Myself, no. I have however collected over the past two years more research into the single beveled design of broadheads than probably anything else....the only reason I haven't bought some is the best made ones are like the Solid pricing around $70-$120 for 3 typically. Cheaper versions exist, but the ones I would desire to shoot are the more expensive ones I find (Dirt Nap Gear does have a new one I am interested in). Anyways, the science of how the broadhead has to interact when striking bone is just incredible....numerous studies have been done, documented and captured...things simply pry and split bone better than any design. It is true they don't cause the massive amount of flesh wounds on pass throughs that miss or only hit ribs...but man you nick a shoulder bone or hit it head on the things are flat out nasty effective! I have 3 hunting friends from Michigan that use them and the one guy has said he hasn't yet but wouldn't hesitate taking a shot right through a shoulder blade with the things after seeing what it has done with some quartering away shots that impacted and broke through the opposite shoulder blade (wish I had pics to prove but don't). This heads look great though, and they are no doubt made SOLID (pun not intended). These will kill deer with the best of them for sure, I have no doubt and would do better with bone impacts than a lot of the mass marketed heads out there.
Sounds like you have your head in Ashbys articles, I have read them all as well, in tedium. I have also used single bevel heads, on elk, deer and bear and pigs. Nothing magic about them. In fact they have negatives associated with them, just like any other design. Your not missing anything.
Ashby and others. I fully agree with the statement I bolded...lots of people don't realize this to be true, and in my opinion is about EVERYTHING in the product world. Slicks have performed so well for me I simply haven't been able to put them down. I will admit the single bevel design with side bleeder blades to me seems to be a touch more in the right direction as to me the two side blades (albeit small) do lesson one of the negatives about single beveled heads to me and that is total cutting edge(s).
And.....after this thread...I have now added Solid to my potentials....either will be STs again or probably these (I am a fan of their design) or Dirt Nap Gear's....
The design for the bleeder blades is impressive. They are attached to not come out. I shot the old bear two blades with bleeder blades, believe me this is nothing like that.
I never liked bleaders, too many bad experiences with them in the past, like the old razor heads..they weren't stable, some caused wobble and most weren't affixed solidly ...in short not very use full. These bleeder like you said ....addressed those issue and solved them. Did you notice the back cut on ALL the edges? Big positive in my mind when things go bad......
I might pick one up next order I place just to play with it. For touch ups I use a F.**** diamond hone in the finest grit they make...works great to knock an edge on anything already properly sharpened. That said a strop is something i should have also.
Compare the bleeder construction of the Dirt Nap ones and these? As I haven't seen either actually in my hands directly.
The bleeders are held in the same way using an inverse slot to main blade. So if you where looking at the ferrules the blade slots on both of them would be opposite each other creating an X, with the bleeder slot at the top and the blade slots at the bottom( base). Downward pressure is applied from the main blade to the bleeder which stops at the ferrule. Its all held in place by a fairly large set screw that goes though the base of the ferrule.
Main difference and the price difference between Dirt Naps and Solids come from two places. First is the main blades: Solids are S30V one of the better stainless steels available to knife makers due to the hardness that it can be tempered to app 60 RC ....anyone who know Chris Reeve knives knows he worked with it a ton. It holds an edge big time because of the high vanadium carbide content it contains, .....you end up with a very "hard refined edge" is the common term we use for it......Its not an easy steel to work with and that adds cost for its performance. Dirt nap uses 420J2 stainless, which isnt considered by anyone to be good blade steel. It used because of the expense or lack there of. The Maximum hardness is about 54rc, but if your using it for the expense you would never take that time and money to get it that hard, at most your looking at 46-48 rc. It take an easy edge for the most part but doesn't hold it well, and because its not very hard its unlikely to break. In short its a poor steel for blade making and something to stay clear of for that purposes. The second difference is the ferrules, Dirt Nap uses aluminium while solids are steel.
This is what has me possibly leaning to them....does Solid offer a model in single bevel or just double?
Double as far as I know. I don't know if there is any inclination towards a single bevel, they just came out with a 175 grain and that would have been a good platform for it.
Yes it would have...but that just sold me if I don't get Alaskan's single bevel 175....this is the one. Thanks for the great thread guys!
i really want these, but man, the price is just way too steep. i like quality, but more than that, is the amount of value. i like my slick tricks, and for what i pay for them, i'm happy. (this coming from a guy who hurt his own pockets by getting a hoyt cst lol) if i happen to find some extra money lying around, i'll definitely spring for these. they do look like the superior head.
