i just recently i saw an advertisement for this "nufletch" product that allows you to replace bad vanes pretty much instantly. Kinda curious if anyone uses this and what the quality on it is. it looks pretty slick, but i dunno if its worth it. Heres the website if you wanna check em out. http://nufletch.com/
I didn't have time to look all through the website, so this may be addressed there, but I'd wonder how much it adds in weight to the tail of the arrow.
something like 65 grains i think and that seems like alot in the rear of the arrow . what changes would need to be done up front to make it fly and would it be worth it?
I wonder if that is 65 total. (Vanes, adapter pc, adapter pc insert, nock) 65 ain't all that bad if that's the case. Heck, the Blazers are 18 gr of it, the nock another 9 or so. front end inserts are usually 30 I think. That would lead me to believe that the it's just insert peice at 65, cause it's certainly not at 9.
Interesting concept, it would make a difference in arrow spine in a big way, would make it so you could shoot a lighter spine because the weight towards the rear of the arrow would stiffen the spine sigificantly, plus cutting 3" off of the arrow would also "stiffen" it a good bit. It looks like I could drop to a .400 spine w/ this system rather than the .340 spine I've been shooting, but it dropped my FOC from 14.4% to 9.6%.
JZ has a small little review at the following link: http://www.bowhunting.com/blog/post/2010/01/19/10-Best-Bowhunting-Products-for-2010.aspx
RARELY do I see something in the compound realm that impresses me. But, this is one. What's not to like? Mitigate the spine reaction by shooting a heavier tip.....of leaving your arrows long(er). You'd probably be surprised at how WEAK an arrow you'd have to shoot......because less of the actual shaft would be flexing. No fletching jig required. No adhesives. I'd buy a little tube of loc-tite and let 'er rip.
It doesn't look nearly as cool as feather fletchings :D Does it take bushings? If not, now when you robin hood, or almost robin hood, you not only destroy an arrow but you also destroy this thing too. Yeah, I know, don't shoot groups, but, checking tune, tuning, checking form, etc., at distance almost demands groups. It looks like a cool thing but if you ever wanted to change your fletching configuration then I am guessing you would have to buy new/different ones. It will probably be beneficial to the guys that use one arrow configuration and don't change but I can't see myself ever using it.
I was thinking it would act kinda like the Super Unibushings from Easton and help save arrows. I enjoy fletching too much to go to this though.
That was an appealing thing also. i dont know how many times ive put my arrows to close together and split my shaft. I would think with this the worst it would do is graze off of it unless its a direct impact.
They look pretty slick, I guess??? But $40 bucks for 3 seems a little steep to me!!! I'll just keep fletching.
I got a sample of these at the KINSEYS dealer show. In concept I like it in actual application I am up in the air. What it says you do is cut the last three inches of the arrow off glue un the threaded bushing to screw in the rear attachment that weighs 60 grains. It looks like a rear of a good set of darts. I am sure that it was based on. it is then a snap to replace. but I have a concern with the amount of weight it adds on the rear of the arrow.
Which can easily be mitigated by more tip weight (which is a GOOD thing!). 3" of arrow is +/- 25gr. (avg). 3 Blazers weigh 25gr. You're gonna have to figure in +/-17gr. for an insert, also. But.....in the end, how much weight are we really talking about? 25gr (add)?
Pass. I still enjoy fletching arrows be it new or repair. I'm never short just one arrow and if we're busting nocks, I can see busting those things as well. They also don't allow for wraps. I'll take wraps and fletching my own arrows any day. Like the Turbonock, FOBs, it's just hard to beat a near perfect system as standard glue fletch arrow building is.
Simple. Just wrap it below the nufletch. Same result....except you'd never have to change your wrap (when you re-fletched).
Alright, I'm resurrecting this thread to see if anyone has used these yet? I'd like to hear what you think.
