Last night I turned my bow up a bit. It was set on 60 pounds and I increased it 3 full turns. I do not have a pull gauge so I don't know exactly what it went to, and I was extremely careful to make sure I kept the cams in sync. No matter what I did I could not get this to change. I backed off the weight and moved the rest to the point of fletching / cable contact. I made sure to keep my grip loose so torquing wasn't an issue. Also, I have about 3 pages worth of holes exactly like this, so this tear is very consistent. z7x, 28 draw 60 pounds + 3 turns, - 1 turn during tuning Arrow: Easton flatline 340, 8.2 gpi, 363 grains (includes 100 grain field point) After turning the bow up, the 20 yard pin was still on the money but the 30 yard pin was actually pretty high which didn't make much sense. Anyways, any opinions would be much appreciated.
My first thoughts on larger tears are fletching contact. First thing I would try is a bare shaft - hopefully you have one, or even one with beat up fletching that you can remove the fletchings. Do same process with bare shaft - if same results you can at least rule out any fletching contact. Second - most say a right tear is over-spined arrow (too stiff)...I don't buy that typically as I always seem to be able to make any over-spined arrow work fine. It's underspined that can cause problems. What kind of rest are you using? What kind of release? D-loop or just attach to string?
Well unfortunately I don't have a bare shaft. These arrows are brand new. However, there is no witness to any contact. I don't really buy the spine either. 340 should be just fine for a 70 pound bow. I have a ripcord code red rest and I do have a D-loop with a cobra release (the expensive one that swivels, can't think of the name). To me it's very odd. I want to increase my weight from 60 pounds (60-70 pound bow) but the paper is telling me I need to come down.
Actually I believe this right tear (if you are right handed) means you should either increase draw weight and/or increase tip weight...if the tear is a result of overly-spined arrow. Again - find it hard to believe that big of tear from just arrow spine. Tear is also a little high - meaning you should bring down your nock point just slightly. I would crank your bow up, and focus on making sure your grip hand/wrist is perfectly lined up on grip - make sure elbow slightly bent, and grip wrist bent to align the back of your hand parallel with your arrow during full draw. And to double check arrow/fletching clearance you could apply powder or chalk to parts rest that might be contacting arrow and see if arrow does remove the powder/chalk after shot. I had a similar right tear recently with my drop-a-way...could not figure it out. Removed rest and went to a prong style rest and paper tuned perfect bullet wholes in only 4 shots. Make sure you launcher cord is attached correctly and not "pulling" too hard on your cables. Could always try another rest to rule out if it's a rest issue or not. If same tear - it could be coming down to a grip issue. Again...I'm just throwing out what has worked for me...somebody else may have some better advice. Good Luck!
I'll try increasing the weight and see if that helps first. Oh and put the rest back where it was with plenty of clearance. If that doesn't help I'll check clearances but I think you'll find by increasing the weight it will fix. it.
Not trying to be smart but what way did you move your rest? with that tear you should be moving micro to the left.. Don't make big moves little is always better..
Well since you just keep asking I'll go ahead and admit it. I completely read that wrong and for whatever reason was tuning it as a left tear. I've never had a problem paper tuning before, especially on this bow, which is why it was so odd. Thanks for the help bz and stik, wait, not you stik. I was just wanting to leave it alone lol.
Just a couple of troubleshooting thoughts. Make sure your target is far enough back from the paper so that the tear is not affected by the arrow hitting the target. Double check your centershot. If your centershot is good you won't get a tear that significant. You have another problem. Try a different method of tuning i.e. walk back, bare shaft, etc. See if it shows you the same result. Some of those tears appear to show the nock point being a little bit off as well. I'm basing that on the fact some of the tears appear to be slightly angled. As always, refer to the Easton tuning guide for help. http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf Good luck.
are you using quick spins? if you are they tend to tear the paper more. I personally do not paper tune I really think its like to make sure evry blade of grass is exactly the same. you can be there for ever not one of your arrows will shot exactly the same as the others. windage and elevation should be your biggest concern. If point hits the spot it doesnt matter what the fletching do after that. Most paper tunning is done within feet of the bow but it may not straighten out until a couple of yards. good luck
Play with a Hooter Shooter for an afternoon and you'll see that this just isn't so. You're bow is capable of shooting 2 shots in a row EXACTLY the same. It's the shooter that is the weak link... As always with tuning, if moving or adjusting things one way isn't working, do the opposite. I'd crank the poundage up and adjust things left after verifying 100% for sure that there is no fletching contact. If things are still off, look to the lean of the cam / twist of the limb.
This is what I have found. If you go out and BH tune and have to move the opposite to bare shaft tune, I find it to be a cam lean. Can drive you nuts.
Thanks for all your help guys. It looks as though it was an operator error as I simply read the wrong paragraph (tear right vs. tear left). I'll get it fixed right up this weekend. I do think paper tuning is very useful though. You want the arrows to fly, well, perfect. Knowing they're coming out of the bow perfectly is essentially step one. Until you know that, everything that happens after doesn't really matter. You can make all the down range changes you want, but if the arrow isn't coming out right, those changes will be in vein. So once the arrows are coming out of the bow right, then check the tune at distance... and so forth.
Well, I fixed the original error (operator) and had this thing shooting bullets within 2 minutes no matter what the weight was.
