Here's the problem, I have a mission ballistic and 55 pounds of draw and a 26 inch beman hunter 340 and no matter what I do I can not get them to fly true CLOSE but not true, I have a micro tune shakey hunter for a rest and my arrows fishtail no contact any place and its not bad but I want them to fly straight! any idea what may be wrong oh 100 gr field tip.
Well it looks like you might have the wrong spine arrow. Im not 100% on this but it looks like you should be shooting a .500 not a .340 Maybe someone can confirm this for me.
340 seems awful stiff for that setup. While there's no harm in using a stiffer spined arrow, it will not produce optimum results. Looking at Beman's selection charts online (and making an assumption about your DL based on arrow length) it looks like Beman recommends a 500 or possibly 400 arrow. I personally wouldn't drop to 500 spine but 400 may produce better flight characteristics. http://beman.com/wp-content/uploads/ShaftSelector_Beman.pdf
Yes definitely need to go down in spine. I used to shoot that, you can use anywhere from a 0.480 spine or 0.500 spine.
Your arrow spine has nothing to do with this one. Nothing at all. The arrow is stiffer than you have to have, I'll give it that but, that not going to cause it to fish tail. I'll bet it has a lot to do with bow timing or cam lean. Check your timing first. There should be timing marks. I you aren't familiar, take it to a shop. You will need a bow press and knowledge of what cable to twist to get the desired results.
Its your timing (and string twist), cam lean, rest tune, arrow stiffness. Go to your pro shop and start over. It wont take but an hour or so to fix this. As for the spine either would be better depending on the head you are shooting; target vs hunting. I was shooting the Beeman 340 out of a 70# 30.5 draw. It was right on the border between 340/300 and with field tips it was just fine but when I shot fixed heads it was a mess. Went to 300 and all went perfect for both. Start with a tune from scratch just like you got a new bow but with the correct arrow spine.
Alright thanks guys, I was thinking spine to stiff to, I just bought the bow and using the arrows from my old set up from a martin bow and I've been out of archery tune myself for about 6 years and been a bowhunter for 20 years before that and this problem has been irritating me badly, hey thanks again for your replies.
Be careful with the advise you receive on threads like this....it can have you going in several directions at once...and reading some of the above...the wrong direction. Start at the beginning.....some things that are specific to the Mission Ballistic, they have AVS cams which have adjustable mods that adjust the draw length and also weight...lets start there. Make sure both top and bottom mods match and they where not switched out buy some goof ball that doesnt know much. Refer to your manual for the correct matching size. Then measure/ adjust your tiller but making sure your even top and bottom. Next move onto your nocking point and arrow rest.....set/tie your nocking point about a 16th of an inch above level. Then set your rest at 13/16 Now you need to change arrows, your way overspined. .500 spine with 100 grain heads or...I think better still would .400 spine with 125 to 150 up front..... Now you have a solid foundation to build/tune the bow on......
Sorry sticks but an overspined arrow to this degree can have a bad kick when leaving the bow, especially when the rest is a fallaway that falls early and gives no direction and guidance to the arrow. Timing and cam lean are valid points and do need to be checked. You can even cheat some spine issues with the yoke system/cam lean and remove some of the kick but it is still an issue that needs to be fixed. sent from my samsung note 2
