I would have to agree tfox! french tuning to put it on the paper and then paper tuning and yoke tuning has made it so much easier Hutch
IMHO "and everyone is different" the draw cycle is what sells Elite bows...People rave about the huge valley & rock hard back wall but for me that's a negative not a positive...Sure they feel good in the shop when you draw them back and think "Man I could hold this all day"...But for me the huge valley & high letoff when combined with the hard wall hurts my overall accuracy. I prefer a little less letoff and a bit of give in the back wall, it helps me hold on target better..With the high letoff and hard wall I float WAY to much and can't shoot them consistently at longer range.
Yeah everyone is different. I noticed my accuracy improve quite a bit over my Hoyt Vector. Just a pleasure to shoot this bow.
We all have different styles so we have to find what works for us ... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
We also need to learn what we like and what we need. Learning how draw length affects our accuracy and how much as little as an 1/8" can change it. Sometimes when someone says, I just shoot this bow so well and not that one will come down to draw length or something else like being setup properly. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
I don't feel there is a bow I can't shoot accurately. I may like one more than another and have to do less to make it fit me but I feel I can make them all perform for me. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
I am happy to report that after fine tuning my french tune I shot bullet holes through paper at several distances and my bareshaft also hit its spot. I think I am in good shape.
Sounds good. Broadhead flight should be awesone as well. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
I threw on a KillZone practice head and shot it for kicks and it flew great. The real test would be a longer distance. Guess I'm ready to fling some arrows at a thunderchicken here in a few weeks. Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Love talking about this stuff and learning new ideas.
OK quick question. I was able to paper tune my bow yesterday. I had everything straight down the center via french tune. So it had a tear. I did the yoke tune an it brought it to center but now it is tearing straight down . So my question is do I still keep doing the yoke tune or do I need to move my d-loop up. I'm using the rip cord code red fall away rest. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Country_ Boy
OK thanks. An that's what I thought an I did move my loop up an I had to move it almost 1/2" to 3/4" up. Does that seem a bit much. An now my arrow sits at an angle. I moved my rest up an back to where I had it. Jus seeing if did something wrong. When I did the yoke tune I only had to put 1.5 turns to the one side to get it to center up. Country_ Boy
How do broadheads impact in relation to the fieldpoints. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
I have not shot with it broadheads yet I am shooting eastons 400 with 100 gr tips not sure if that will make any difference Country_ Boy
Chances are j daddy is correct and the issue is with timing or rotation. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
OK thanks guys I will give them a look at when I get back home from work in a few weeks. Thanks again Country_ Boy
Ok, I'm a bit miffed here, bear with me please. I set up my new bow / rest a couple weeks ago. Was shooting great on paper, and on target. I was using a sight off another bow as I waited on my new one to arrive. New sight arrives and I set out to dial it in. Get it all on and had to adjust my windage what seemed to be an awful lot left, to the point where the sight bar was only half way into the sight housing. With it set up that way I was driving tacks to 50+yds so I let it be.... but it got to bugging me so I sent a few more shots through paper last night. Slight left tear, barely noticable really but it was there. If I move the rest to compensate it throws off centershot. What am I missing?
