Is anyone a PSE expert who can walk me through adjusting the DL on my bow and the poundage? The poundage I think I have figured out, I just have to loosen the bottom bolts on the limbs then twist counter clockwise on each limb same # of times. I just need the tools for that. My DL is set at 29", It should be 27" but might be 27.5" as my 27" was measured with wrist release and I am now using a spot hogg 3 finger release. It seems like according to the manual, that you can make minor changes in DL (.5") without a bowpress but for anything longer I will need a bowpress? I know that I stick the big hex wrench in and turn clockwise, below it, I use a star wrench to back it off a bit before turning down the poundage.
Get on PSE's website www.pse-archery.com and download the manual. It has illustrated instructions. Also I am sure there are some you tube vids out there. If I remember right I think that's how I figured my PSE DL changes. And yes the large head bolts where the limb meets the riser is where you adjust poundage. All compounds are the same in that respect. Make sure to turn them all the way in and back out from there. Bows have maximum number of ties they can be loosened. Depending in what year and model evo you have it will be 4,6, or 10
the letters will correspond to a DL in the owners manual. just loosen the DL screws, rotate the module and set it to the correct letter. then set the draw stop to the appropriate letter for your DL. all that info is in the owners manual. then do it to both cams. DW is a little different. you can do ten full turns of the limb bolts to loosen it. each one should move it a few pounds.just make sure to do the same # of turns on each side
Hmm I dont know if I got an old manual or what, but does your user manual show you 3 different ways to adjusting the DL depending on your cam system? I got initially confused as the first part about adjusting DL states "for minor DL changes you will need a bow press"
i dont have a pse anymore but it could just mean if it was a modular based cam and not a rotating module. with the modular based cam you need to press the bow take off the module and put a new module on to change dl. or the mathews you need to put a whole new cam on. but with the newer pse like our DNA you just need to loosen the screws and put it at the proper settings. no bow press required. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCmh1EndMdA here is a link. the 2nd gen posi-lock inner cam is in your DNA cam. so everything applys. really hopes this helps dude
Dang, can't view that on this comptuer. Ill check it out when I go to the MWR, I know I only saw 2 videos on youtube and both were not on DNAs which had different cam system. My user guide strangely doesn't mention anything about DNAs and it lists different ways of changing DLs based on cams, cams they mention are flexible, opti, and inner cam.
in the dna there is the posi lock inner cam. that changes DL that is the rotating module i am talking about. all newer pse's use the inner cam system for DL
Here is a link to the new model PSE just scroll down find your bow and it has all the specs and info you should need. http://tune.pse-archery.com
Thanks! But this only tells me the specs and no directions. = ( I should be fine with DL, now its the poundage adjustment im worried about. Still need to find these tools
All you do for poundage is...when there bottomed out...back the Allen head out counter clockwise the same exact turns for both limbs. You don't have to loosen the limb pockets up. They pivot on there own. The draw length...make sure the inner module on both top & bottom are the same...also the outta stop needs to be on the same letter as the inner module. Hope this helps ya.
Well I definitely adjusted today. DL seems easy enough, just unscrew, screw and hand tighten. Its the poundage that worries me. No meter to tell what poundage it is now, I hand tightened the screw that had to be loosened before adjusting the poundage. Only thing I worry about is that I put the marker of poundage adjustment on the inner circle and outer. Apparently both the inner and outer circle move. Kinda was depending on that on my first turn, so I may have turned one limb more than the other. Anyway to tell? Seems to draw back easier and fine.
I marked my limb bolts with a straight edge, one mark pointing at the other. Anyway, when you put the mod screws back in, be sure you use some blue locktite. I have had those screws come loose on me and it's not exactly fun.
just tighten them all the way...the back them out the same exact amount of turns. Very simple to do...once you tighten the top limb...do the same to the bottom. Then for example...back the top out 2 full turns...then the bottom 2 full turns. On your draw length...if you put your module on letter C...just make sure your draw stop is on letter C as well.
Well, looks like other have chimed in on the DL and DW. I had the same fears of adjusments with my Rally. I came to grips that my DL of 25 in, will lower the poundage... There should be a 2 Spec Cards that came with your bow if you bought it outright from the store or online. But if it didn't the Tune section of the PSE Archery website should tell you your settings. 27.5in DL is F, just make sure both bolts are set to F. As for DW I agree with Bootlegger, I would Turn the bolts all the way to max, then back out slowly, with even turns. After that I would use a tape measure or ruler to measure the gap between the riser and the bolt as well as Tiller measurement to ensure they are the same. GREAT BOW by the way.
PSE told me for every full turn its about 2lbs. I backed my out 2 full turns and when I checked it....it was right at 66lbs.
