Info on strings The most common thing is care. a. inspect and clean and wax the string. inspect and replace if any defects or broken strands. wax and burnish, burnish the wax into the string this is but taking a leather strap rubbing it up and down the string to create heat and melt it into the strands. b. types of string material. 8190 is used for speed it has creep and stretch 452x is general purpose no stretch and no creep Trophy is general and hunting no stretch and no creep (creep is when the fibers pull apart. stretch is when all the strands become equal in length.Thus a pre-stretched string has no peep rotation) c. Strings don't last forever general shooting replace every 2 to 3 years target shooters every 1 to 2 years d. Accessories speed nocks for the extra speed string silencers slows the string down e. Center serving should allow the nock to fit snugly, not tight. The arrow should fall of the string when hanging and the bow is tapped. Remember a well maintained string will help your bow preform excellent. More questions try out this link:http://www.bcyfibers.com/FAQs.php Hutch
When ordering a custom string! Put a little thought into your order. 1. Speed or not (slower by more quiet)? If you order a string the material makes a difference. But the one thing people forget, how many strands you have in your string makes a difference. For instance: if I ordered a string made of BCY trophy Material. This material is able to be built with 20 - 24 strands. With less strands lets say 20, I will pick up some speed from the string. Reason less strands reduces friction and less friction the string can cut the air faster. *standard strands on any string are usually the maximum strands. 2. So ask questions before you order. I would think of what purpose I am using the bow for (hunting, target, both) and decide on the string material and the strand count. 3.Older bows, some are not designed for speed. This is because they are not as high tech. But you can get a few more feet per second out of them. If you change a few things. Like the string material and the strand count. * also the lengths of the servings were a lot longer than needed. Remeasure and shorten them, and let your string maker know the new measurements.
Center servings: here is where a lot of archer's miss the shot. Before I started building strings I thought the center serving had to be real tight. Almost to the point if you turned the arrow the string will move with it. Wrong! The arrow nock should fit on snugly, without force. Clip on clip off gently. *In most cases when you get a manufactured string the center serving is too tight. After a few shots say 1000. The center serving wears and a sweet spot forms so the arrow nock fits perfectly. Problem! it thins the center serving. Which in turn lets the center serving shift or premature breakage. Fixes: a tighter center serving, a smaller diameter center serving, a different arrow nock, or a light file with an emery board Hutch
One thing guys I forgot to mention in ordering a string set. Halo serving is a braided serving it is a stronger and more gripping. It comes in clear or colors 3d serving is the standard it is twisted and holds under normal conditions. So when you order if you have any problem areas with serving you may want to order halo. Hutch
Just something I was thinking about when I was building strings. For you guys that Serve your Center serving. To eliminate peep rotation, you need to serve your center serving with the twist of the string. That being said you need to serve it in the same direction the twist is going. Example: The string is twisted clockwise from the bottom of the string. So you need to serve your center serving clockwise toward the top of the string. End Twisted>>>>>this way>>> toward you>>>> you need to serve the same direction toward you. Just thought you would like that info Hutch
Great info thanks! A lot of people dont think it really depends on what string you well they are wrong! Awesome that you know so much about strings, and cool of you to explain to archers the differences, im sure it is helpful to many! (i need a new string in the spring!)
One issue. A few strands or material difference equates to less than 10 fps in most all cases. Usually around 5 fps. This equates to zero in the real world, even in the 3-d world . Its time people learn this. The stability of a string is of much more importance than one that gives you 5-10 fps. When it comes to wax, it's a catch 22. Yes, it will make a string last longer and for a hunter in hunting situations. (Weather) wax is a must. But, don't overdo it. DON'T WAX AFTER EVERY SHOOTING SESSION. Also, use a high quality wax. For a target shooter, wax will cause inconsistencies from shot to shot.( Wax build up ). There is a compromise that needs to be reached. Do not over wax but keep enough wax in the string so it won't snap. Replace string at least once a year and don't be overly concerned with wax. Especially when competing in long distance archery. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
tfox is correct when it comes to waxing. I always followed the rule of only waxing when the string gets "fuzzy", usually about once a month if I do a lot of shooting. I also do my best to remove as much of the outside "skin" of wax from the string as possible before applying the new wax. Do this by taking a piece of serving thread, wrapping it around the string once and pulling tightly. Then slide it up and down the string to skim the old wax off. This helps remove the dirt, etc from the string that sticks to wax. I shoot quite a bit with my hunting setup and change strings every other year if I keep the bow that long. Just keep a good eye on them and regular, routine maintenance will make them last and perform well. I'm with tfox about string stability over fps. There is NOTHING more maddening than a string that doesn't settle and is constantly in motion. For me, the strings on my bows are the most important "accessory" I put on. Buying a $900 bow and putting cheap strings on it doesn't make sense. They're what holds the bow together, keeps it timed and sync'd and holds your peep (rear sight) at the exact location. Don't skimp!
Muzzy man and Tfox both bring great comments to the board. Completely agree with them about trading stability for a few FPS and over waxing. On the other hand If built correctly there are not many high quality materials on the market today that are not stable. We have had good luck with both 8190 and 452x/trophy.
8190 is stable but it will creep over time. 452x or trophy will not. It breaks first.:what: I really like trophy. Personally, I prefer to give up the useless couple fps, even in 3-d for rigging that doesn't creep. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
I too truly love trophy 99% of my customers ask for it. I also understand extra fps is not that important. But for shorter draw people it is a benefit to be able to get a little more. For long draw and average its not so important. 5 to 10 fps for a person with a 26" dl is a help. Hutch
20 fps at 40 yards equates to about 1/2" on a 3 yard misjudged yardage at 280 fps to 260 fps. Both are out of the 10. My basic point about speed in 3-d is if your not judging yardage right, your not winning. IMO, get your speed somewhere else. The rigging is too critical. With hunting, a deer doesn't care. I also have a 14 year old son. His draw length is 25" and he is shooting 45# right now . I've tested drop on his bow too and 5-10 fps doesn't do anything for it either . Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
Great info! I have been curious about how to go about getting new strings and what the differences were in them.
