the extra movement necessary to fiddle with blades that have popped open while a slob buck is in range, have at it. The blades never shear off my fixed heads and they shoot just like field points. And the penetration is great, even on awkward quartering shots that encounter a lot of bone. Why would anyone even put up with adding one more thing to consider at crunch time. Fixed heads remove the opportunity for "mechanical failure" period. If there is even a 1% chance that a mechanical will screw up what I have waited all year for, it is junk to me. I have also witnessed a friends mechanical head open in flight while target shooting. Call me Superman if it makes you feel better.
Thanks guys, I have had several open while quiver, and I have shot some them go way out in left field like a fighter jet. After the those shots ill go and shot another arrow right behind it, and no failure. I dont like them being unpredicable, i just wanna kill what i shoot, i think a fixed would be the answer. Im not trying to toot my own horn, but i feel like i am prety good shot, not the best by no means, just wanted some insight on fixed beacuse i have no experience with them. Thanks for all the help and suggestions.