Who here remembers actually dipping arrows? We still have dipping tubes! (add that to our hoarding collection)
I used to help my dad not only dip, but crest arrows. Many hours spent with little jars of paint and some tiny paint brushes. All to make our arrows look pretty. Very manly, you know!
That's a good memory to have JZ. I bet a lot of the youngin's here don't even know what cresting is... and a spliced fletch would really draw a blank. :D Spliced feathers = uber spiffy (back in the day)
I never got into it but my stepdad has/had all the stuff to crest and dip and splice. sent from my samsung note 2
^^^ this I stay clear of the reflective wraps... You can get a dozen standard white 5 inch wraps for 3$ ..if you want nice ones, get a 10in patten that's the same on both ends and cut them in half....runs about 6$ a dozen that way.
haha I was wondering why you quoted it. Read it a couple times to see if it made sense with your response, finally gave up.
Not going to lie, I have no idea what creating is or spliced fletch haha. Guess I'm one of those youngin's on here hahaha
I did three dozen arrows for my boys and I in February. I did wraps and the boys did not want any. I prepped all the shafts using isopropyl to clean and Fast Fletch glue. My vanes stayed on and theres, eh, not so much. Recleaned theirs with acetone and used a different glue (Bohning) and the problem went away. Short answer is your preference. Proper prep and a bit of research and it is a non-issue. Mine sure are perty though.
For carbon shafts I will never fletch an arrow without wraps. I absolutely love them for a few reasons. First, they make my arrow more personal, at least if you get wraps made that are personalized in some way. Second, they make the arrow easier to spot after the shot, which is why most use them. Third, they make re-fletching easy. Simply use a hair dryer and slowly peel the wrap off, they come off so much easier that way. Then use mineral spirits to remove the remaining adhesive. A couple things to think of though, if you have to replace one fletch you usually have to do them all. Not often can you get the fletching off without destroying the wrap. When starting your first fletch (cock vane) make sure you glue it in place directly over the top seam of the wrap. The first time I had used wraps I put that seam between two of the vanes and after a hot summer the wrap actually seemed to shrink and soon the fletching angles were not even. Placing that first fletch over the seam seals it and keeps it from ever shifting.
Here's a few thoughts for using wraps: For's 1) Archery Fashion...they can look good 2) They stand out in the field to help you find your arrow if you use a bright fletch 3) You can examine the look of the blood quicker if you use a certain shade fletch 4) When refletching it can be easy to remove carbon from the arrow scraping off the old fletch and damage the arrow, whereas using a wrap its easier and safer to shave off. (Dont be fooled by thinking that you can always peel a wrap off btw, they stick well and i use a sharp blade to remove them, its generally quicker) Against's 1) Depending on how you like your fletch to stick they can rip off due to ripping the wrap material. If this happens and the wrap is ripped, youll normally have to replace all the fletch and the wrap, rather than just a single. 2) Paying for them (you may be able to find a sign writer and ask for offcuts) 3) FOC loss.....ahh..no....they weigh about 5 grains..if you lost FOC your shaft or head is too light, its not even worth stating as a disadvantage...if its that bad, then go a lighter nock, or put a wrap up front or get a heavier head but if your shaft cant handle 5 grains at the tail change your arrow setup. thats about all i can think of atm
It is very much note worthy to know what an arrow wrap does to FOC, sure there are ways to compensate but knowing you need to is the important part. A 4" wrap will cost you about 1% and a 7" will cost you 2%. Depending on the length and weight of arrow. This will matter to a few. Those that are trying to setup extreme foc arrows and those that need to shoot long shafts due to their draw length. For example, an FMJ 300 at 29" and blazers will only yield a 9% FOC with 100 gr head and no wraps. That is on the low end and this arrow does not need a wrap. Sure,a 125 gr head might be a better fit but if the person already has 20 broadheads laying around in 100 gr,then they need to leave the wraps off or spend money for new broadheads. They could also ditch the blazers and put on feathers and have around 9% with 4" feathers and 7" wraps. So it is worth mentioning
