Hey there. Hope all the questions are bothering anyone... I was lookin at starting to build some of my own arrows. I have been doing some homework, and I looks pretty doable. All the stuff will probably replace the stuff on my reloading bench. The couple questions I have are, is it worth the accuracy gain to use quick spin, or helical vanes, and how do you ensure all your arrows weigh the same? Can you grind weight off of the inserts to equal out the weights, or make up weight differances in the tips or broadheads your using. Should the broadhead blades and the vanes line up when you look down the shaft, or be offset. What are some of the tools and manufacturers of arrow building accessories you guys use. Arrow flecthers... Besides some being able to do multipule arrows at a time, and others only one at a time, is there one that's better than the other? Any other recomendations would be awsome. Thanks guys, fellow shooter, brian.
I've been using the Jo-Jan multiple fletcher for about a year and it works great. I recently added the helical clamps and use them on my arrows but use the straight clamp on my wifes. I also use One Stringer Arrow Wraps on both my arrows and my wifes. Adds a nice custom touch.
not a fan of quick spins, or helicals on blazers, but i do do my blazers with a straight clamp and an offset. the inserts and knocks are VERY consistant in weight. should just be an assembly deal check out fletch tape instead of glue, the trad guys got me turned onto it , it is way neater and works just as well
I've been doing my own for over 20yrs. I use a Jo-Jan multifletch as well, and I like it. Bitzenburger is a very good one as well, but you can only do 1 arrow at a time. Either would be fine, and there are others as well that people like too. Regarding getting the same weights, you can only do so much. Typically the variation is very little if you do everything the same - and may be in the shafts themselves from the manufacturer. I just did 6 Bemans recently, and the final product 4 of them weighed 446gr, 2 weighed 447gr. Not enough difference to worry about. I weigh all my components first, then again once its all complete. Obviously if you have a dozen arrows that the end result is all the exact same weight, that is a great place to be. Sometimes fp's or bh's weigh a grain more so you can mix and match to even up your weights if need be. I do use helical clamps, and have no issues at all with blazers, fusions, vanetec's, etc. The helical works great, and even in a whisker biscuit. I prefer helical, alot of folks use straight fletched offset. To do it all yourself, imo you will need a fletching jig & high speed cutoff saw at least - and I recommend a digital grain scale. I use a dull razor knife to strip, no fancy tools...though they make some strippers, etc. Glue, fletchings, wraps if you want...and away you go! Oh, and I'd recommend if you know anyone that does their own, have them help you with you first set of arrows. Its much easier to learn having on the job training, than by trial and error. Don't use too much glue, just a light uniform bead...and make sure to prep your shafts well. Its great to be able to fletch your own, and it will pay for the equipment over time no doubt - especially if you do some for your buds now and then. Just the other day, I was shooting broadheads, and stupidly shot 2 at the same dot...cut a fletch off. I stripped it, and refletched it that evening. Good luck :D
As with anything else related to accuracy, consistency is the important ingredient required for success. Once you have determined the correct length for your shafts, have them cut using a professional cutter. Most places will do it for a nominal charge if not for free. If you are using carbon composite shafts, using an arrow squaring device on both ends will aid in broadhead flight. I have played with feathers but converted to the 2 inch Blazer and have been VERY happy with their durability and performance. I practice while it’s snowing and raining (for the actual in-the-field experience…you can’t order perfect weather for hunting) in all temperatures fro the 90’s to 8 degrees and the Blazers take it all. My biggest accuracy issues are related to mosquitoes, not fletching. The only complaint I have with the Blazer is after one has been damaged by another arrow, they get louder than normal, whereas natural feathers seem more resistant to this type of damage. If natural feathers are damaged, part of the feather is usually missing and there seems to be little or no change in flight noise. In both cases accuracy does not seem to be affected greatly. I use the Bitzenberger fletching jig and clamp (helical). It is slow but works. I set a kitchen timer when I’m doing a bunch or shafts at one time (10 minutes each vane). I also use Bohnig’s Fletchtite glue and have found I get better bonding and it does not run like the Cyno-acrylate type adhesives. Bohnig suggests the use of bar Ivory soap to strip any oils from the shaft prior to fletching. Please read their instructions available on-line: http://www.bohning.com/archery/1190.xml You will also have the satisfaction of shooting “custom” ammo and will not be dependent upon someone else for repairs or quality control. It is in my opinion a win-win proposal.
As with anything else related to accuracy, consistency is the important ingredient required for success. Once you have determined the correct length for your shafts, have them cut using a professional cutter. Most places will do it for a nominal charge if not for free. If you are using carbon composite shafts, using an arrow squaring device on both ends will aid in broadhead flight. I have played with feathers but converted to the 2 inch Blazer and have been VERY happy with their durability and performance. I practice while it’s snowing and raining (for the actual in-the-field experience…you can’t order perfect weather for hunting) in all temperatures fro the 90’s to 8 degrees and the Blazers take it all. My biggest accuracy issues are related to mosquitoes, not fletching. The only complaint I have with the Blazer is after one has been damaged by another arrow, they get louder than normal, whereas natural feathers seem more resistant to this type of damage. If natural feathers are damaged, part of the feather is usually missing and there seems to be little or no change in flight noise. In both cases accuracy does not seem to be affected greatly. I use the Bitzenberger fletching jig and clamp (helical). It is slow but works. I set a kitchen timer when I’m doing a bunch or shafts at one time (10 minutes each vane). I also use Bohnig’s Fletchtite glue and have found I get better bonding and it does not run like the Cyno-acrylate type adhesives. Bohnig suggests the use of bar Ivory soap to strip any oils from the shaft prior to fletching. Please read their instructions available on-line: http://www.bohning.com/archery/1190.xml You will also have the satisfaction of shooting “custom” ammo and will not be dependent upon someone else for repairs or quality control. It is in my opinion a win-win proposal. Most agree the blades should be aligned with the string when using a mechanical release and horozontal when finger shooting. This helps prevent planing in the first few feet of flight until rotation begins.
