I'm a little perplexed here. I was doing a quick tune of my bow after putting a new string on. No matter how much up/down I moved my rest, I could not get my bare shaft to keep from hitting nock high. I stopped when the bareshaft hits with the fletched shaft, but its still a bit nock high. Is there something else out of whack? Bow is a 07 allegiance, my little timing dots on the cams are both even, I'm not sure what else to check. Thanks
Might be an inconsistant spine on that particular shaft. One area/side could be stiffer/weaker than the the rest of the shaft. If the reaction of the arrow changes by rotating the nock then that would be my guess. A method for checking spine consistancy on an arrow is rotating the nock 90 degrees, shoot through paper, rotate 90, shott through paper again and so on. If you were shooting bullet holes or nock high/low/left/right then you should get the same tear with each 90 degree rotation. That would indicate a consistant spine around shaft. If the tear changes with the nock rotation then you likely have an inconsistant spine. The better quality the shaft, the more likely you will get consistant spine which, for me, is the most important aspect of the shaft. I try and make sure that the stiffest part of the spine on each of my hunting arrows is at 0 degrees. Not really needed but, it's what I do. It is easy for me to do because I have a spine checker.
Thanks Bruce, I will check that this evening. If that works, it will be bittersweet. Yay, it's fixed, but boo, I would expect more out of GT pro hunters.
May not be bittersweet, it could just be that shaft. I have heard different things on the spine consistancy of the GT's but, even if it is an issue, you can get the weakest/stiffest parts of each shaft set to the same location, 0 or 180 would likely work out best, and then they should all shoot the same, at least at hunting distances.
Other things to think about......after turning that nock, and assuming that doesn't fix it. Tiller settings. This will often clean that type of tear up. Timing. Just because the dots are lined up at rest, doesn't mean the bow is timed. Shot a couple of shots from the front of the valley, and then a couple from the back of the valley pulling hard into the peg. Does your point of impact change?
UPDATE: 07 allegiance octane hostage pro rest GT pro hunter arrows. Rotated nocks...no change Shot from a soft wall, and pulling hard- no change Checked tiller-maybe a 1/32" difference ATA-33 3/16" (I think 33 1/4" is factory) BH-7 1/4" (from low point of grip to string) One last thing, I do have an extra 50 gr behind a 125 gr pts if that is making it dip forward? I'm shooting at only about 12-14 yds
Can you check the timing at full draw? I agree with Matt in that even if the dots are lined up at rest doesn't mean the cams are at the same rotation at full draw. I know that is the case with my allegiance. Dots were good at rest but, at full draw, I had to twist one of the cables to get things timed correctly.
2nd UPDATE Before I read your post Bruce I kept tweaking around moving both loop and rest up & down, and I got it better, but still not perfect. Had the GF look at me at full draw, says the bottom string stop on the module is touching the sting and the top one isn't, by she says 1/16" - 1/8". So that looks like my problem. Now to figure out which cables to twist/untwist. OK took one twist out and evened up the cams. It's dark now, I'll shoot tomorrow.
