LOL, was going to say I've seen people use tennis balls on a string, but not punching bags. And looks like you went a bit too far!
since you piqued my curiosity, I started looking around as I have been out of the XJ game for almost 15 years. If I were you (and if I were to buy another XJ, I would probably do this as well) I would take a look at this- https://www.amazon.com/Supreme-Suspensions-Cherokee-Suspension-Adjustable/dp/B00ISB8FJG/ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=2.5"+lift+jeep+xj&qid=1610338849&sr=8-13 and would couple that with the "frequently bought together" and then throw in the extended braided brake lines https://www.amazon.com/Rough-Countr...FM9EMJFJT6D&psc=1&refRID=G1W0THEPJFM9EMJFJT6D for another $60. Everything you need for under $275. Not a bad idea to buy longer shocks too. Supreme also makes a 2"/2"...Never figured out why but some XJs have a slight rake and some do not. My '00 Classic did not have a rake. My '93 Sport did. Maybe that's the difference. Anyway only a $10 price differential and the only difference is the puck height. I put a Supreme system on my 2015 F-150 and it was great. No issues, other than the instructions sucked and I did an extra step that really set me back time-wise but a trip to Autozone to borrow a set of spring compressors and I was back in the game. That was my fault (kind of.) I had a weird experience with their customer service, though. Prior to purchasing, I emailed back and forth with their customer service to ensure the 3.5" in the front would fit a 2015 with stock shocks. They said no problem. Then when I got it, I was having that issue with the front (this is specific to the F150, I am just offering full disclosure on something I ultimately still recommend.) Anyway, as I am describing what is going on, the following conversation occurs (tech's name is fictitious) Tech: "well, first, we don't recommend the 3.5" front lift on the 15+ F150s. It might cause binding." Me: "WTF! First, you advertise it for 2012 - 2016 (current at the time) and I emailed back and forth with you guys on the application. Tech: "who did you speak with?" Me: (going through the emails on my phone) "...Some guy named 'Chris M.' Tech: "Uh, I am Chris M." Anyway, the conversation ended OK with them recognizing in writing that if their product caused damage to the front end it was on them. It did not cause binding although it was damn tight. Again, I still recommend their product and they did stand behind it so there's that. There's a couple very recent negative reviews on their customer service but that seemed to be over the holidays and with C-19, who knows. The quality and fit were really good for the price. Me and my buddy finished the one side in about 5 hours (with screw up) and the second in only 2.
I need to put on new shocks and springs, which is what had me consider doing a lift at all. So, this kit won't work for me. Thanks for the suggestion though. I am looking at doing this 3" lift from BDS. https://www.rockridge4wd.com/i-2125...-kit-for-1984-2001-jeep-cherokee-xj-430h.html
I was looking into a rough country for my wrangler. The price was on cheaper side so peaked my interest. Haven't found much that it's a bad lift but doesn't seem to come with everything needed. I've kinda settled on eventually goin with the Rubicon Express kit. It's little more expensive but comes with everything needed. I'm also only goin with 2.5, all I'm looking for is little extra room for bigger tires and rims. I'm running 31's now on stock suspension and it's pretty tight. Also I'm pretty sure the springs on mine are original stick and they're pretty wore out. So it I'm gonna be changing them I might as well get a little lift. I'm not too concerned with real smooth ride and I'm guessing anything is gonna be smoother than what have. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
I am in the same boat. Pretty sure my shocks and springs are stock. I haven’t had them done and I have put almost 85K on the vehicle since I have had it. Might as well do a little lift since it is the same parts.
I think only thing that's been changed on mine is a previous owner put new shocks on the front. Springs and back shocks looked to have been there for a while. But yea if I'm going to tear everything apart to change leaf springs I'm definitely gonna do a little bit of a lift so don't decide to do it again later haha. And spending the money on new springs might as well is kinda my attitude. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
@S.McArthur how big of a lift did you put on your XJ, did you have to replace breaklines. Some sites I am reading say it is necessary for any lift 3" or bigger, some say it is not necessary.
I have a TJ but did a 4” and had to extend the lines. Partially because I have a sway bar disconnect that lets the axle drop until the control arms stop it. I don’t think you’ll need to extend your lines for a 3”. There’s only 3 spots you’d have to change if you did, the two in the front (one on each side) from the frame to the calipers, and one in the rear from the frame to the T-block on the axle. If rough country didn’t put it in the kit, you probably don’t need them. You also don’t need stainless lines, they are not special as some say; these work fine if you want to change them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IY2CHHK/?tag=wranglerorg-20 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IY2CBTY/?tag=wranglerorg-20 You can also use the stock front lines off a YJ (square headlight wrangler), they are a little longer than the TJ lines and should give and extra 1-2”.
Just for comparison's sake, I called a local 4 x4 shop to see what the price would be on installation of a lift would be. They said the Rough Country 3" would be $730 installed. Rough Country 4" would be$1200 and the BDS 3" $1300. Those were the lifts that they recommended for my vehicle since I am not interested in heavy off-roading. Says something to me about the quality of the two brands with those kind of prices differences. I could DIY the BDS plus by the better jack stands I would need for the price of the RC 3" installed.
Well, it would appears Murphy has decided to bite before I even order parts. I looked at the rear shocks tonight after getting home. I was wanting to see if they were stock mounted into the body or had the after market bushing pin set up. One of the mounting bolts on the rear driver side shock has rusted and broke off. The top of the shock had come loose from the other mounting bolt and is only attached on the axle. The bolt will have to be drilled out and maybe rethreaded.
I had the Rough Country lift installed last Friday. After running into the rust issue on the rear shock I decided it wasn’t worth the hassle. Now I am looking at bigger tires. The tires will need to be done before the end of the year anyway. Probably will put in spacers so I put on wider tires. Currently, it has 225/70R-16 Firestone Destination tires on it. Since I will need bigger rims for a bigger tire, I think I will upgrade to 17” rims. Maybe fender flares after that; I think I found out why Jeeps are a money-sucking rabbit hole. Before and after pics of the lift.
Looks good man. I might haveta end up doin something to mine sooner than later. Was coming home from work other morning and one of the rear shock mounts broke. So waiting on that part to show up so can weld it in. Idk what happened but musta hit something hard at one point cause almost looks like the leaf spring on that side is bent too. So if haveta get new springs might as well get little bit of lift, cost is pretty close to same considering alot of the new parts wouke need for lift kinda need replaced anyway. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Spacers work but you are adding another connection point. You can buy wheels with a different offset that will keep them from rubbing and retain your turning radius. But, you can score some take-off JK wheels cheap and get an adapter/spacer to mount them. Plus, there is a bigger selection of tires in the 17” range. Stay with load range C or D, they will help smooth out the ride, also, you don’t need to put what is written on the side wall for psi. I run 26psi in my 285/75/17 , it’s a weight thing. Jeep is looking good, welcome to the rabbit hole of Jeeps.
Cost being so close is why I lifted mine. I am going to replace the oil filter adapter this weekend and hope that is the easy fix to the slow leak I have. If not, I may have to do the oil pan gasket and rear main seal. Not sure if I will do that myself since it requires dropping the front axle to get the oil pan off on mine.
What oil are you using? Conventional or synthetic? Is it just coming from the rear main seal? If it’s coming from the seal, go back to conventional oil, that might stop the leaking.
