Second thing you'll notice, is what an incredible pain in the ass they are to put together (thunderheads). I can sharpen my fixed blade BH's (wensel woodsman) in about 2 minutes. They don't come "scary" sharp out of the pack, but I can get them that way. I never have to replace blades, and they're $30 for SIX. 5 deer taken with a 52# recurve, this year. 5 pass thrus. How can you beat that?
NOBODY has shaper blades than the Thunderheads do and you can take that to the bank! I too switched to Muzzy after shooting dozens of deer with Thunderheads. Muzzy's are sharper than many out of the box, but I think I could shoot a Thunderhead through a deer and still be about as sharp as a brand new Muzzy. I wish they would put a Trocar tip on Thunderheads because sometimes they slice to well and when a rib is pulled back together by surrounding uncut tissue the hole closes up. With the Trocar tip you bust some of that bone out of there so you still have a good blood trail and the lungs fully deflate right away. This is only an issue if you get a dead center hit on a thick part of the rib, but it has happened to me a few times. However, as mentioned earlier their blade locking system does suck, but the Thunderheads have very good tolerances so they are consistantly good fliers which is a big plus. When the G5's first came out they were pathetically dull, but I have not checked them out since. Sure, if you punch a hole through the boiler room with even a dull broadhead you will kill deer. but I prefer to increase my chances of recovery with super shap broadhead and to get the quickest and most humane kill possible. So to me if a company can't come out with a sharp broadhead from the start I don't care to do business with them. JMO It sounds like you do a great job sharpening your heads GMMAT, but most people don't do as good a job as it appears you do or as good as they think they do. Plus I have yet to come across anyone than can sharpen a broadhead to match a Thunderhead. It would be nice if everyone could sharpen their heads to a true scalple sharpness. I like bigger than a 1" hole (not saying there is anything wrong with that), but those Wensel Woodsman's are bad ass looking heads.
There are a lot of good heads out there and Wasp is one of them. I think Wasp is and has been the most under rated replaceable blade broadhead out there for a long time.
First of all, welcome to the forum! Also, I don't really bother with the brand, so i wouldn't be the person to suggest anything. I just use whatever works. ~ (Nick was watching me when i made this post.)
Slick Tricks will be your friend.... forever. The thickest replaceable blades on the market, and they're sharp!
What is your commission for being such a good salesman? Seriously, both heads seem to be a much better value than what I am shooting right now. And they are probably better heads.
if what I m seeing is correct the ST only come in 4 blade heads. I was hoping to stick with a 3 blade head due to my lower KE.
Thanks for all the input guys. I have been using Thunderheads for a long time aswell, but I'm tierd of buying replacement blades everytime I practice with them and a Thunderhead is not a cut on contact blade which is really what I'm looking for. I was looking for some info on the Nap razorcaps. From the way they look, they seem to be pretty simple to sharpen. I shave with a straight razor and 90% of using a straight razor is keeping it sharp. If I can sharpen a straight razor, these broadheads aren't going to be that difficult. I use stones to do all my sharpening not the things you drag your blades through. The blades on Thunderheads are not thick enought to use a stone to put on a quality edge, and I'm not about to buy something that I have to drag the blades through. I don't like using them and they don't do a very good job. I have used slick tricks some and they are a good broadhead but they have replaceable blades (which I don't particuarly care for), and they do not have a cut on contact tip. Mechanicals are not really an option for me because I shoot 60lbs with a 26.5in draw. Not enough KE to get consistent pass throughs.
FYI, The KME sharpener is a stone system and works great. It's so easy even a dummy like me can get blades really sharp. www.kmesharp.com
I have about 10 stones in my sharpening arsenal, from the most course grit to the very fine grit. Some are waterstones and some are Arkansas stones. I take sharpening very seriously. All my knives can be used to shave with. A sharp knife is always safer than a dull knife, unless it's in the hands of your enemy. I mean no offence, different strokes for different folks.
If you are looking for a good fixed blade COC head that you can sharpen I would look at the Muzzy Phantoms. I use them (the 200 gr) and can get them shaving sharp. You may also want to check these BH's out. Yes, they are very expensive but but they are extremely high quality and I guarantee you will be able to get an extremely close shave right out of the pack. I use the Samurai 200 gr heads and they hold an edge extremely well. I have shot them into the target a couple of times and then checked the edge and you could still shave paper as if they were never used. I did retouch them but that was more for peace of mind than need. http://www.alaskabowhunting.com/Broadheads-C15.aspx
Any of the heads I have mentioned shoot with my FP's out to 50 yds. That's as far as I have shot them to check. I bareshafted the Muzzys out to 30 yds and they hit in line and lower but I think that was more due to the wings and weight on the front and no counter-guidance from the fletching. My arrow speed, depending on bow, is either 233 or 250something (I don't remember). I use 3 4" feathers for fletch.
If you are set on COC heads, you might want to consider Magnus Stingers. Very strong, very sharp....great heads.
