So guys, I'm looking to switch from my Rages to a fixed blade broadhead. Currently I shoot 100 gr heads, but I was wondering if I should switch to 125 gr or not. I shoot 29.5" Cabelas Stalker Xtreme .340 arrows, 9.3 gpi, with nockturnals and blazer vanes. Would there be any improvement in performance by switching? I'm also thinking about changing to feathers for next season, if that would change anything. I shoot a Bear Lights out, 30" draw, and 70 lb draw weight. I'm looking to get the best possible hunting arrow, but I just don't know enough about the technical side yet. Thanks ahead of time.
If any thing I think the 125 gr. broadheads are better with nockturnals to offset the addional weight in the rear end. But I shoot a 27" arrow. Everyone that knows me says I have t-rex arms cause I have a 28" draw and I am 6' 2". What distances are you comfortable shooting at? I think you get a little bit better accuracy on those windy days. You could also try a 4 fletched blazer. Have you ran the numbers to see how it effects your FOC and what not?
Cole, in all honesty I would leave it like it is. You have plenty of energy to blow through a whitetail. By switching to a fixed head you should pass through every deer you shoot no problem. Were you getting pass throughs with the Rages? I shoot the spitfire maxx normally and every deer I shot with them was a pass through. With that said, I went on a black bear hunt this past August and I switched to a fixed blade. I shot my bear with the NAP nightmare. It was a good quartering away shot and hit ribs going in and coming out. I exited out the shoulder of a mature black bear no problem. I also shot a doe this year quartering away with the nightmare and got a complete pass through no problem. Arrow was in the dirt a good 4 to 5 inches. If you stay at 100 grains and switch to a fixed head that should be one solid hunting arrow and penetration will not be an issue on whitetail sized game.
Oh, penetration is not an issue at all, even with the Rages. The last doe I shot was at 35 yards, and the arrow was roughly 4" into the ground. I have never not had a complete pass through Heckler- I'm the exact opposite. I'm not even 6' tall really, but my fingertip to fingertip measurement is 6'6" I haven't ran any numbers, just because I have been so busy with this torture institution they call college. I guess my real question is, what would be the absolute best arrow configuration (performance wise) for me? 100 gr with blazers? 125 gr with feathers? 125 gr with blazers? etc... Thanks for the replies, guys.
I would do anything but go with feathers. To me it's just not worth it IMO. They don't fly right when they wet, big probs when they freeze, and they are not as durable. It just comes down to having more variables. As far as the 100 Vs. 125 fixed broad head I think you will have equal results in most situations.
Alright, I don't know what I will end up doing. I have a problem with always screwing with stuff that is fine I just want to have some sweet fletching configurations, I'm kind of like that sometimes
Feathers fly just fine when they are wet, no fletching flys well when frozen with ice and while they may not as durable as a vane they are not far off but, the nice thing is, when damaged with even half the fletch missing they still fly just fine.
IMO a 12% FOC or better is good for hunting. You have no penetration issues so you don't really need to do anything to help penetration. I do think that a setup with good FOC, good arrow weight and moderately fast speed is a much more forgiving setup. Going to feathers will help the FOC right off but it will also make your arrow weight lighter. If you are borderline weak in spine then you may notice some flight issues too. You could switch to feathers and change to a 125 grain tip but you will defintely have to re tune your setup. I think you may be OK with your current arrow length but, if anything, you may have to cut the arrow a little shorter, due to moving more weight up front and less off the back. I would change one arrow and see how it does but make sure the arrow is one that flys real well now.
Alright, thanks for the insight. I might try switching things up and see how that one arrow flies. I just like some change every now and then
Contrary to popular belief, you should be shooting a heavier arrow. That being said, most outfitters will not allow you to shoot expandables for a reason. However, should you choose to shoot a fixed blade you should know FOC (front of center) on your arrow, if the 100g is correct, which I would say it will, your fine. However remember that there will be a difference between where your rages and fixed blades hit. You will need to retune the bow, at least adjusting your sight (usually to the left outside 30yds). Your also going to want to lose the blazer vanes, and go with a 4" vane (IMHO), which will offer better control on a fixed blade. The perfect hunting arrow is like arguing what the best self-defense round is. If you ask me, it's a 9mm, minimal recoil, and I can rapid fire a clip in a softball at 10yds. Ask someone else, they want a .45, so they only have to shoot once. The perfect arrow for you, considering kinetic energy, the most overlooked part of arrow consideration (speed kills says everyone is not the only consideration). IMHO you need an arrow that runs 10gpi, add a half inch 30", and keep your 100g if you goto fixed. It will slow very minimally, but your k.e. will increase greatly, if the foc is off, goto 125g. There's not alot of difference in a few grains here or there. I can shoot tennis ball size groups at 50yds using a 400g arrow at 67lbs (Bowtech Binary). IMHO. God Bless.
