Well I fletched up 3 arrows with 5 inch feathers. They were a pain to fletch with my little fletching jig. I have no problem fletching the 4 inch plastic vanes for my regular arrows, but fletching the 5 inch feathers was tough. They were shield cut feathers and I had contact issues using my off-set right fletching jig. Do I need 5 inch feathers or are 4 inch feathers ok? Do I need shield cut or can I get "straight" cut feathers...do they perform the same? Any suggestions? I ended up shooting one of the arrows that I had applied the feathers to....it flew GREAT. It seemed like the arrow "floated" a little better and provided more stability as compared to my plastic vanes.
By "contact" do you mean in the jig? If so don't worry about it. That's the great thing about feathers they're very forgiving. I doubt you "need" 5" feathers. If yor bow is in tune and the arrows are spined correctly 4" parabolics would probably be fine. But those 5" Shield cuts just look too cool! I've used them for years. I even put them on some carbon arras I was shooting out of my 101st Airborne. You should have heard the owner of the shop we go to howl about them hitting the rest and deflecting the arrow. When I asked him, "Didn't you say this rest would drop out of the way before the flecthing gets there?" There was the classic deer in the head lights stare. ROTFLMAO
I mean I am having trouble getting good contact from the base of the feathers to my arrows, meaning some parts of the base of the feathers are not getting a good solid glue bond with my arrows. I had to do some crazy stuff to get the middle section to contact the arrow because of the shield cut. The 5 inch feathers LOOK awesome! I am thinking 4 inch feathers that are cut a little straighter will give me the positive contact I need to get a good bond between the base of the feathers and my arrows. Thanks carp!
If your using carbon arrows with high FOC then 4" feathers will be ok thats all I use. If your arrows are wood or Alumn. then 5" feathers are best.
Thank you Kanga, I really appreciate the advice. I am using 400 Beman Camo Hunters at 9.1gpi, with a 120 grain field point. The arrows are cut at 27.5 inches. I am new to the recurve bow thing as of a month or so ago. I am not sure if I need to up my broadhead weight or what....I did notice an improvement in the stability of my arrow when I added the feathers as compared to the plastic vanes. I am going to order some 4 inch feathers.
Depending on draw weight and lenght and if the shelf is center cut you could very well be over spined with the 27.5" arrow. I use full lenght GT 3555, 100gr brass insert, 2 lenghts of line trimmer cord ( for added weight) and 125gr head for a FOC of about 24% My other set up is the same arrow without the line trimmer cord and a 220gr head for an FOC of 38% Both set ups fly great out of my 55lb @ 27" bow, have even used the same arrows out of the 66lb limbs I made for Will with no adverse effect. Oh feathers are more forgiving for trad gear as the will fold up when going over the shelf plastic will cause the arrow to bounce when they hit the shelf.
I'm with Russ on this one , he convinced me of full length GT 3555's with brass inserts , 125grn BH and 3 x 4" feathers . I did not think it would stabilise my arrows enough , but again Russ proved me wrong . I use the same arrows for my 51# Bogan and my 57# Yarra .
The draw weight is 55# and the draw length is 28 ( I feel I would like to have another inch of draw, but hey, this is the only recurve I have so I will make do). I have no idea if the shelf is "center cut", I really do not. Here is the bow I am using...Howatt X-200. If you think I am overspined, do I move "down" to 340's or up to 500's? I am a little confused, yet excited to learn about this technical stuff. I came home and shot a few groups of the three arrows I rigged with feathers, and was still impressed with their forgiveness. I shot better.
You should be able to work with the 400's. You mention that you would like to have another inch of draw length, what do you draw now? All bows are measured at 28" AMO. If the bow is 55# @ 28" you can add or subtract appox 3lbs per inch up or down from the 28" AMO. ie: 29" draw would be 58#, 27" draw would be 52#. Your bow can be drawn well past 32" without harm to the bow. We'll talk about "stacking" at a later date. Your bow is cut to center or also known as center shot.
Just get the bohning fletch tape and stop worrying about it. You'll have a "why in the world would I ever use glue again" moment.
To be honest , I've just gone back to using glue after using tape for 12 months . Yes tape is quicker and more convenient , but I get more helical from using glue and a better contact with my 4"feather base IMO . Bitzenberger , 3 x 4"feathers RW/Right helical and Saunders fletching cement , great combo IMO .
If you don't want to use 5" try 4 fletch 4" and see how that works. Are you using a Bitz fletcher? If so off mset the clamp as much as possible with the helical and that will help streigthen the arrow quicker yet. Are you shooting off the shelf? Have you built it out at all, I used a tooth pick under the leather on the shelf and also at the center so to have 2 small point for the arrow to contact. GOOD SHOOTING.
