Removing Arrow Wraps...

I have onestringer wraps...

Watched their video and tried the hair dryer trick to get them off, not very good.

I ended up using my scraper, easier then removing fletching, but still a PIA.

Any hints/tips?

 

i scrape also if you can find blue lawout fluid remover it works great or tylen

 

Google Norway Zip Strip.. that's what you need.

They may even sell them here in the BH.com store as well.

 

Good deal...

I just looked for you. This site has it for $26.99. For comparison, Cabela's has it for $32.99.

Rock on, BH.com!

 

Got one already... That is what I end up using.

Was hoping someone had some whiz bang way of stripping them I was missing.

Rancid Crabtree - help!?

 

The Zip Strip is what I use too

 

I am going to have to look into the zip strip. I spent like an hour the other night removing some damaged fletching from 3 arrows.

 

I've always used an old, dulled razor blade myself. The wraps shouldn't be too difficult to get off. If you use a razor blade, just make sure its dull (old one). I learned the hard way.

 

takes a few minutes per arrow with the wraps, easier then removing the glue from the fletching directly on the arrow, but leaves lines of sticky stuff that needs to be removed

need to clean up the glue and rewrap a few tonight, I am really disapointed in the feathers I was using, they do not hold up at all when compared to 4" vanes

 

A little bit of acetone on a cotton rag will clean up what residue is left.

I know some have qualms with stuff like that on carbon, but the key is not to stick it in a bucket and let it soak overnight -- just wipe the stuff off and you'll have no problems.

 

The Easton tuning guide specifically states not to use acetone or MEK on carbon arrows, just FYI.

 

Doesn't the tuning guide tell you not to use it with the install of nocks and inserts, because it can break them down over time and break down the adhesive?

 

Actually, I think you are right it did specifically state the degrading of the adhesive.

The section I was reading last night was talking about removing the fletching and cleaning/prep for new fletching. I also agree with Greg, as long as you aren't letting it soak it would probably be fine to use a little. Although I would be very careful not to get it around the nock end as it will soak into the cracks and soak in that way. I believe they recommended isopropyl alcohol instead.

 

I guess I need to stop reading arrow tuning guides so late at night.

I think you guys are all right, it basically says don't "soak" it.

"Carefully wipe down just the fletching area of the
shaft with 91% isopropyl alcohol using a clean, white
paper towel. MEK or lacquer thinner is not used
because it is incompatible with the glues used for
attaching the Standard Adapter and with the plastic
materials used in either style of nock."

Seems like they are worried more about the cross contamination into the nock area.

 

So to get back on subject, or at get close to on topic. Do the quickfletch products have adhesive on the inside? Or can you just cut them and peel them off?

I am assuming that the wraps are glued on???

What would be the benifit of a wrap over the quickfletch?

 

Not sure how it would work on wraps but I tried a potato peeler to remove vanes last night and it worked GREAT! Didn't have to worry about gouging the shaft and they only cost a couple of bucks!

 

A potato peeler??????

I just might have to give that a try next time.

 

I thought you were supposed to be soaking them in hot water to remove the fletchings from the arrow.

 

I just wittle em off with a knife, then use acetone sparingly to clean off the glue, then wipe then again with clean rag and acetone!