I was reading a post recently, where the poster said they adjust their rest to achieve good holes through paper. This got my brain wheel(s??). turning. If you have center shot set, and you're getting a bad tear......don't you need to leave center shot alone and address the real issue? There could be a REALLY simple answer for this. I'm just not aware of it.
I won't claim to be a master tuner but when I paper tune I also move the rest. The movements are very small. In certain case I will move the nocking point. The reason rest moves work is that center shot sets static center of arrow flight. Which will always be close. But when the arrow is flexing in flight the center can be different. Also string travel, possible torque, string twist all become involed when paper tuning. The only person that can paper tune is the shooter it can shoot bullets for me than tear horrible for you. Center shot is the static starting place of tuning. If anyone sees something that is incorrect or disagrees please say so.
Yes and no. It is easiest to adjust the rest and that is what most folks do and it still gives you a good flying arrow. You can also address the issue, bad tear, by doing one or more other things such as: move nock point up/down adjust arrow length adjust tip/rear weight adjust DW Personally, as you know, I like to leave centershot alone but, I will, on occasion, move it no more than a 1/16. That can be a much "finer" adjustment than fooling with any of the "weights". For most applications I do not need that "fine" of an adjustment, though. It seems to be most beneficial if I am striving for better long range accuracy. I will move the rest up or down instead of re-doing the nock point. I think you get maximum efficiency/forgiveness out of the bow/arrow combo when centershot is centershot but, if only moving the rest a small bit off of CS, we are probably not talking a big loss.
I move my rest in small increments, but never too much...I don't have too..just the tiny adjustment always seems to work...also, I think a lot of times bows are not set at true centershot to begin with..I know that has been the case with me several times...
Well, that depends on how bad the tear is. Wouldn't it be better to have a perfectly flying arrow off of a bow that's just a tick off of centershot than to have a poorly flying one that isn't? Sometimes, you just can't get the perfect spine that will create that perfect hole w/out spending money that's just not needed.
I'm not condemning moving the rest, Mo. I'm saying......there are other avenues. Adjusting draw weight is free. But, I suppose additional tip weights/cutting arrows could be a cost factor.
I didn't mean to imply (if I did) there was any condemnation. You're exactly right, there are indeed other avenues. They just aren't always the best option, IMO. Sometimes it's not even as simple as draw weight, tip weight, FOC or anything simple. Sometimes it means new arrows, and I've seen sometimes moving the rest is the only thing that works. Again, IMO it depends, at least to some degree, how bad the tear is. If I can move my rest 1/32 or 1/16 inch and shoot a perfect hole.....I'm perfectly happy and pounding the X ring. Long range drift isn't an issue, either. Now, if I have to move the rest more than say 3/32 inch......I've gotta change some other things first. In my experience, tuning a bow just isn't as black and white as it should be. The biggest factor here that simply cannot be predicted is the person shooting the bow. If we were tuning a bow from a shooting machine "the book" would certainly work. That's not to say that that same book isn't going to get us results, because it will. I've just found it to not be that black and white.
Let me ask a fair question, then. Would moving your rest be your 1st line of defense? Or, would you try to address the real issue? Assuming your center shot is correct....... If you have a left or right tear.....do you not have a spine issue? (I hope I asked that right....because I'm really curious about this).
Given that the last bow (of mine) that I set up I spent 2 days tearing apart and rebuilding(flipping limbs, twisting cables and shimming cams) to get the thing to shoot at centershot, I'd say that I'll go to extremes on my stuff. However, I'm not going to spend 2 days getting someone else's bow to shoot straight, I just don't have the time for it so they generally get small rest adjustment. If I've got the time I'll put it through the shooting machine and adjust the cam timing and everything else to get it supertuned but there's no way I could do that all the time.
Is it my first line of defense.......well......That's a good question actually. No, it usually isn't. But again, it depends on the variables. I'll fiddle with the draw weight a couple pounds, maybe play with the field point weight some.......and see if that changes things. In my experience, though....it rarely does. I'll also address whether the shooter is torquing the bow or not, and try to alleviate that as well.
Gmmat, now you got me really thinking. The more I think about it I would say that a lot of the tuning guides turn to rest movements to simplify the process. You got me thinking so hard that I know I'll be playing with my bow a lot this week since rest movements for paper tuning are changed even more if you broadhead tune with the same method.
