Point me to proper bows for critter control

Hi all... I have problems with my garden and ground hogs and other small animals. I know that, especially on a big, wooded semi-rural property like mine, I can only cut their numbers down for so long before more move in, but culling is part of my overall management strategy. Since I'd rather not alarm my neighbors by shooting them with my .22 magnum or potentially kill other animals with poison (I have a soft spot for turkey vultures, go figure), I'd prefer to take up archery, and would really like some recommendations from experienced bowhunters.

I'm female, about 5'5" and sometimes have muscle pain issues which can be serious, so upper body strength can be great one day, lousy the next. I don't have much money to spend, so I'd prefer something under $200 or much less, if possible to fill my needs. I'm hoping that since I'm not expecting to take down deer with this purchase, that maybe that price point isn't unreasonable.

If I get hooked and love it, I may move up to something bigger, but for now, I won't be hunting anything larger than a raccoon, unless any of the coyotes start getting too familiar, but I have the .22 for that. There are simply too many of the groundhogs for me to shoot them all without drawing unwanted attention. I'd also like to put an end to the nightly visits from the raccoons to the garbage can.

I understand what it takes to become a good shot (practice, and from different angles), and that maintenance and knowledge about my weapon are important, so I'd appreciate it if some of you knowledgeable folks can get me pointed in the right direction about which bows - traditional or crossbow - might help me narrow down the items to investigate among the very big sea of choices out there! I don't know much about the features to look for either, although I'm learning a lot already from reading the forums.

Thanks in advance for pointing this girl in the right direction! I've done a lot of searching so far, and I just don't know what I'm looking at or what's best for which purpose. I think that most of what I've seen so far is for much larger game - a Bear Mauler sounds a bit like overkill for a fat little "whistlepig" as they're known in some parts!

 

First off - welcome to the site! We're glad you found us!

I'll try my best to address your questions and hopefully this info can help you make the right decisions.

At your price point of under $200 it's going to be pretty difficult to get another other than a used bow and possibly some used accessories. Crossbows are out of your price range by quite a ways, and depending on where you live may or not be legal. Traditional bows are also probably out of the equation as they take a significantly greater amount of time to become proficient with. So you're looking at a used compound.

When it comes to shooting small game you don't need much draw weight. Given your size and muscle issues you may be able to get away with a youth bow. Something in the 30-40 lbs of draw weight range. That's more than adequate for shooting groundhogs.

In order to make sure you're getting the proper setup you'll want to visit your local bow shop or sporting goods store and have them measure your draw length. They'll be able to show you some available options in new equipment, but it may be out of your price range. Once you figure out what you need for draw length and weight you can begin looking for used gear on various forums, ebay, craigslist, etc.

Before you go shoting anything make sure you have a valid hunting license and that the animals you're intending to hunt are in season. While they may be a nuisance to you, not all animals are legally huntable all the time.

Hope that helps!

 

I'd suggest picking up a decent used women's bow. Check out the classifieds on Archerytalk.com, I guarantee that you can find one there!!

 

Great - thanks for the suggestions and welcome. And I was wondering if I might fit a junior, so I won't exclude those form my searches. I'll figure out where to get measured with a few phone calls.

I found these tips on how to buy a used bow, but is there anything anyone would add to that list, or just like to mention if you don't have time to read the link?

Thanks again - it's always nice to find a forum full of knowledgeable people who are willing to help!

 

That ebay article is spot-on. There's good deals to be had out there, but like anything you need to be careful with what you're buying. Knowing what draw length and draw weight you need is the most important pieces of information to find out. Without that it's like ordering a pair of shoes not knowing what size your feet are. Also, when using ebay make sure you're purchasing from a reputiable person with good feedback. Often times I will not purchase from people with less than 15-20 feedback remarks. I've been burned too many times by newbies who either don't understand or don't care what they're doing.

 

You could get a bear kids bow and take out some ground hogs. I got my girlfriend one she's 5'5 also and she shots them with me if she has the chance to. You can pick them up at walmart for $100 then you will have to get arrows and broadheads also from walmart. I got her the $2 ones with some nap nitros and it all works great. Good luck I hope I have helped you some

 

Diamond razor edge is $329 loaded and ready to shot. You can buy it at cabelas or bass pro but I would recommend you take it to a local archery shop to get it set up to you and get some good instructions on how to shot properly.
I know Justin said it already but please be sure to check into your local laws and fish and game regs first.
I used to put rubber snakes in my garden and it really helped for a while but the effect wears off eventually too.
good luck

 

The Sportsman's Guide has some compounds around $200..They also have some crossbows around and under $200...Not really sure how good they are as I don't know anyone with a cheap compound or crossbow; but it could work for a small game weapon.

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/browse/archery-cross-bows.aspx?c=8&s=261&ipp=96&ra=false

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/browse/archery-compound.aspx?c=8&s=270

 

Wow - thank you everyone for all of the valuable information and feedback. I'm really big on researching new things to really understand them, but I felt really overwhelmed with all the terminology and whatnot.

All of the advice has been good, but I think the best was to go to a local archery shop, which I did and just got back! The guy who owns the place is about my age and measured my draw (27"), showed me every part on the bow and explained how they work, showed me different features on different models, and didn't treat me like I couldn't understand physics - he didn't talk down to me at all and made me feel really comfortable.

He explained adjustments and weight and he carefully showed me how to use a bow, slowly working me into the process step by step. Honestly, those first few pulls of the bow were tough and had me thinking this wasn't for me. After some encouragement and help with my posture, I got very comfortable with pulling back on the bow, which felt pretty good. It was cool the way I improved so much and so fast after just a few pulls and corrections to my movements, because I started to feel like this is something I'm really going to enjoy.

He had me try out several bows and I could tell that I definitely had specific grip preferences. I liked the way the Hoyt felt in my left hand (I'm a righty) very much. At that point, I hadn't discussed what I wanted to pay, but next, he showed me a used Hoyt that is about 5 years old and all aluminum for $180.

At first, I thought being heavier might not be as nice, but then I firgured it could also be an advantage (I can't throw plastic darts to save my life). He's selling it for a friend of his and knows the history of it. I went back and forth between it and the newer one a few times and I think I have found my bow!

He's going to hold it for me. I didn't wake up this morning with the intention of making an investment in anything, so I have to sit down and make sure I won't cut myself short. With the tune up and release and four used arrows, it's about $235 out the door plus tax. I can practice with the old arrows for now and buy the dozen for $85 when I'm not quite so strapped (just had a truck repair, etc). It already has some extras like a counterweight but I figure it's better to start simple and I can add goodies later on. I'll enjoy them more as I do, and understand how and why they work as I practice. I also like that the cams are metal on this older one. Something that really stuck out in the ebay article is that buying used is best done through a reputable dealer, and that made a ton of sense to me. Even more so now that I understand compound bows much better.

After that, I asked to see some higher end ones or other recommendations he might make to someone like me, so I checked out several more. I still think that used Hoyt is a perfect started bow. I was pulling 34 pounds on it, and somewhat comfortably after a while.

And yes, folks, I will definitely follow all local ordinances and licensing. In my county, I can shoot groundhogs year round and I don't need a license for those (whoopee!! ), but there is a season for raccoons. This means I'll have lots of practice on groundhogs by then

Something else I can say is that as a science nerd, I really, really like the compound bow design. We talked about cam design and how speed is improved and all kinds of nerdy things. And I like that I'm going to support a local place. My purchase will also mean I can shoot there for free and get help with shooting. I'm sure I'll get started and learn some bad habits or find that I'm not getting the results I want, so having a teacher and the ability to go for free and learn and practice is pretty awesome. I think this is something I'm really going to enjoy.

So... wow! I can't believe how much I learned in one afternoon! I can tell my right shoulder is going to be sore tomorrow, but I know once I build up those muscles I should be just fine.

Thanks again for the welcome and all of the tips! I'm not sure I would have gone to this place if you guys hadn't encouraged me to do so. It was definitely worth the trip and I'm really excited about a new and useful hobby!

 

The Bear Apprentice would be a good choice as well. It is very adjustable so it could be adjusted to fit your draw length and it will go low enough in lbs. that my 7 year old son can pull. The lbs. can increase up to 50 lbs. as well. You can get one ready to hunt for $279.

http://www.cabelas.com/youth-small-...-F5D2-DF11-82EF-001B21631C34&mr:referralID=NA

It looks as if there are better prices to be had than $280, but that is a ballpark. Good luck and have fun.

 

You can't go wrong with a Hoyt! lol

 

Shirley, you can't go wrong with a Hoyt. They have been one of the best manufacturers for many years and their bows are known to be the toughest on the market. It's also good that you found a good bow shop to work with. Best of luck!

 

Free range time is hard to beat. I've never been anywhere that offered that!

 

Come on over, I won't charge you a penny. If I go across the street into the neighbors yard, I got 60 yards lol.

 

Thanks! I'm excited to have a shop to work with as well, and also glad to support a local business. I live in a small town in an otherwise rural area, so with Walmart, it can be hard to still find places like this with the owners who take so much pride in it and are good at what they do. A few greenhouses around here like that still, but most other places can't compete with Walmart.

Thanks for that link, but now that I've gone in person and felt bows, I know for sure that I need to know exactly what I'm getting and how it feels. The Bear didn't seem to fit my grip like the Hoyt did, and I have a feeling that will make a big difference in how much I enjoy this. Regardless, thanks for the link because it's always good to have resources to check things out.

It turns out we have a bunch of regulations about crossbows in my state, and they can only be used for hunting under special times, not part of the regular bow or firearms seasons, so I'd rather just go with a bow. I'm curious now about what makes them so different that they're classified so differently, though!

I was wondering about that, and that seemed like a really nice perk. I have tons of space (acres) to practice on, but getting feedback and direction from someone with his level of experience and his very comfortable style of teaching (this guy is seriously amazing - I wasn't a bit nervous, and here I was in a totally unfamiliar situation, doing something I've never done that required stepping outside of my comfort zone) to help me learn from the beginning without getting into bad habits seems like a real advantage.

And I while have the space around here to practice, it won't be so easy to use in the winter with all the snow we get, and his small range is indoors. It's a small town and this guy seems way more into developing loyalty and trust rather than making a quick buck. How often do any of us get to do business with people like that?

I also really don't get out of the house much (work at home) so the social aspect of having the range to go to is appealing. Just a break from being in my own head and space so much can be a really welcome thing.

I think it's something like this one, but I'm guessing modified with longer limbs, because the Rintec specs say it only goes to 26" and I looked at the adjustment thing on that and saw higher numbers and was pretty sure it was set to 27". The cams look the same, though, and the metal sight is different. He said he'll show me how to adjust that later. This guy seems to know how to teach in steps and let it sink in before moving on. Anyway, something else I like about this is that most of the parts and accessories on it are metal, not plastic.

So yeah... really glad I found you folks and helped me get off to a fast start. Now that I've been through the basics with the local guy, I've managed to Google more details about the cam physics and all kinds of other stuff. I'm kind of old school in some ways though, and know that cool technology still can't help me much if I don't practice and work on the skills! We'll see if I am as enthusiastic after my first range day, or even tomorrow when I wake up with a really sore shoulder!

Thanks again!

 

That's cool Shirley, good luck with the new toy!
Being able to shoot in your backyard is a huge advantage. Get a decent target and shoot a few arrows a day and build the muscles up, don't over-do it.
It's alot of fun and can be addicting.
Wait until you first draw back on one of those hogs, I bet your heart is gonna be pumpin!

 

You asked the why there is such a difference in regulations concerning crossbows and the answer is they hold an arrow in a cocked position. When hunting, that gives a crossbow an advantage in that the hunter does not have to move at all to draw the bow. They also have the advantage of shooting with 150 to over 200 lbs. of draw weight, while a compound is usually anywhere from 40 to 80 lbs. at the very top. Interesting enough though that the crossbow doesn't really shoot any faster than most compounds-that's always baffled me. You sound like you know physics a lot better than me, maybe you could explain it lol.

My dad shoots a crossbow because he has a bad arm and I can shoot my compound just as accurately and at greater distances than he can the crossbow. And the compound is a lot quieter. When hunting (with the quality bows made today), quietness and accuracy are more important than speed.

 

I totally know what you're saying about overdoing it - I have fibromyalgia and can really screw myself up for a long time if I am not careful!

And seriously... I could go shoot one of those hogs with the .22 mag any time I wanted (even though it would create attention from neighbors I don't want) but I already can feel inside that using the bow will be much more satisfying! It's weird because years ago, a much younger friend and I were talking about hunting, and I said something about a shot gun and he said "I always pictured you more as a bow hunter" and that always stuck with me. Now I feel it.

I guess I like the idea that I can draw a bow and get a job done without turning heads or worrying about people walking their dogs on the side of the road getting weirded out. We've had some cases of people moving "out to the country" and then complaining about the farmers, the odors, etc., like in many other places, so anything I can do in stealth mode, the better.

Plus, I've been considering chickens or small amounts of other livestock and haven't worked out a way I'd feel comfortable with to make the necessary slaughter after a year or two of eggs (I could not put a warm neck in my hand and break it without a lot of stress to me and the bird, and probably an injured bird instead of killed) so I can see where a bow, skillfully applied, could have many practical uses. And that's been the one big hurdle for me to jump into raising chickens, waterfoul or geese: how to cull quickly and without a lot of commotion.

In that light, it just seems even more like a wise investment, not just a hobby with side benefits. And I have and know how to use a pressure canner, so a chicken in every pot (er, jar) is something I'd know how to handle as well!

So FEB, you mentioned decent targets. I grew up around a .22 and coffee cans on posts, which won't work for this. I've seen hay or straw bale targets (but straw is hard to come by around here, and I'd like to avoid it for reasons too complicated to explain, so hay is a better option for me) but the guy at the archery place said to turn the hay bale in a different direction so the arrows don't go to deep. It's late and my Polish blood is coming out, so I can't quite remember what he meant. Something about the grain of the way the grass is stacked, but I can't remember which he said was better for not ruining the arrow than another or why.

Ideas, or better suggestions for throwing together cheap targets?

 

Hey, thanks, clee, you must have replied while I was lazily responding

Wow - that is quite a draw weight (something that would have meant nothing to me this morning LOL) for those crossbows. I live in NY, and apparently, the new regs don't allow crossbows to be used in regular bow hunting season for people with disabilities or over 70. I guess I can see why if it's a device that can be set as ready to draw, and with that kind of force.

I have to admit that when the guy in the shop today was talking about torque, speed or force, it felt good to not have my eyes glaze over or a bunch of questions marks dance over my head! I'm 40 now, but only really tackled the physics and math that scared the eff out of me my whole life in the last few years. If I can do it, ANYONE can do it! Ok, maybe not my mom... LOL I guess anyone determined enough, maybe. A good physics book and a good teacher can make it all simple and obvious, and relate it all to things we do everyday. A good into physics text book isn't more than an inch or so thick, and has lots of pictures, and stories that relate to everyday life. I wish physics could be taught to everyone in the simple ways i got to learn it, even though I wasn't a kid anymore.

Chemistry is another story... blargghhhh I hope I never have to deal with that again! The basics are great to know, but a whole year of chem is a whole bunch of details that don't apply to anything but labs unless you are really going to be a chemist! I like the mechanical stuff, thanks!

I need to study up more on how crossbows and compounds work to understand the speed differences, but put simply, speed, no matter how it is generated, is a function of force and gravity (at least here on Earth LOL). You get more speed if you have more force, period. Torque is another story... I tried to explain that to a friend a few days ago who couldn't understand why using an electric screwdriver was different than using an electric drill to penetrate wood. The way I put it was that the little wimpy electric drill's motor could not put up as much resistance to the wood as a more powerful electric drill, which could plug along at the same speed and without her applying pressure (aka with more torque) than the little electric screwdriver which would turn, but would slow down as the wood got harder, and require her to apply more pressure instead of the drill. I don't know if that exactly explains torque, but it's how I understand it in practical application, between being trained and having to do things on my own.

On another note, anyone who thinks they can't move around deer (which I guess the crossbow eliminates) hasn't spent enough time around deer. You can make plenty of movements, over plenty of time around deer, it's just a matter of how you move and how their eyes are places when the movements are made. I've had plenty approach me over the years, out of curiosity. They're easy kill and trusting of intruders who don't move too quickly. With exceptions, of course.

I've got me, myself, and I to get things done around here, so understanding things that make life easier and acquiring tools that make life easier without a massive investment make me a happy girl. Seems like a good bow and developed skills could be a worthwhile investment alongside my other plans.

Enjoyment and practical use - sounds like my favorite combination of things! Now I've got to go learn about those crossbows just to understand all of the possibilities better... I sure drive myself nuts with learning, sometimes!

 

Check with your state's game and fish agency. Many states allow depredation hunts for nuisance animals.

Good luck.

Welcome to the brotherhood, sister!