After you've tried everything else and the problem remains, go back and try changing arrow spine. I had a similar issue earlier this year where I couldn't get my 400 spine arrows to broadhead tune for turkey season after it tuned just fine last fall. All my measurements were within specifications and I even tried turning my draw weight down below 60#. Nothing worked until I tried a 340 spine arrow and after that it tuned with just a couple adjustments. My point is that all the specs/charts/previous experience /etc. said a 400 spine arrow would work but for some reason, it didn't.
Yea i got a couple 340 spine arrows from a friend and theyre shooting bullet holes for me. Im going to go through the tuning again and see if i get any different results
Went back to my pro shop over the weekend and tried a ton of different arrows. Also tried my arrows with different tip weights. We were getting alot of random tears and seemed like a form issue but after he watched for awhile said it wasnt a form issue. Got the tears down to a small tail left tear but its looking like it is the same issue BB4TW had and im going to have to go to a 340 spine.....have a dozen 400 spine da torch's i got not long ago which sucks lol
Try turning the arrow with the nock in and shoot regardless of fletch alignment. It a takes time for each arrow but shows the dynamic spine of the arrow. When u reflects put the cock vane there to help identify. It usually helps!
Do this only if wont be any contact by turning fletch. Won't help any if there's any fletch hitting somewhere .
According to the paper, the arrows are slightly right, if I seeing the paper correctly. The setup your using is a 64# pound bow with 400 spine arrows, that spine is a little light for that poundage. Typically, if your around the 65# range you need to be shooting about 350 spine arrows. The right tear in the paper is showing this or contact with the fletching as others have already mentioned. If it was a left tear, then you would have a too spiff an arrow. If you were already shooting 350 spine arrows, I would be moving the rest over to the right slightly, but I would fix the spine issue first. Just a thought.
Length of arrow also effects spine not just Draw weight. They're tested at 28". So if your arrows are cut longer than they'll have a weaker spine, Shorter and they will be stiffer. I do agree though it sounds like you've narrowed it down to spine.
Its weird though because according to the beman and easton charts im where i should be. Ive tried turning the poundage down to 55# and still getting the same tear. Chart says at 27" draw i should be fine the other goes by arrow length and 26" arrow says spine should be fine as well. I know whats on the charts doesnt always hold true. I will be getting a few 340 spine arrows made for me this weekend ill post what the results are. I hope this is my problems its been drivin me crazy lol
Well I know I shoot 65# at 27.5 draw and my arrow spines are 340's with Easton FMJ's 5mm version. That's where I should be from all the calculations. So, I would think your going to be in the same ball park as I am. Just thinking out loud.
No luck with the 340 spine arrows. Even tried a couple different flecthing on 340 and 400 spine arrows with no change in the tail left tear. Not really sure where to go from here
Another item, if you are using a d-loop, make sure that it's not pinching the nock at full draw, there should be about an 1/8" inch on the top for space and I have been putting a slight knot on the bottom of the nock (Levi Morgan special there) to stop that. Also, make sure the nock isn't too tight on the string, you should be able to nock the arrow and hold it horizontal and tap the string with your finger and it will come off, otherwise it should stay on, but allow the string to spin freely. Otherwise at this point there's a tuning issue with the bow itself or your torquing the bow when you shoot. We'll need to verify any cam lean, though it doesn't have yoke system and has a two-track system this shouldn't be an issue (but potentially could be), then get the bow on a draw table and verify the sync on the cams. Once that's done, we'll need to go through and check draw length, stops, etc.. Then start over with leveling the bow, then arrow and then sights. Also, stick with the 340 spine arrows.
Well in my experience consistent results = bow issue. Inconsistent results = shooter issue. Reading through this thread it sure sounds like you are getting inconsistent results; once you posted the 340's were bullet holes, then you posted it went from a right tear to a left tear. I say screw on a fixed blade broadhead and shoot a few and report your results. Any more once I make certain a bow is in spec after installing new strings, I barehsaft/walk back tune consecutively then broadhead tune. I cannot tell you the last time I bothered with paper.
I never said anything about a right tear at anytime, its been a tail left tear always and no matter what we changed it stays that same tear. The only inconsistent results were when i first got ahold of a few 340 spine arrows from a friend which were about 5inches too long and i was outside at home when i paper tuned. I shouldnt have used those results i may have jumped the gun with those. Spent 5 or 6 hours working on it with elites tech support on the phone. Seen some improvement when the tech suggested swapping the top and bottom limbs. That combined with a helical 3" fletch on my same arrows has the tear done to about 3/4" or so. 340 spine same setup were no better. Also swapped the spacers on the cams from one side to the other but seen no improvement with that. Elite tech says the only other thing he can see it being is a bad limb so is sending a replacement set to the shop
Weather was real crappy when i got home today so will check how arrows are flying at distance next day i get a chance. I just hope to see any improvement from what i been getting.
Yea he mentioned may have to do that. Shots some arrows today. No improvement so just have to wait for the limbs
