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okay, got the bow, now the arrows..... what next

Discussion in 'Tech Talk' started by brian923, Oct 1, 2009.

  1. brian923

    brian923 Weekend Warrior

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    some problems encountered. need some help!!!

    check out post #8. that explains the problems... thanks guys.....


    origonal post:

    hey guys, i got a bow, havent shot it yet, but i got it. its a PSE bow madness xs. i hear tons of great stuff about them, cant wait to try it out. this afternoon, i stopped by ****s sporting (i guess it dosent let you type the word **** ;) ) goods, and picked up a set of 12 Easton Gamegetters, aluminum xx75's. i picked up the 340 grain series. i got some 100 grain field points and am hoping to get out shooting tommarow. i was going to go with some RAGE 2 blade mechanical BH's, now i know you either love them or hate them. are 100 grain tips to light? should i try something heavier? my draw length is around 70 #'s. was hoping to make it out to cabelas tommarow cause i have a gift card!!!!! wanting to see what some experianced hunters had to say, so's i didnt have to take the salesmans word on it. thanks guys, brian.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2009
  2. Live2Draw

    Live2Draw Die Hard Bowhunter

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    100 grains will do you just fine!!
    Nice set up, like the goin with aluminum thing, dont see that too much.
    Only advice i have is start close! 10 yards or so. and get things worked out there before you move back.
    Btw. I have put some absolutly massive holes in deer with those things.
     
  3. ventvisor

    ventvisor Weekend Warrior

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    Hey man...congrats on the Bow. I just picked up mine last week. I got a Fred Bear. Anyway, 100 grain is fairly normal, and should work fine for you. For hunting tips, i picked up some G5 strikers. But i have heard good things about the rages your looking at. As for your draw length...I think you ment weight. Draw length will be 24ish to 30" most likely and your dra weight would be around 70#...assuming that's what limbs you have. Hope that helps some...there's alot of good info on here, and good luck with your "hunting"
     
  4. Deerslayer7

    Deerslayer7 Weekend Warrior

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    yup....i have a 70# draw weight.....with a 31' arrow. Yeah before you shoot them aluminum arrows, you should check into some nice carbons....but its your choice, my dad still shoots them. Great bow....I was looking into getting one of these...

    I shoot 3 blade rages, and love them. are you using a release? there also 100 grain BH as well...

    good luck this year bud..hope that bow works out for ya.
     
  5. Trueburton

    Trueburton Newb

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    yeah i would definately use a release with a loop. Helps with your consistency.
     
  6. brian923

    brian923 Weekend Warrior

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    sooo.. i got out today, it was raining, but i was able to shoot from under my aunts deck. had to do some major tuning to the bow. the guy who, supposedly set it up for me did an awful job. but, i got it all figured out, and its shooting well for me. now, i just have to get bater, and then i can go hit the stand. thanks for everything guys, brian.

    ill get some pics up once i can find that blasted camera!!!

    also, i tied my own string loop today.... that was fun pulling it back the first time, but it lasted good. i like it because i can see how it would be more consistant, and save my string from unwanted wear and tear.

    hey, how accurate shold i expect these easton game getters to be? i know i have to get better myself, but whats a usual group at 20, or 30 yards? im coming form rifels that shoot 1/2" at 100 yards, so i know i still have a way to go. but this is FUN!!!! i love it. totally hooked. i actually have one of my gun for sale her on the classifieds to try to fund some more arrow making stuff and things like that.
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2009
  7. Kanga

    Kanga Weekend Warrior

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    1" per 10 yards is an axceptable group so at 20 yds your group should be 2" and 3" at 30 yards.
     
  8. brian923

    brian923 Weekend Warrior

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    found some problems...

    Well, I was looking over my bow tonight, to make sure it was all dried off from the earlier shooting, and found some points were the fletching is contacting the bow accessories. :(

    I have a Velocity Drop-away rest from quality archery desings, named, ultra rest hunter. I see that there are orange marks on the sides that hold the arrow from falling left or right. I have also noticed that the top plastic part, that makes it an inclosed rest when in its upright position, seems to be low enough to hit the top fletching. I am putting the arrow in with the yellow fletch pointing up, and the two orange fletches to the bottom. Why is the fletching contacting the rest? Should I shoot the arrow with the single yellow flecht pointing down?

    I have also seen that the yellow fletch is also hitting the bottom of my sight. I had to lower the sight because the 40 yard pin was hitting the target supper low at 10 yards! I'm scared to take it back to the shop I bought it at! He said I was already to go shoot! What should I do! I don't really have the money to pay someone to fix it? I was on such a high, but have been dragged straight to the bottom. Thanks guys, brian :(
     
  9. ventvisor

    ventvisor Weekend Warrior

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    If the shop you bought it is any good, they should be willing to help you out for no cost. When i played paintball and had problems the proshop always helped out at little to no cost. Specially if it's a new product. I'd go back and at least see what they say about it. It might be an easy fix...something loose, something no set just right, ect. Good luck man...and keep that high going! I'm actually going to my local proshop today, to get my bow dialed in, on the indoor range, sense it's cold, raining, and windy here! Anyway, good luck
     
  10. Trueburton

    Trueburton Newb

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    not real familiar with the drop away rest but i believe the cock feather should be down like any other rest.
     
  11. brian923

    brian923 Weekend Warrior

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    i called the guy today, adn he said he was to busy. he told me that plastic vanes are two harsh on those rest and that i should switch to feathers...... this makes no sense to me... i thought that a drop away, drops away to make NO contact with the fletching whatso ever.... am i correct, or would switching to feathers solve my problem.....

    and what should i do about the sight being to low..... should i try lowering my nock point to get the arrow pointing a little higher up???

    thanks guys, brian..
     
  12. Live2Draw

    Live2Draw Die Hard Bowhunter

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    he is an idiot.
    Check your knocking point. Not sure what kinda bow you have, but there will be a suggested start for that. +/- above level
    Next you will want to come to your rest. if your sight is that far down, then chances are your rest needs to come up a bit, and you can move your site back up, there should be no chance of contact on your sight window
    I am not too familiar with that rest, but it sounds like it is needing to drop a little faster, so you could shorten your rope to the rest by 1/8" and start there. Not sure what the feather orientation is suposed to be on that one, Mine is c0ck feather up. that might be cock feather down. not sure
    either way, your sight that low says that something is outta wack with your nocking point and your rest adjustment
    I am sure one of the better tuning guys could chip in and help yah out more, I am just throwin my thoughts out there
    oh and vanes are not to harsh, hence the idiot statement
     
  13. bowtechdude

    bowtechdude Weekend Warrior

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    First of all the guy that sold you the bow sounds like a prick!!! Anyways on a better note: How far down are your actual pins themselves? Are they bottomed out? If not, instead of moving your whole housing, just try moving your pins down all the way, and if it has 4 pins, then just use your bottom pin for 40yds, that is when you are ready to shoot that far, which will be a while!

    If you move your lowest pin 1/8in up from the bottom of the sight housing, it will help you alot....If you have already done that then I would say to move your knocking point....remember tho...just a little at a time tho!

    I have one more word of advice for you and that is don't shoot more poundage than you can comfortably pull back....here is a simple test to check if u are overbowed from the experts! Draw your bow and if your bow hand raaises up...you are then overbowed! Or if you cant hold your bow steady at full draw for 1 min...then you are overbowed!

    A straight arrow is better than a fast one!:)
     
  14. brian923

    brian923 Weekend Warrior

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    Well, for one he is. Two I think I figured out my problem with the rest.... I think...

    Went on to their website and it states.... The rest reacts to the string tied to the rear buss string... THERE IS NO STRING ON MY BOW FOR THIS... I believe this will make all the differance. I just hope I don't have to buy the kit they sell. I hope I can just get some bowstring material. I wanted to go shooting some more on monday, but well see if I can get something done at another shop. Thanks guys. Brian


    should i just cut my losses and go with a wisker bisquit, or try to get the fall away rest i have to work??

    if it makes ay differeance, i am shooting easton xx75 gamegetters with 100 grain tips. i measured the complete arrow with my powder scale and got 511.4-514.6 grains between all 12 arrows. i dont know if this makes a differacne with the type of rest i use.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2009
  15. Live2Draw

    Live2Draw Die Hard Bowhunter

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    O_o
    WHAt?! Post a pic of your rest and bow man.....what kind of bow are you shooting?
    are you saying there is no string coming off the rest? or there is no bus cable (cause thats not really possible)
    i wanna see lol
     
  16. brian923

    brian923 Weekend Warrior

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    here you go buddy. ask and ye shall recieve:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    notice the missing string that is sopposed to go from the rest to the buss sting...

    i love the bow. i think once i get it set up, it'll kill lots of animals. i think i am going to replace the rest. i have been reading that some people cant get it to work for them either. and they have ALL the parts. it seems to be to slow for fast bows.

    im thinking.... wisker bisquit... seem to be a widly used rest, and resonably priced. what do you guys suggest?

    what do you guys think??
     
  17. Live2Draw

    Live2Draw Die Hard Bowhunter

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    I would GO for A kazaway Forest Vital Pro
    Or a limbdriver
    they are the fastest dropaways on the market, and the Vital gear is A true full contain

    your rest should work fine though!! just need to get it set up
    this is what it should look like! notice the rope. This is pretty much release loop material. that will be served into your cable, or attached to a slide with the built in provisions
     
  18. konrad

    konrad Weekend Warrior

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    http://www.eastonarchery.com/products/selection

    It is possible the arrows you selected are under-spined for your draw length and bow weight. The Easton Technical web-site’s shaft selector is an excellent program with no down loads.

    Don’t let ‘em give you grief about alloy shafts.

    When someone can produce an arrow as tough, with as close a manufacture’s tolerances, for as little money, then I’ll go BACK to carbon composite.
     
  19. brian923

    brian923 Weekend Warrior

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    never mind, i was reading and i did just get stupid lucky. i went to the above easton sight and downloaded there desktop chart. its really nice. it says that i need the arrows that i have. fewh. that was a lucky buy.

    thanks guys. as to the rest problem, iam going to go to ****s in mchenry, and going to see f the guy can help me at all. if we cant get the rest working, im just going to go with the wisker biscuit. i have herd that these are good rest, and dont have any mechanical pieces or operations to go wrong. thanks for everything, and ill keep you all updated. brian
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2009

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