Any thoughts on the differences between the different types of cams available on the different bows? Pros/cons of one vs others? Tune-ability? Peep/d-loop/kisser getting misaligned on single cam? My thoughts (not based on any facts, just my gut feeling) are that having two cams slaved off one another is the best approach. The reason behind this is that it seems the string would travel in a path that is equidistant to both tips and one end of the string isn't pulling more than the other. Am I over thinking this and making it out to be more of an issue than it really is?
If this is based on thoughts and opinions and I am guessing that is what you want, I would have to agree with you. Since I started shooting I always wondered how the single cam bows could be as effective and efficient as a bow that has 2 cams. I like you feel that one side would pull more than the other. This seems that it would cause the nocking point to change its angle as the string moved forward. To me it seems that a dual cam bow (given it is in timing) would keep the nocking point in the center throughout the draw cycle making it more efficient and effective. Personally I prefer the way a dual cam bow draws over a single cam bow.
Yes, based on what I *think* I want, unless someone can tell me there is absolutely no difference in nock travel and no other issues with a single cam. Then again, if there are negatives to a dual cam that outweigh the positives, I would like to learn of those as well to make sure I make the best decision for me.
I definitely prefer 2 over 1 in every bow I've ever shot and that's an extensive amount of bows over 30 plus years.
I love these kinds of debates. I always learn something from someone more knowledgeable. I believe dual cams or the latest hybrid cams have better inherent nock travel than do single cams. However, as you will notice on most solo cams these days, the idler wheel is quite large. This helps nock travel on these bows. However, you have to realize one important fact. We are not pulling from the center of the string. The nocking point on any given bow should be lined up or close to the berger hole in the riser. This is above the true center of the bow string by a couple of inches at least. The true center of the string is actually in line with the throat of your grip. Now, when you draw the bow, the top and bottom limbs are actually fighting against each other because we're pulling more from one side of the center of the string than the other. We have more leverage to flex the bottom limb than the top because we're pulling from farthest away from the bottom limb on the string. This is easy to see for yourself. Hang your bow by the grip and clip your release on the string loop. Now, pull a bit on the string as if you were drawing the bow. The top limb should come back toward you before the bottom. If you're really patient and have some equipment to do it, you can adjust the limb bolts to even this out. More or less, you'll take a half turn out of the top limb to even this pressure out. I can't comment on singles or cam 1/2 systems, but I can say that there is a lot of adjustability and tuneability in the binary cam system.
I am a binary cam guy but all cam types have inherent strengths and weaknesses. It just makes more sense to me that keeping everything equal on both ends of your bow lends itself to better stability and equal stresses throughout your bow. As far as what muzzyman88 says about not pulling from the center of the string I am either not comprehending or I cannot agree as I just measured the nocking point on my 101st airborne and it is dead center on the string while the nock point on my wifes' Passion is slightly above center.
kanbm, I'm not familiar with that bow. I know the string center on my Allegiance, as well as the Hoyts I've had were roughly around the throat of the grip. I'm referring to the absolute center of the string in comparison to the cams. For example, measure from the top axle to your nock point, then do the same from the bottom axle. The measurements will be different with it being longer from the bottom axle. If you have a bow that is 33" ATA, for example, the center of the string should be 16 1/2" roughly.
I have an Oneida Kestrel (lever limb bow) so maybe it's comparing apples to oranges but if I measure the distance from either end of the string, the nocking point is dead center. I'm looking at getting a second (different type of) bow and was considering a Bowtech but the shop that is closest to me (and the only one I go to) has just about every brand EXCEPT Bowtech. The other day I held a Carbon Element and it felt good in my hand. I wasn't thinking of buying a new bow at the time so didn't bother shooting it or any others but it's getting to that point now, which is what leads me to ask about the different cam systems. Thanks for the replies so far; I find all of this very interesting.
muzzyman88, that is exactly what I did on both of the bows (101st airborne by bowtech and a passion by mathews) the nock point on the bowtech is dead center the single cam bow (passion) is only differing by less than 1/2"
kanbm, now you gone and done it. I'm curious now. Are the "newer bows", as in newer than my 07 Allegiance designed differently? They must have changed the geometry of the riser to slide the center of the string to the berger hole area. I'll have to take a trip to the shop to check this out now.
muzzyman, I do not know the answer to that question. I got restarted in bowhunting in 08 after a 30 year absence. Maybe I am measuring differntly than you are.
Not sure kanbm. I haven't had a chance to take a tape measure to any new bows yet, just to confirm. Where are all the experts around here?
