Since I'm fairly new to archery I'm trying to understand what the purpose / function of a stabalizer. Also , what traits have what effects on the bow during use ( heavier over lighter, short over long, materiels used)m I'm not going to pick one upwith my bow, and try some out to get the right one.
A stabilizer will not only take noise and hand shock out of the bow, it will also "stabilize" the bow at the shot. Meaning it will help counter out the weight depending on what you want and what your bow set up needs.
IMO If your bow is quiet without it... the purpose is probably to sell you something. They can help with weight distribution etc... but if noise and hand shock aren't a problem, you likely don't need one. If hand shock is an issue, you may be gripping incorrectly. I do have a stabilizer (on the bow I shoot now) and the only purpose it serves for me is to hold my wrist strap on and I have a habit of resting my pinky and ring finger on it while I am shooting.
I use a stabilizer to help balance and settle the pin on the bow at full draw while aiming.Especially on a hunting bow.That's why I use the longer 10"to 12" models instead of the useless shorties. Most newer bows don't need the vibration dampening but older ones still might.
Balance, a steady aim, vibration(noise reduction), and hand shock. Go shoot a bow on a windy day out in the middle of a field, or in a tree. Try it with and without a stabilizer. Better yet, shoot with a light weight one, and then a longer heavier stabilizer! You'll see why we NEED THEM for hunting. Accuracy equals meat. Anything you can do to help steady your aim in in-climate weather situations(which you will face while hunting), just means shorter blood trails. Bare in mind, hunting stabilizers are typically a bit of a compromise, often more for noise reduction, and less for weight as we don't want to lug heavy and bulky target style stabilizers and "Y" bars into a treestand as that wouldn't work well in the treestand or blind.
Pretty much this on a hunting bow^. I have noticed there isn't much stabilizing or balancing going on until you get out past 5". I use an 8" NAP Apache. I can tell a pretty decent difference with it as the 8" but, not really any with the 5". That being said, my old bow it help quiet it down and it reduced vibration by over half. My new bow is almost silent and had little to no vibration. With the Apache it has NO vibration at all. At 8" it has gotten in the way. Especially while in a small blind. I haven't had any issues in a stand. At 5" it works great in any situation. My observation is that a GOOD HUNTING stabilizer is more for vibration and hand shock than anything. Using something longer than 8" would be more hurtful than helpful in the situations I personally hunt. I am about to be getting into doing 3D competition soon (as long as everything works out) I am starting out in the hunter class that has nothing over a 35yd shot I believe. I probably wont need anything more than my Apache for that. I can see me buying a longer stabilizer and maybe even a side bar for when I get into the open classes and shooting competitively past 40yd.
with all this being said, if you don't need a stabilizer what do you replace it with to hold your wrist sling on? just a screw? <sorry for the thread hack>
How can a 10" or 12" do more harm than good in a hunting situation? That's all I will use because frankly, shorter than that doesn't help me at all. My bows are quiet and vibration isn't an issue but I love the stabilation they provide. Even in a blind you still have an arrow sticking out past a "long" stabilizer.
All are correct points IMO, with my set up,I prefer, ( prefer! ) more weight for a steady shot and for the ability to quiet the bow. You do have to be selective because some do nothing.
For blind hunting I can kinda see needing a shorter stabilizer if you have a longer draw length. Once drawn it could be nice to not have to worry about the stab hitting the blind but at my 28" draw. I have never had that be an issue.
I never had an issue with my 29" draw and a 12" stabilizer either. I even hunted out of built brush blinds for Turkeys with the 12". Just got to think ahead and do some draw checks to make sure its all clear. I have an 8 on the current Bow but wouldnt be afraid to use a 12 again! May give you a call Todd if I get to KY for some shed hunting this season. Would like to see ya again!
Sounds like fun. Give me a call and i will check the schedule . Maybe there wont be a ball game going at that time.
Everyone here has good points but I perfer an 8in stabilizer. But like big guille said some don't do much of nothing. So try some out if you're interested.
The stabilizer hole is for nothing but attaching your bowfishing rig, time to move on until next October.
I really hope you don't have an arrow sticking out farther that the stinking stabilizer at full draw man. Its never a problem until you are at full draw trying to get lined up for the shot. I din't say it was an issue manuvering the bow around in the blind just when at full draw. Lets say you are 28" draw. you are going to have a minimum of 32" sticking out from your body. Add another 20" or so behind you. That right there is 52" now put 12" on there and you are looking at 64". most blinds have aaround a 60"x60" foot print. Try manouvering 64" around in a 60" area without it getting in the way. Now take that same bow with 5". Thats 57". A lot more manouverable. I have had this issue this past season. I used a 5" in the blind and it worked great. My personal opinion is "I" don't need a 12" stabilizer on a hunting bow. It would just get in my way.
