The best I have found for vertical is creep tuning which is basically tuning the vertical impact to be forgiving to creeping or collapsing on a shot. Sometimes we don't hold into the wall with the same pressure so you want the bow to be forgiving to that. You're just adjusting the timing so the impact is the same hard into the wall or soft into the wall. Not really something that can be done with a 1 cam. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Broadheads should also tell you if the rest is positioned correctly vertically, as well as paper if checked at multiple distances. Bareshaft will too if you have great form and grip. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Great post TFOX! Yoke tuning is one thing I think often gets over looked. With today's bow and arrow options there is really no reason you cannot shoot true center shot. When I get to work this morning I get to rebuild an Alphamax 35 with those oh so forgiving XTR cams:p This one is on the #2 cam and A setting which makes it even a little worse. But, the Hoyts are always super responsive to the yoke tuning.
My alphamax 35 tuned very easy. Now, the maxxis is a different story. It had a high tear no matter what adjustments I made. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
I'm sure this AM will be a shooter. That short valley from the XTR's would be a back tension shooting dream. I have heard the Maxxis was tough but honestly have not had the chance to play with one.
No, my shop just picked them up but I'm not a fan of no yoke systems. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
I've owned a few Elites, tuned a few more and owned/tuned a number of other brands with pretty much the same cam design "2 track binary"....What ya need to know on them????
Well yes & no....This is ONE of the reasons I hate 2 track cams... If you can't get one to tune here are your options in a nutshell, Move your rest...If that doesn't work within reason you move on to the next...Swap the limbs, sometimes on some bows if you take the limbs off and flip them around "bottom to the top, top to the bottom" then it'll fix some of the issues at times, that has more to do with a weak limb tip causing bad lean on one of the cams...Next option, try new limbs, yes that sucks...Pretty much the last option you have to play with, Check the cam spacers, then play with cam spacer placement and spacer thickness. That's pretty much your options on a yoke less design like the Elite...Now with that said, most of the time if your having issues and your know your arrow spine is right for your bow "arrow spine means WAY more than most people know", one other thing to look at on an Elite is your grip...That banana shaped grip on their bows is a love/hate thing, you can either shoot them or you cant and that grip has caused more people issues than any other EXCEPT the Mathews wood grip "which also sucks even though I like Mathews bows" .... I have other issues with Elite "and other 2 track bows" that I dislike but from a tuning standpoint that's one group of things I do not like at all.
You can also remove some of the side load torque by offsetting the cable slide.. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Well now it is getting to the point of inventing a problem that doesn't exist. My bow has shot very good. I was merely only interested in this yoke tuning thing which I will do if I have a bow with a yoke again. It was great info Tfox. Sure I want a tuned bow and will do most things to get there as I enjoy the technical aspect. When you are talking about switching limbs and all kinds of other crap that is where I draw the line and instead I would just get rid of the bow if there really was some major shooting issue.
Ok. Once I get the french tune done I'll shot it through paper and see where I am at. Then decide what the step will be if anything.
Spine becomes more critical as well and you can clean up some tear by playing with weaker or stiffer spined arrows. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Yeah I have a longer arrow just for that reason as instead of changing the spine of the arrow I made it a little stiffer by going longer to get it in. But I was using other methods before.
There was a time I wouldn't have had an issue with owning a yoke less bow but anymore, I just don't want to mess with them and I'm too anal about my tune to own one.
Right now the trade off of the smoothness of the draw and awesome wall is a trade off I'm willing to deal with. But I'll fart around with it and get it as good as I can.
