This is the thing that I think gets missed on. It entirely depends on the type of "bad hit". There is are lots of variables at play that will make the choice of head better for a specific hit. There is a valid arguement that on hits back further than you intended, a large cutting mechanical is going to damage more internal tissues, causing quicker blood loss and killing the animal faster. On shoulder hits, I will not argue that strong fixed heads are superior. So pick your poison. I want to say it was Justin, a long time ago, made the statement that building arrow/head combination for the majority of your hits on deer is better than building an arrow for the 5% of the times it isn't what you intended. That rings true to me. I rarely hit the entry side shoulder, maybe 3-4 times in my life I have. The rest of the time its either double lunged/heart of back. I'll take the mechanical all day long for that.
Gee, I've never seen this discussion before. Anyway, I'm off to start a thread about how heavy my arrow should be to shoot whitetails.
I have some X23 2314s that I use for indoor target shooting. They're not long, but they have great girth. That's what really matters anyway.
I shot 2413's for years before carbon arrows/Goldtip hit the market ... killed many deer with them using Thunderheads and Muzzy's ... have shot Goldtip ever since they came out waaaaaay back when ....
I'm same boat... except the old venerable 2117 XX78 Super Slams. Out of a killer Golden Eagle bow with the steel teardrop cables. all 41 inches of it. haha. Killed plenty with that old thing when I first got started. I too shot Gold Tips when they first came out. I still have a couple of them laying around somewhere. Can even see the tiny spine label they printed on them.
yup, I shot the Golden Eagles for years, till they closed down, from their beginning to their end ...started out with 2216's/2117s, but went to the 2413's and an over draw for speed ,,, also some 2315's for a bit ... then like I said, GT's hit the market, the first internal component carbon, and I'm still shooting them ... hell, I still have some of the older 75/95's and 55/75's someplace ... Ive still got some original ACC's too, killed some big hogs with those and 100 gr T-Heads ...however, I see no need to ever change from GT's ..
Hhhmmmm to this subject I took a shot on a late season buck last year. Had 100g G5. On a bolt. Now it was a 40 yard shot . Last line on my scope and a distance I've taken deer at in the past. Just as I squeezed off the shot He took a hard turn away from me and I thought I'd missed.snow on the ground and time to watch him as he walked away slowly. I looked for the bolt run through snow, went to his tracks and followed them over a hundred yards . Slow walk and not a speck of blood. No bolt either. Thought for sure I'd end up finding it in a tire sometime. Well apparently It was a hit.. because I found the bolt while working in the woods today. No where near where I'd tracked him. There had been no sign of a hit, no cut hair,blood. The bolt was in great shape but you could just barely see a tiny bit of dried meat or fat in the broad head and discolored smear stained vanes. After sitting in the snow all winter I was surprised to see that. I have no idea where I could have hit him and show zero sign in snow. It could have slid in along the ribs working it's way out at some later time. That would have explained why I could not find any sign it hit the snow. So...hhhmmmm. I have no idea if he survived the winter. He did survive long enough to drop it 200 yrds in the opposite direction of where I had tracked him in the snow .
For indoor target shooting I have X7 2613's. They're very long (uncut) had the largest girth with 200 grain tip and are black, if you know what I mean .....
The water cooler has a dozen thread subjects more interesting and less predictable than this one. And everyone knows that you can only ethically kill deer with a solid fixed BH, on a 651+ grain arrow with a hand calculated FOC of 19.3% or higher, driven by an 80+ lbs bow, at a minimum DL of no less than 29.55".
The broadhead doesn’t matter, both types are good. As long as they don’t come out the end of a crossbow /s Sent from my iPhone using Bowhunting.com Forums
