to start off, I hate 'sharpening', never been good at it, so this is why I like replaceable blades or I just buy new BH's .... I wanted to resharpen Black Hornets, Exodus, Slick Mag blades Ive used for practice in foam, or touch up new heads ... this is Black Hornets Ive been working on and its driving me nuts .. I bought the black Stay Sharp tool, and the 'sanding' gear from Stay Sharp ... the sheets are 250-1800 grit ... I work in order going from rough to fine .... .. using a black marker to mark the edge, I always end up with a section that just will not 'sharpen' and continually shows the marker .. Ive watched the vids and even called and talked to the guy, following the instructions to a Tee, back and forth, no pressure, measure the distance out as recommended, etc. .... and I still get these spots that just wont clear, one side looks good the other drives me up a wall ... ... ... is there a better method or brand of sharpener that actually works and dosnt take all day ?? what am I missing here.. suggestions ?
I use the stay sharp on exodus, slick tricks and iron wills with excellent results. I’m not sure what you’re doing, maybe seating it into the sharpener offset. Use a sharpie on the blade and it will tell you where your pressure is and isn’t, adjust accordingly then sharpen away.
been there, done that .... both edges also measure the same/left/right edges .. it shouldnt take hours to resharpen BH's .. ... my time is more important than this ... its easier just to buy new ..
I refuse to use the Stay Sharp products because the owner is a d-bag who had to be banned from this forum (and several others) multiple times. Sorry, Ronny boy, you're not getting my money. I have a KME broadhead sharpener and have had great results with it the past couple of seasons. The buck I killed this year was using a Spitfire XXX that I had previously shot a deer with. I disassembled and cleaned the entire head, resharpened the blades, put it back together, and it worked great. https://www.kmesharp.com/broadhead-sharpener.html
I kinda got that feeling about him after speaking with him ... I'll look at the KME brand .. not impressed with the Stay Sharp stuff, seems cheap/cheesy.... he got my $$ once, but never again .....
Are you having the same issue with all of your heads or just some of them? IMO it looks like a manufacturing issue with those heads having high spots on the blades. It's a pretty simple product and process - I can't imagine anything in the sharpener itself is causing your problems.
two different Black Hornets, same thing (only shot into foam and NOT hit by another either).... one side seems fine, the other, well, the pics shows the spot .... that is on both the main blades .... I agree, it SHOULD be a simple process, I'm not applying any pressure as instructed, the board is a vey hard laminate shelving and the 'sandpaper' is from Staysharp, made for metals ... I just dont understand why this happens .... it very well could be the blades, but as you can see, one side cleans up better that the other ... Ive just looked at the KME version, I like the self alignment of it ... I may get one later ... I'm going to try my foam used Exodus blades and see what happens when I get some time after the season closes next weekend ... this Fri/Sat. was a washout for tree sitting ... back at work now .. after working for over an hour on the Black Hornets, I did get them shaving sharp, but it took to long for my liking, and that 'spot' is still there on both main blades ..... did you use a stone, DMT Dia., sandpaper or what with your KME ?? ....
I use a two-sided stone with my KME, one side rough and the other fine. I forget the exact grit. Then I finish them off on some cardboard or the back of a writing pad.
I have the stay sharp sharpeners. I bought them before I found out the owner is a banned member here. I will use them until it is time for something new. I had used the sharpeners on Magnus Black Hornets, Stingers, Slick Tricks and Zwickey broadheads. I have not had the issue you are talking about. I second trying the sharpie trick, uneven pressure could be the cause. Also, from your picture it looks like you could try leaving more blade exposed and not put it so deep into the sharpener. That’s what she said. Sent from my iPhone using Bowhunting.com Forums
the Stay Sharp instructional vids show 5/16" exposed for the Black Hornet main blade, 1/4" for the bleeders ... those in the pic are at the 5/16" measurement, I tried moving it in and then out and didnt change and making sure it was perpendicular to the roller .... I'm guessing the 5/16 is aprox. as a starting point (?) ..... like I said, its easier to just buy new heads .... its crap like this is why Ive always hated sharpening .. I used cereal box cardboard for the stropping and either white or green compound on it ..
I have a KME jig. I did have some learning struggles with it. I went into the process just thinking that I would touch up the blades. They're sent out from the factory as ready to hunt, so I just wanted to sharpen them up a bit more to get them to my expectation of sharpness. That was the wrong mindset. I couldn't ever get the blade set in the jig so the bevel matched perfectly, affected by how deep into the jig I clamped the blade and by the angle adjustment on the bottom of the jig. I would make passes on a 1000 grit stone thinking I would just further touch up the factory edge, but it would just never get any sharper. I finally realized the problem was I wasn't matching the factory bevel precisely and I needed to go in with the mindset that a whole new bevel was going to be applied. I started with 400 stone, then went to 1000 and then a to 3000. I used a leather strop to remove the burr when done with the stones. Doing this meant I could finally get them to shave hair off my arm when done. I also found that setting the blade too deep into the jig would give me an uneven grind along the edge. If I set the blade out quite a bit and used a bit of downward pressure...not a lot, just some... as I drew the jig across the stone, I think it let the blade flex a bit and get an even grind on the entire length of the edge. Sometimes the blade would show a bit of an uneven grind, like there was a high spot or something, but it evens out after a few passes on the 400 grit starting stone.
I started with 250 grit, working to 1800 grit, then finished with the stropping compound/cardboard ... 5 different grits as can be seen in the pic ... if this was easy, everyone would do it .. ..... buying new IS easier .... I have patience to sit 8 hrs in a darn tree, but this sharpening stuff ... pffft .. plain sucks ..
This sharpener won't get it quite was good as stropping, etc, but I have had great results with this sharpener. I initially bought it because I was having a hard time with some Simmons broad heads and their concave design, but then I started using it on my mech blades (that are inherently dull out of the box) and have been very happy with the results! broad heads kill quick and cut very well.
