Just a report/update. I have been spending a great deal of time behind this bow in the last couple weeks since our weather is finally getting decent. All I can say is that my Rize, once I got it tuned, is proving to be very good. Its taken a bit of experimentation to get it right, as I'm so used to the Bowtech tuning methods. I spent a lot of time bare shaft tuning and on the good evenings, I could shoot a bare shaft out to 25 yards dead on with the other arrows. Broadheads then fell into place perfectly. You ever have a bow and get it tuned and comfortable to the point where you can just "will" arrows into a spot on the target without a lot of effort? Thats where this thing is right now for me. Side notes. I have the Flexis turned out 2 full turns from bottomed out. Doing so made about a 2" impact difference at 20 yards. I recently told everyone about the little rubber dampeners from Prime that go in the yokes. Mine are not holding up and expect them to fall out in the next week or two of shooting. I also put a Bowrattler on this bow and it significantly changed and reduced the sound and vibration. Best 30 dollars I've invested in it. I wasn't impressed with the stock strings though I've definitely seen worse. Nontheless, I ordered a set of 60X string and got them installed before doing the tuning. Really happy with the decision to switch to the Prime.
I got the bowrattler installed on mine as well. I have a suspicion that the strings are the main source of the noise not the cams resonating. It could be a combination of both. I will be ordering string soon but may be after the spring bear in May though before I get them. Started broadhead tuning last night but it got dark before I finished. Things are close though. I still can't decide which I like better the Prime or the Obsession. Definitely like it better than the Halon though.
Word on the street from a lot of the Prime experts are saying a serving diameter increase on the yokes fixes everything. Not sure if the 60X strings use a bit larger diameter serving, or not, but it certainly helped quiet mine down.
that was with my centergy hybrid. my rival has waaayyy more rh thou so right prime would owe me about 2dz arrows
The fix for this is simple. Go to wally world and pick up a pack of spot stickers. Place them 5 inches apart and shoot at different spots,
I use a sharpie and draw 3/4" circles all over my bag. Keeps me from blowing out the target and breaking arrows.
I started a thread the other day on here that has been relatively ignored, but I wanted to share it again with fellow Prime shooters. Been talking to some guys shooting Stokerized Stasis stabs and picked up a virtually new Stasis Edge over on AT for a good price to try out on my RTX Rival for hunting. It is a bit smaller than the carbon Stasis version and arrived on Monday. Today was the first relatively calm day we have had in two weeks, so I could not wait to get outside when I got home from work. Man, that thing makes my Rival just sit there in my hand at anchor. The cool thing is that it is one piece and very adjustable, without having to pay for another mount and stab for a back rig. So far this thing is awesome.....and I use that term sparingly!
I looked at that setup myself, but I jsut can't bring myself to run a sidebar on a hunting setup. Its definitely a nice setup, just not for me
Centergy setup. I have this Centergy shooting pretty good now. Here is the procedure I used. It is set at 61.4 pounds with 28.5 inch cams adjusted to roughly 80-82% letoff. I have it set at roughly 3.75 on the draw stops. I started with eye balling the centershot through the center of the grip, tightened it down and measured it to see what I got, 13/16". Next I stripped 2 1/2 inches of serving off of my down cable so the linkage on my QAD wouldn't be so long. It appears that Prime uses the same exact serving specs on both cables making the serving on the down cable go way down causing excessively long drop away linkage cords. My fingers show roughly how much serving I stripped off. I plumed the bow in the vice and set the arrow 90 degrees to the bow string with the center of the arrow passing through the center of the berger hole. I am using a tied in nock set on the bottom of the nock, no tied in nock set above (pictured three photos below). I ran the Flexis roller guard all the way in and backed it out until I had between 1/16 and 1/8" of vane clearance with the cables. 2 1/2 turns out on the Flexis bolt is where I settled. Next I plumed the bow left to right to set the second axis on my sight. Off to the paper tuner. First shot was a bare shaft, second shot was fletched with Blazer vanes with an aggressive helical. It's rather amazing how well these arrows came out of this bow as these target shafts are way over spined for this bow. They are a 350 deflection cut 27" with 65 grain points. I usually get light nock left tears with these shafts. Not on this day though. Took 3 shots to get it hitting black, this was the next three shots. The bare shaft is grouping with the fletched vanes as well. To get the feel and balance that I want I ended up with no front stabilizer with a B-stinger back bar mount with a 10" B-stinger stabilizer. Currently with no additional weight on the back bar.
The Stasis Edge setup is not really a sidebar in the true sense of the term, as the design is really an SS1 with a pivot point to drop the back end down for better balance. It is so compact that I don't see it as being any more obtrusive than having a 6-8" front stab. It easily fits in my hunting case without the need for quick disconnects like most other back bars require. Thus when I got out to turkey hunt, I won't be fussing around attaching things or having stuff get in the way. To me, it is a win-win and working well for the price.
The Stasis is a great setup. I agree that the stasis or similar hybrid front / rear stabilizer set up or a back bar set up is less clumsy than a 8"+ front stabilizer. I really cannot understand why so many people run front stabilizers on hunting setups. Stabilizers are for balancing your bow. Throwing a front stabilizer on the front of an already top heavy bow doesnt make a whole lot of sense to me. Side weight and back weight makes a bow balance and aim so much better.
I actually just ordered the 12" counter slide from Bstinger to help offset my kingpin. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Scott, Are you normally a 29" DL and as such are confirming that they're drawing long at higher letoff?
Yes, you would need to buy 1/2 inch under your normal draw length if you plan to use 80% or greater letoff.
