Ok, the bow has been giving me fits this whole summer and no shops around here know didly squat about fixing the darn issue so my last resort I am coming here haha Here is the issue: I shoot a Hoyt Kobalt with 25 inch draw at 47-50 pounds with victory Vforce 600's. I have tried everything under the sky to get my arrows to fly the same with broadheads and field tips all summer and it just doesnt want to happen for me! I tried buying a new rest, I had a ripcord but after I moved the darn thing to the right so far that it wouldnt go anywhere else I gave up and also the fletchings kept hitting it and I figured that could contribute to the broadheads not flying consistent. I bought the trophy taker, fletchings still hitting it and broadheads still aint flying right. I dont know what else to do in the arrow rest department. Now I am considering the spine in the arrow...people said i was overspined some said i was perfect...I give up! I want to get new arrows and give up on the darn victorys cuz even my field tips dont fly good with them. I shot probably 40 arrows and i have my arrows numbered and each arrow did the same thing each time. One hit low, one hit right, 2 flew left and 2 were dead on each time. Ok folks so pretty much to sum it up, I want to stick with my Muzzy Broadheads and I aint switching to mechanicals. I had carbon express arrows last year and they flew amazing. So I need input...cuz the bow is about to be thrown and I have no good help around this area cuz they all dont have a clue what they are talking about haha HELP!!!!!:D:D
Start over, center the rest & bare tune. See how that pans out. It'll either work or tell you there are spine issues. I'm sure some others will chime in with suggestions as well.
I had the same problems as you are having. All the pro-shops I went to around me looked at me like I was dumb when I said I was trying to broadhead tune to get my BHs and FTs to impact together: they all told me it couldn't be done. So I did what I could by myself, and even though I never got my problem completely worked out, I got closer with the arrows I'm currently using. If you want to try new arrows, I'd try southshorearcherysupply.com. I just checked out their site and noticed that they started selling single arrows so that you can try different arrows to what works best for your setup. Pretty cool idea in my opiniong. Anyways, I just ordered a longer arrow which I'm hoping will help correct my problem. Even though I'm still trying to get mine figured out, the guys on here should be able to help you get everything set.
Jenna do you have any of your old arrows left over from last year? If so it might be worth re-shooting them just to see if you can get them back to shooting the same? It may eliminate the possibility of it being the arrows problem?
I get that you don't want to try mechanicals but for what reason? That's the main reason I switched to the Rage. As for the arrows, try the CE Maximas. They're a little on the pricy side but fly great. You could probably drop down to the 250 and pick up quite a bit of speed. I personally think 600 is a bit on the heavy side but it's got to be an arrow that YOU like so mybe buying the individuals would be a good idea until you find what you want. It sucks you don't have a good shop around but with these guys help, you'll get it right. I could never get my fixed blades to fly like my field points and after losing 2 deer on shots that really felt RIGHT when I hit the release I switched. Good luck and sorry I couldn't be more help. Josh
Alright here's the deal... Rybo is exactly right, get the specs for center shot on your bow. Place your arrow in the rest and measure with a tape measure from the inside of the riser face to the center of the arrow. This should get you super close for your center shot. Next, your arrows are definitely not overspined, you are on the borderline of needing a 500 as opposed to a 600. In fact depending on what weight head you're shooting, you're closer to being underspined. What head weight are you shooting? As for the fletching contact, it sounds like you're rest may be coming up too early and therefor falling too late which would cause the contact. Make sure that the rest doesn't come up until you're only a couple of inches from full draw. Great call on not switching to mechanicals!! Fixed blade is what you need for your setup. Give us a little more info and I'll try to help some more. I've attached a link to the the Easton Tuning guide as well. Scroll to the page about broadhead tuning and follow it to a "T". Don't worry about any of the other info in there for the time being, it could cause some huge frustrations. :D http://www.thearcher.com/resourceCentre/itemDetails.cfm?itemId=2
Josh, You don't get anything if you didn't see what her Drawlength and draw-weight were!!!! She doesn't have near enough energy to be shooting a RAGE!!!! FIRST AND FOREMOST, you need to eliminate any and all contact issues that you're having. If you're having CONTACT, you're not going to have GOOD ARROW FLIGHT, or at least you won't have good arrow flight with BH's about 99% of the time. I hear that you're set on Muzzy's, but newer Muzzy's were more INCONSISTENT than my cheap Eastman's (now Carbon Express) Wal-Mart BH's when I shot them a couple years ago. If you have good FP flight, but the BH's won't do anything anywhere near "consistent," that sounds like a contact issues, use a little lipstick (the only time a MAN should ever use it) for something other than it's intended use and line the bottom edge of your vanes, and shoot an arrow, you'll know real quickly if you're getting contact, which I think we know you are, but it may also tell you HOW MUCH contact you're getting. The Whisker Biscuit may not be such a bad idea in all honesty, if you can't get that rest timed right. I still want to see a pic of your bow and rest though. No actually she's a LOT closer to needing a .700, with a .670 showing on OT2, which was about the same Todd got, I'm guessing since he also recommended the option of going with a .700 series arrow.
The only reason I was suggesting the Rage is because of their 40K line. I'm not an expert on this but just saying what has been working great for me and thought this might help some of her consistancy issues.
She doesn't have even close to 40KE. That's why she said "Don't say Mechanicals," because she KNOWS that's not a real viable option.
btw a chick that small (25" draw) pullin 50lbs is damned impressive lol i would even trade the muzzys in for some slick tricks or COC heads.
Sorry if I offended you. As stated above, I'm no expert. Just a guy who likes to shoot and is trying to offer a few suggestions. I thought that's what these forums are all about.
Jennas pretty smart about these things. She knows what and what wont work on her bow. Im going to say theres an arrow issue here. Id like to see her try her old arrow and see how they fly. Also the contact check with the lipstick is a great idea.
I shot Trophy Taker for 5 years and found it to be an excellent rest so I don't think your problem is there. My fiance shot a Hoyt Selena from 06 until this spring when we both bought Admirals, and she could never get the Selena dialed in until I switched her from a WB to a Trophy Taker. Even after the TT was installed things still weren't exactly right, and being she had proper spine on her arrows it came down to changing out her strings to custom 452X pre-conditioned and it became like a new bow. I know several people have had some problems with Fuse strings in the last couple of years I don't know why, but I'd look at whether they need to be replaced. I would have agreed with going to a 500 spine too for you being Kimberley shoots a 25" draw and 55 pounds on her Admiral without any tuning issues. I also think I would go with a LimbDriver rest for ease of setup and tuning at least in IMO. Moving on to your BH problem, I too would suggest going to a Slick Trick as Kim had shot Magnus Stingers for 3 years, and we could never get them to impact with her fp's so last year I switched her over to the Slick Trick standards. I wanted to put her in the new Razor Trick last year, but I just couldn't get my hands on them in time for season let alone being able to shoot with them before season, but the standards flew perfectly and she killed her first deer with a bow. I shot Rocky Mountain Advantage heads for years before going to the Tricks when they hit the market as the Advantage were being discontinued. I tried Muzzy, and the pro shop I deal with we tried spin testing every Muzzy in his shop, and there was a wobble in every single one regardless of what we did. I think in many ways Muzzy's quality has suffered from selling to Wal Marts and producing such huge quanities much the same way ThunderHead did or even Remington ammo. I'm not bashing these products in any way to start a war just simply stating what I've experienced but with the guys around here I'm sure your problems will be short lived.
Been there done that. Have you tried mech broadheads. Get the same grain as your field points and you may be very suprised at the results.You sound like you have tried everything else so why not try this. I was shooting all summer with fieldpoints and when ever i would switch over to 3 blade broadheads Iwas all over the place. Tried all the things you tried even paper tested my arrow flight. Nothing helped. I found the answer... Mechanical Broadheads. Shoot just like your field points. Please try this.
If your Fixed blades are not hitting with your Field points there is most likely a tuning issue here.
Jenna, if you don't get things figured out on your own have you tried Stenger's in Addyston ? It's across the river and west on US 50. I haven't been there but I've heard good things about him from several people. http://www.stengerarchery.com/
