I'm having trouble getting my bow tuned. I have an old PSE Stingray with QAD w/T1 launcher arm. I'm getting a tail-right tear. At 2yds it is subtle, but at 5yds it gets worse and I haven't gone any further. Here is what I tried: 1. Adjusted fletching rotation until no clearance problems were evident on launcher arm or cables - used foot powder on launcher, etc. Left the powder on for all subsequent steps. 2. I moved the arrow rest to the left until it was obvious that it was way off. 1/4" left of the string. Do I need to move in smaller increments? I think I was moving ~1/32" at a time. I don't think my shooting form is an issue.
Try dropping your draw weight by 5lbs. Did you make any recent changes? New arrows or heads? Or are you just tuning for the first time? Also how big is the tear at 5yds? Do you get the same tear with multiple arrows? If you moved 1/4" left and the tear is the same it's probably not the rest.
Start with the basics 1. Is the center shot correct? 2. Is the timing on the qad correct? 3. Do you have cam lean? 4. Is the timing correct on the string and cables. 5. Is your spine on the arrow correct and what grain of tip are you shooting? Pm me if you have questions and don't decrease pounds that only fixes left tare not right. Either way its not the correct way to fix it
Although unlikely, it's still a possibility that the right tear is related to a slightly underspined arrow. It takes 2 minutes to adjust draw weight up or down. Why not try? If it doesn't help - turn it back up.
I think there are four vital things that need to be checked prior to doing anything with poundage. Spine of the arrows needs to be verified, form needs to be good, QAD rest MUST be properly timed, and above all else the bow must be tuned. Still have the rubber grip on that stingray? Take that torque inducing thing off, wrap your riser in hockey tape and shoot it like that. Some bad advice being thrown about....
Thanks for all the replies. I have had this bow tuned before. It was shooting bullet holes out to 10 yds. The reason I started messing with my setup is because I started ripping up the felt on the launcher arm with my fletching. This started happening out of the blue. Once I found a fletching rotation that fixed the clearance issue, I haven't been able to get the bulletholes back. I put on a new sight and I'm guessing something shook loose somehow since I haven't changed my arrows, nock or rest. The rest comes up around 1.5" from full draw. The bow has a wood grip. I don't like the shape of it, but I'm able to reduce/eliminate bow torque by following my shot sequence. Also, I'm right handed, if that matters. I never sprayed the cables with powder, I only visually checked for cable clearance. Does it need to be checked with powder? I did spray the arrow shelf area and that never showed any contact. Thanks for all the help.
You act like draw weight is this terribly complicated setting that should never be messed with. How is it bad advice to adjust something (that's easily reversible mind you) to see if that helps? I would assume that if the OP is paper tuning and knows how to check for clearance with powder, the he's probably looked into spine of his arrows, clearance, etc. (Which we can now see he has) Anyway I suggested lowering draw weight because its a quick and easy way to see if the tear is spine related. Again, I said its unlikely but possible that a right tear for a right handed archer could be an underspined arrow. An arrow may have the correct spine on paper but if its right at the upper limit for that poundage, decreasing poundage will make the arrow act stiffer and may fix the tear. Also, how can the bow already be "properly tuned" If that's what the op is doing right now? I'm giving bad advice? Your statement doesn't even make sense.
Have you ever heard of timing a bow? Adjusting poundage at this point would be putting a bandaid on the issue Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2
On the rest there will be two horizontal white lines. One on the body of the rest, the other on the launcher assembly. While at full draw these lines MUST come together and form one solid line. If they are misaligned the bow will not tune. I would start there. Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2
Lowering the lbs will only make the paper tare farther to the right. That's common since. Raising the lbs will make a right tare straighten out. More than likely the rest is out of time. Is the rest cable tied in to the cables or is it screwed together with the two plastic washers they send with the rest? I would want it tied into the cable so that it can't slide up and cause timing issues.
Right. Because every bow setup is the same so there's only one possible explanation for each type of tear. /sarcasm Yes. Explain how timing (cam timing) affects left/right arrow flight. Most resources I've read say timing issues cause up or down tears. I never said adjusting poundage was a fix-all. It's simply a step that can be taken to further diagnose the issue and in some rare cases may fix the issue. I guess some people are set in their ways and asking for them to have an open mind is just way too much or too difficult for some. Good luck OP. /unsubscribed.
Cam Lean(also in timing a cam) causes some pretty severe left and right tears. An Open mind? its tuning a bow, not abortion. There is really only one way to do it correctly. Start at the root of all problems and explore out. /This is a bowhunting website, not twitter/facebook/ wherever you got this thing from.
I have a question for the paper tune folks: Aren’t arrows supposed to flex in flight; the so called archers paradox? If true, is 2 yards the point where they are supposed to stop flexing? I guess I'm respectfully asking, because if the arrow is flexing, wouldn't a tear of some sort be expected? Also, if true wouldn't moving the paper to, say 3 yards produce a different kind of tear?
It should flex (pictures exaggerate it a great deal) but the tail should stay behind the head, not wave from side to side. 3ft, 6ft and 12ft. Those would be the distances I check with paper. The fletching starts getting control after much farther.
Thanks Bruce. After some additional reading, I learned that arrow shot with a release should flex in the vertical axis only.
